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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2008, 02:29 PM
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I'll just add my two cents, although mikey has it pretty nailed:

I disagree somewhat with not needing a proportioning valve for disc/disc. First of all, there is no guarantee that the front brakes offer the same braking torque as the rears. If we're mixing and matching master cylinders, brakes, and everything else, the chances that they'll be right without a prop valve are very slim. In a 50/50 weight bias car, I like to see 70/30 front/rear brake bias. That is actual braking torque, not pressure. The actual pressures you need to send to those brakes might be 80/20 or 65/35 depending on how much brake torque the brakes you've chosen provide.

The brake delay incorporated with prop valves is a nice addition, but its more of a dumb driver safety thing. It will help an inexperienced driver in a panic stop, but for most purposes its not required in my opinion.

As far as aluminum, don't use it at all. Its an absolute no-no for lines. Aluminum tubing is usually rated around 300-500 psi, but brakes can easily approach 2000 psi. For fittings, I say avoid them. Some have done it and been successful, but on our race car we temporarily fixed one with an aluminum fitting and it ripped the threads right out of the fitting on the third turn.

Don't use brass either. I've done it before and it hasn't let me down, but its not DOT legal. The big thick brass unions and tees are usually OK, but make sure the tube nuts are steel or stainless.

Othewise, AN fittings are great for this kind of thing. Make sure you do the actual flare; never use compression fittings or slip-ons of any kind. But a 37* AN flare is just as good (if not better) than a double flare 45.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2008, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by curtis73
Some have done it and been successful, but on our race car we temporarily fixed one with an aluminum fitting and it ripped the threads right out of the fitting on the third turn.
I popped the top off of an alum AN tube nut one time tightening it ....

I also don't like using aluminum fittings with SS tube because besides Al being much weaker, it is cheesy looking next to the SS.

my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
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Old 01-30-2008, 02:36 PM
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Thanks to both of you. I ordered stainless steel line, steel/zinc plated fittings, stainless booster and the au master cylinder (with build in p.v.) from Speedway. The master/booster price wasnt much more than a standard corvette master cyclinder. Well....a benjamin more. I couldnt resist. My wife is going to kill me. LOL's. I ordered the steel sleeves/nuts from Summit.

Mikey, I chickened out on putting it all inside the frame rails. Too much confusion for this guy. I would have to come out of the frame anyway to get to the front right because the crossmember had a solid plate on the ends and no way to fasten it inside the 4X4 box tubing. Oh well.


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