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Old 08-21-2013, 02:25 PM
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Brake problem -air in the lines?

I have a 62 BelAir wagon with Wilwood disc brakes all the way around. I had the car together last winter and had good brakes. Actually put 10 miles on car. No probelm stopping. I tore it apart to paint it and now I can't get the brakes to work.
You can pump the pedal up and get a fairly good brake. Take your foot off and wait a couple seconds and push again - it goes to the floor. I have tried bleeding the air at the bleeders as Wilwood recommends (furtherest from MC, outside first, don't touch bottom bleeders, etc. Bleeders are all straight up on calipers). I have a Kugel Corvette MC. I have a MasterPower remote booster in trunk (actually cargo dept).
The only thing I did different after I went back together is put 2 lb. Wilwood residual check valves up at the MC. They are about 12 inches from MC. Did this because after you drove car and let it sit a few hours, first push on brake was soft.
The brake lines running from MC to booster make a very large hump to clear rearend. The car sits very low and needed to do this. I assume air could be trapped in these two lines where it humps or arches.
Any ideas? Is it air in the lines? What can I do to get the air out? Do those MityVacs which connect to compressor (not manual ones) work? Thanks.

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Old 08-21-2013, 02:27 PM
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Gravity feed it for a few hours and try again!
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:30 PM
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Thanks. To gravity feed, take MC top off, open all bleeders? What about the two bleeders on the power brake booster in the trunk? Open them too?
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Old 08-21-2013, 04:23 PM
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Caution when bleeding the brakes. Don,t pump up the brakes vigorously as you can compress any air in the system. this causes tiny bubbles which take a while to disperse. A couple gentle pumps and then crack the bleeder.
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:06 PM
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Are you sure you didn't put the residual valve in backwards. This could give you issues bleeding. If you get some plugs for the master cylinder ports you can try bleeding just the fronts then just the backs to at least narrow down where the issue is.
As someone else mentioned when bleeding dont pump the pedal. Just open the bleeder, slowly push the pedal down about 3/4 the way close bleeder and repeat.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:13 PM
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I double checked the residual check valves. They are pointed in right direction. Since they are essentially a one- way valve I assume they are holding the air in to some degree. That correct?
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:13 PM
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make sure the calipers are on the correct side? I have had to bleed the odd system with the car running,,,, Be very gentle on brake pedal if the car is running.Are you using a proportioning valve?
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:17 PM
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On the issue of getting air out of my lines, how would one of those Mity Vacs work? Not the manual ones but one that uses air compressor?
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:21 PM
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I am running Wilwood proportioning valve. I never adjusted from when brakes worked first time and when I put car back together after painting. Keep in mind car had good brakes before disassembly
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:37 PM
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you can try just putting your finger over the caliper nipple while bleeding.This prevents air going back in the bleeder when upstroking pedal.
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Old 09-01-2013, 07:56 AM
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brake problem

did you bench bleed master cyl?
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:13 PM
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Yes. I think it may be the mastercylinder. Doesn't look like the "piston" is coming all the way back.
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