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Old 09-13-2013, 12:49 PM
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Brake pads overheated

My brakes were squealing so I decided to check them out, this is what Ive found





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Old 09-13-2013, 01:25 PM
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Nice, real nice.
For what it's worth, disc brake squeal is normally caused by the vibration of the pad against the caliper piston. If you smear some wheel bearing grease on the back of the pads before installation, they won't squeal. The wheel bearing grease won't run when it gets hot, stays put.
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:51 PM
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Luckily those 40 yr. old brakes did squeal!! Or else you would still be trying to stop with that junk!!
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Old 09-13-2013, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by johnnyg View Post
Luckily those 40 yr. old brakes did squeal!! Or else you would still be trying to stop with that junk!!
40 year old brakes? No, these were on my 2001 Ram 2500. I have no idea which brand they were as they came on truck when I bought it. I went down to Auto Zone and got some Duralast gold brake pads to replace those.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:18 PM
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Brake drag

Given the amount of rust on those pads and the edge of the rotor, it looks like it has spent some time submerged, and mean quite a bit. That or an intense amount of heat from risidual line pressure causing the pads to drag. How did the rotors look? Almost black? Had that happen on a '97 Yukon. The brakes drug hard enough that it felt like the truck was very low on power. Come to find out the ABS controller was freaking out and holding pressure in the front lines. Not even the ABS warning light came on to tell us there was an error in the system. Warped a set of rotors in a day from the heat.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:38 PM
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when i buy a used car, truck , what ever it is, oil change ,plugs ,cap, rotor ,filters, brakes ,anti freeze. makes good sense to spent the extra hundreds up front. so i know i am safe and ready to go from the get go.
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:08 PM
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I did all that right away (I just paid it off) I bought it 6 years ago and changed diesel filter, oil, etc checked brakes which appeared to be good, even installed speed bleeders and bled whole system with fresh fluid.
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Old 10-13-2013, 03:45 PM
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Are you by any chance considering replacing those rotors? I have to wonder just how much heat and grinding they have endured with those pads in that condition. Cheap insurance.
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Old 12-31-2013, 02:33 PM
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Brake line appears good, no bulging or damage to it, so does the caliper.
I drove truck today and noticed burning brake smell again. I hope it's not dragging brakes again.
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:21 AM
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Awhile back, my '98 Dakota left front caliper got "sticky" and burnt the pads. All it took was a good fluid flush after replacing the hard parts. Man that old fluid was filthy black, it took over a QT on the front system to get it to run clear! No more sticking...

Russ
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:37 AM
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Brake pads overheated

Those brakes were dragging, Big Time. Check the brake hoses going to the caliper. They can swell up on the inside and act like a check valve. It happened on my Caddy and the hose was so swelled that I couldn't blow 100 PSI compressed air through.
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:39 AM
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Brake pads overheating

I forgot to mention that the brake hoses on my Caddy looked fine from the outside and were swelled badly on the inside.
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by '48 Austin View Post
I forgot to mention that the brake hoses on my Caddy looked fine from the outside and were swelled badly on the inside.
That might be the issue. Only way to find out is to replace it.
I did entire system flush/fill, took like 2 quarts. I've bought some speed bleeders to make job easier.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:36 AM
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Drive it till the brakes are hot smelling. Then quickly stop at the shop, put a floor jack under each side and spin the wheel. If one or both are dragging, open the bleeder on the affected side to release any pressure that may be held by a blocked hose. If the brake doesn't release then the caliper has a piston seizing due to one or more problems and the hose is not you're issue. If the brake does release change the hose on the affected side.
My bet Is the piston seizing, although I do see a share of collapsed hoses.
Phenolic pistons are the worst when it comes to seizing. I would fix the dragging problem, then put on pads and rotors. Dont turn the old ones, new ones are the way to go anymore.
Also as suggested, lube the backside of the pads to keep them from squaling and don't forget to lubricate the contact points of the pads.(where the pads make physical contact in the caliper mount). That will keep the pads from sticking/rusting and causing uneven wear in the future.The stainless shim that is on the pad mounting surface area is to keep the area from wearing out as the shim is hard and the metal under it is soft. Constant (small as it is) movement in that area will wear a groove in the pads mount area, causing the pad to drag and stick in that spot, causing a bunch of things like, uneven braking, uneven wear,no braking action etc.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
Drive it till the brakes are hot smelling. Then quickly stop at the shop, put a floor jack under each side and spin the wheel. If one or both are dragging, open the bleeder on the affected side to release any pressure that may be held by a blocked hose. If the brake doesn't release then the caliper has a piston seizing due to one or more problems and the hose is not you're issue. If the brake does release change the hose on the affected side.
My bet Is the piston seizing, although I do see a share of collapsed hoses.
Phenolic pistons are the worst when it comes to seizing. I would fix the dragging problem, then put on pads and rotors. Dont turn the old ones, new ones are the way to go anymore.
It would be hard to spin rear wheel as it's dana with posi-track so I would have to chock front wheels and keep drivetrain in neutral while lifting up the rear of the truck.
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