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Old 09-18-2006, 06:58 PM
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Brake pads that rattle

I put 78 thunderbird disc brakes on my 65 galaxie and the pads rattle,the inner pads have the correct rattle clips but I think its the outer pads that are rattling. I used reman calipers and when they go through the reman process is there any machining done on the outside that could make the pads fit looser. Are the residual valves built in the mastercylinder or the proportioning valve and could there be a problem of not enough pressure being held in the calipers but I have a normal feeling pedal. Jeff

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Old 09-18-2006, 07:37 PM
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try the red anti squeal stuff on the backside of the calipers, usally works.
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Old 09-20-2006, 10:18 PM
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Try putting a glop of grease between the pad and caliper. It is highly possible that your outer brake pads are not clamped tightly into the caliper when they are installed. There is a tab at each end of the pad that wraps around the ends of the caliper and those must be really tight to prevent rattling.
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Old 09-21-2006, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyardjeff

I put 78 thunderbird disc brakes on my 65 galaxie and the pads rattle,the inner pads have the correct rattle clips but I think its the outer pads that are rattling. I used reman calipers and when they go through the reman process is there any machining done on the outside that could make the pads fit looser. Are the residual valves built in the mastercylinder or the proportioning valve and could there be a problem of not enough pressure being held in the calipers but I have a normal feeling pedal. Jeff
The front disc of this type employ both a tension spring (at the bottom of the pads) and an anti-rattle clip at the top of the mounting bracket. If these were loaded calipers, both pieces should have been supplied new. With the correct clip and correctly tensioned spring, there should be no rattle. Do not attempt to glue them in or use any type of grease (will attack caliper dust shields) as premium pads now come with silicone shims on the outside of the pads.
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Old 09-22-2006, 09:50 PM
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With all due respect to those who have responded...a couple of corrections. First of all, it is entirely acceptable and preferable to use silicon based grease on the pads. It will not harm the seals. Just smear a very light film on the back of the pads where there is any metal to metal contact. Also, a light film of grease on the caliper where it contacts the bracket will help keep the caliper sliding freely.
The shims on the pads are not silicon but either steel or a composite laminated shim depending upon the brand and grade of pad.
The area of the caliper that abuts the pads was not machined during the rebuild.
The probable cause of your problem is the failure to squeeze the "ears" of the outboard pad to fit the caliper. My favorite technique is to squeeze the ears down a bit before installing the pads in the caliper. Squeeze them just enough so that you have to force the pads on with some vise-grips in order to make them seat all the way onto the caliper. Do not use the vise-grips against the friction material but against the metal part of the pad. When you are done, there should be no movement at all between the pad and the caliper.
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Old 09-23-2006, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwell007

With all due respect to those who have responded...a couple of corrections.
You mean personal suggestions?

Quote:
First of all, it is entirely acceptable and preferable to use silicon based grease on the pads. It will not harm the seals. Just smear a very light film on the back of the pads where there is any metal to metal contact. Also, a light film of grease on the caliper where it contacts the bracket will help keep the caliper sliding freely.
Agreed. A dialectric gel is used after the slides have been cleaned, sparingly. With the proper shims installed, there is no need to spread the lubricant onto the pad(s). This is not what I was addressing.

What I was responding to is;

Quote:
Originally Posted by sam_ugogurl

Try putting a glop of grease between the pad and caliper.
What type of grease is being referred to here? Chassis? A petroleum based lubricant will swell the dust boots on the caliper leading to seal failure.

And how does glop transfer to metric measurements?

Quote:
The shims on the pads are not silicon but either steel or a composite laminated shim depending upon the brand and grade of pad.
The shims on premium quality pads (not AUTOZONE) shims contain silicone as a lubricant to not have to use a dialectric or brake shoe glue on recent applications. That is old technology.

Quote:
The probable cause of your problem is the failure to squeeze the "ears" of the outboard pad to fit the caliper. My favorite technique is to squeeze the ears down a bit before installing the pads in the caliper. Squeeze them just enough so that you have to force the pads on with some vise-grips in order to make them seat all the way onto the caliper. Do not use the vise-grips against the friction material but against the metal part of the pad. When you are done, there should be no movement at all between the pad and the caliper.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sam_ugogurl

It is highly possible that your outer brake pads are not clamped tightly into the caliper when they are installed. There is a tab at each end of the pad that wraps around the ends of the caliper and those must be really tight to prevent rattling.
Agreed. But this would also lead to pad knock. Being as how the caliper is loaded, all of this should have been done by the rebuilder. It is most likely a low dollar overhaul. You get what you pay for, simple as that.
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Old 10-01-2010, 02:00 AM
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This indicates the brake parts are loose - which is in some ways 'normal' - except... There's a large spring that is intended to eliminate the looseness and put tension against the various parts. Sometimes it's referred to as the anti-rattle spring. Typically you can see this by looking through the wheel spokes going across the outside portion of the brake assembly. These have been known to come loose, and even fall off.

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