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Old 11-30-2005, 11:40 AM
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Brake Tips for BIGSKY!

Bigsky,

Saw your new pictures of your brake job in your gallery, looks like nice work. Just thought it was worth mentioning to you, your brake lines should have been run behind the housing to avoid mechanical damage from stones, road schrapnel, and mechanical failure of the auto parts around it. The lines should run the outline of the rearend at the upper backside to keep out of harm's way.

What's the frame from?

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Old 12-01-2005, 10:40 AM
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Alittle1, thanks for the tips. The project is a 71 C-10 2wd shorty. I ran the lines in front of the housing as to not be seen from the rear, so it was totally an aesthetics thing. I am thinking though that the new brake cylinders I installed are probably installed on the wrong sides now, because the mounting holes are towards the front.

Another factor in this installation is the small amount of space in the C-notch for the brake lines to pass through when the air bags are empty. I will switch the cylinders and bend some new lines I think. After being away from the project for a few days then looking back at it, I wasn't totally happy with the space between the left side line and the housing anyway. Brake line is cheap, so I might as well take another run at it!

Q'tion: Can anyone suggest some clips that I could weld to the housing to hold the brake lines? I don't intend to use those hose clamps permanently.
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Old 12-01-2005, 01:59 PM
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I've seen small pieces of tubing welded to an axle to hld brake lines in place, but the lines have to be run then the ends installed (double flared). Is there a pick-n-pull salvage yard close by? Most OEMs use a spring/snap-on metal clip. Maybe a restoration supplier will have them? I'm not sure you really need clips though. If the lines are bent correctly they aren't needed.
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Old 12-01-2005, 03:53 PM
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Hmm, maybe the two rearends I have in my collection will have some clips I can use.
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Old 12-02-2005, 11:24 AM
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Ok, had a productive night in the garage [notice I did not call it a shop, cuz it isn't], the rear brake lines are now running behind the rear end, except where they join the flex hose. To get this done, I pulled the axles, removed the brakes, and switched the wheel cylinders to the correct side so the holes were pointed rearward. I'll chock it up to a learning experience



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Old 12-02-2005, 11:41 AM
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BIGSKY I'm turning green with envy I would love to have a short bed truck like yours, I think they are the best years for GM trucks. Why did you widen the rear wheel wells? Do you plan on a mini tub? Looks like the frame was not modified for a big tub job. Keep up the good work.

Steve
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Old 12-02-2005, 03:44 PM
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Yea the 67-72 GM trucks are getting extremely popular nowadays, there seems to be a feature on one in every issue of Truckin, Truck Builder, Classic Truck etc. I bought my 71 Cheyenne back 15 years ago to replace a very worn out 73 Camaro.

My 71 is a long bed truck, and with this resto I wanted to have a short box, so I obtained a short frame and short fleet bed. I took the truck apart in February, repaired the rust in the cab, cleaned and painted the short frame and began assembling the chassis. I have replaced all the wear parts and have installed airbags, c-notched the rear, put in a rear fuel tank.

I have widened the rear wells to accomodate a 10" wide wheel that has only 3" of backspacing. That is why I have changed the rearend to that Ford 9", because it is 6" narrower. I want to have the wide lip rim look, and with the air ride, the wheels have to fit completely inside the wheel opening. This the look I am after, this is not my truck, but a great example:



My truck will be red though, and has the large 71 rear window.
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