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Brake line shutoff valve.
I am installing a remote fill reservoir for my under the floor master cylinder. I am thinking I need a shutoff valve in the line near the master cylinder that would cut off the flow from the remote fill reservoir should I ever want to open the cover on the under floor master cylinder. Would a gas fuel line shutoff like on a show blower work for brake fluid?
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Brake line shutoff valve.
The question is would a shutoff for gasoline also be tolerant of brake fluid?
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I would think that a fuel shut off valve wouldnt take the pressure that a disk brake system generates......but dont quote me on it
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Ontario Rodders |
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He's not talking about putting it in the pressurized portion of the system, he is talking about putting it in basically what is a "drain" from the remote reservoir into the master cylinder reservoir, no pressure at all. I am thinking it would work, the only issue I would think is if there is a rubber seal or something that the brake fluid attacks. But that would be the only issue.
Brian |
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Oh...I thought he might want a poor mans Line-Lok........lol
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Ontario Rodders |
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LOL, I will never forget the first ride in a car with a line-lock. My buddy had a 440 powered 72 Duster and took me out, that car could LAUNCH! LOL
Brian |
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If you have a remote fill reservoir, You should never need to open the cover on the master cylinder...
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Brake line shutoff valve
I understand your point, but if your luck is like mine I wont know I have a leak until the remote reservoir and lines are filled, then I have a mess to unhook the lines full of fluid. If a fuel shut off rubber rings can stand gasoline can they with stand break fluid?
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Quote:
Don't even ask !!!!!![]() But if you feel you need them go for it... I just think the more you add into your brake system, The more that can go wrong down the line..
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I have a remote reservoir on my '33 sedan - fiberglass car, no door in the floor (and I didn't want to add one). I heard the same thing - if your system is in good shape, you won't need to get into it all that often. Probably fine after all is installed, bled, adjusted, not so much fun when you first go to fill and bleed the system. Getting to that master under the floor is a pain. So I added a remote fill reservoir.
My thought is that if you have to get into the master after you have a remote and it's filled, you could take most of the fluid out of the reservoir with a big syringe (or a turkey baster). Also, since most remote reservoirs have a seal at their top, leaving it closed and taking the hose off the fitting on the master, should result in very little spillage. Kind of like holding your finger on the top of a straw that you pull out of your drink, most of the liquid stays in the straw until you lift your finger. |
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Getting back to the OP question. If the valve you want to use has o-rings or other rubber parts it would be best to soak it in brake fluid for a while and see if that effects it's operation. Years ago I worked for a marine (ships) control company. We had installed a shaft brake on a tugboat. Think disc brake, only with a 36" rotor and caliper with 4" pucks. We installed the unit, tested it and want on our way. A few days later got a call that the brake was stuck on and they couldn't get it to release. I went down and struggled for hours to slide the caliper off the disc. Finally got it off and was able to get a puck out of the caliper. The 4" o-ring blew up to about 3' in diameter and the cross section went from 3/16" to about 1/2". So yes, incompatible fluid can effect rubber parts!
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I would think a ball valve with a teflon seal instead of rubber would work fine.
If you want something really trick, companies like Russell and Earls make dry break couplings for brake lines. They are for race cars so you can change calipers without having to re-bleed the brakes. I haven't looked at specific sizes available, but might be something to look into. Regards, Andy |
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