This is a Russel brand (Edlebrock) braided steel cable. The bend looks too sharp to me and it is just loose and resting on the knuckle. This is the only way to route though. Is it safe to do this?
Your pic is a little blurry, but it looks like it is fastened securely?
If so, the only other thought might be to enclose that hose inside a metal spring (i.e. just like the "armor-coated" steel brake lines) at any possible rub locations.
This "spring" might also help to prevent kinking of the hose where it bends sharply?
I don't like the looks of this install at all. Looks to me like it's gonna get bent even worse on suspension bump. I would dismantle and re-engineer with different pieces.
X2. It appears that your problem is the long rigid banjo fitting. That's much longer that the ones I'm used to seeing and that's what's forcing the tight bend in the braided line.
The GM calipers have two small ears that stick up on either side of the tube as it exits the banjo fitting. You can see one of them in the photo. Now, it also appears that the tube section on this banjo is smaller in diameter than on the OEM tubes, so there probably is some slop between the tube and the two ears.
Im with Joe and tech on this one. There is no slack or free play in the line. Seems like it is always in a bind. Not a good thing.
It may get worse when the suspension moves up and down and in turns . Need to check all those scenarios well.
If left tight, it will surely fail, either at the crimp or it will loosen at the fittings.
All brake lines have a little extra length so there is no undue force applied to the crimps and the connections when in service.
Thank you for the feedback. I will see what I can do for securing these to prevent kinds and binding and chaffing. I may have to make due with some parts store rubber replacements until I can get this 100%.
joe_padavano, yes you are correct. I wish there was some sort of bend to help me out.
64SS327, here is an example of the amount of play between the two setups.
I see they are a little different than I an used to. It was a little hard to see in your first picture. I'm used to seeing the block ends but those are probably newer gm style.
They look to be about the same as the original anyways except for the bend. Cool gifs btw!
Grind off the locators what you don't need or want. You can go flush with the parent material. There's plenty of material there and it won't pose any problems.
attaching it to upper control arm will force it to flex on every bump. it will eventually break, probably at the fixed connection on the frame. a slightly shorter hose may clear all the obstacles and keep it from rubbing on anything, or getting pinched and still give you flexibility needed on suspension and turning. get rid of that bracket/guide attached to the A-frame. It's going to cause you trouble.
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