Brakes on GM 14 bolt FF axle - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2007, 08:10 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 1,747
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 64 Times in 62 Posts
Brakes on GM 14 bolt FF axle

I want to pull the brake drums off to check the rear brakes on my '75 GMC pickup with a 14 bolt full floating rear axle.

The GM repair manual just says to disconnect the emergency brake cable and remove the wheels, and the drums should just pull off. Is it really that easy on this big FF axle? The manual also says it should have a standard star wheel adjuster that can be backed off manually to get clearance from the shoes to the drum.

Also, do you have any words of wisdom or warnings on replacing the brake shoes? I have the HD brakes on my K25, so it has the large drums, which should have the wide shoes and 13" diameter drum. Other than size, it looks like they are the same as any other drum brake setup.

Thanks,

Bruce

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2007, 08:33 AM
Henry Highrise's Avatar
Lost in the 60's
 
Last wiki edit: Removing stuck fasteners Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Dixieland
Age: 69
Posts: 15,189
Wiki Edits: 4

Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
This is the Transmission/Rearend forum.......brake questions should go in the Brake forum. But yes you manual is telling you right. Only take one side at a time down...that way you can go look at the other side for referance as you put it back together. Go get you a set of heavy duty brake spring pliers as you are going to need them. They make it a lot easier and safer.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2007, 08:40 AM
Bryan59EC's Avatar
Car? Truck? Who Cares
 

Last journal entry: First week of December
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Age: 54
Posts: 2,329
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 14 Times in 12 Posts
I thought that there was a bearing retaining nut that needs to be removed.

Remove tire
Remove Axel
Remove bearing nut and bearings---------(just like the front--only bigger)
Remove drums.

That is how I remember doing my 74 -----way long time ago
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2007, 09:39 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 1,747
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 64 Times in 62 Posts
Bryan,

I went back to the manual, and realized that your description seems to match the GM manual for the 14 bolt.

The directions for removing the drum on the 14 bolt refer back to the directions for removing the axle first. It looks like its quite a bit more complicated than simply pulling the drum. The only holdup I have today is that I don't have the bearing wrench.

Is the bearing wrench for the 14 bolt FF the same size as the one for the Dana 44 in the front? I've seen several of these wrenches at the store, but never took a close look to see how many sizes there are.

Thanks,

Bruce
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2007, 02:19 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Vacuum brake bleeder set up
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,245
Wiki Edits: 8

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
No...it is not the same size as the front D44. It is the same size as the D60 (k30) front end spindle nut spanner socket. Kragen MIGHT have them. Autozone will not have it. Your best bet is NAPA or some other quality parts store. The torque spec is HUGE so there is no way to do it without the proper socket.

To make it easier to remove I use a long extension and put a jack stand under it to be sure I don't lever the socket out while trying to break it loose.

If the drums are worn you should look into a disc brake swap because those rotors are about $130 each

My disc brake swap
d44 front calipers $40
Brake pads $40
Brackets $65
Rotors (77 K20) $70
The rest was stuff I had laying around. If you want an e-brake it will be more money...but I have a driveshaft mounted e-brake.

Last edited by Triaged; 01-15-2007 at 03:47 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2007, 03:00 PM
curtis73's Avatar
Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
 
Last wiki edit: How to find cheap parts
Last journal entry: 1999-2001: Getting it on the road
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 40
Posts: 5,128
Wiki Edits: 16

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
The greatest axle ever created... except for the brakes. Ya gotta pull the axles and bearings to get the drums off.

The manual may have been describing the SF 14-bolt which I think fits that description.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2007, 05:53 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 1,747
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 64 Times in 62 Posts
What GM vehicles came with the driveshaft mounted ebrake? If I could switch to that setup for the ebrake, the switch to rear discs would be simpler and cheaper.

Bruce
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2007, 06:02 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Vacuum brake bleeder set up
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,245
Wiki Edits: 8

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I should have mentioned that...

None that I know of. I have one bolted to the back of my transfer case made by High Angle Driveline http://highangledriveline.com/e_brake.html It holds much much better then my factory 12-bolt drums did because it works through my 4.56:1 gear reduction. I think some Land Rovers came with a drum on the t-case output for an e-brake.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2007, 12:18 PM
fast68's Avatar
likes chevy trucks & boobies
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: IL
Posts: 1,970
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
thw 14 FF brakes were all 13"
were 2.5" wide and some 3.5" wide depending on the model and GVRW rating of the truck

to pull the drums you hvae to first unbolt the axle shafts and pull them

then inside there are two large nuts and washer tang lock plates, these hold the bearings and hubs on


its an oily greasy job, you wil lose some gear oil so you will have to top it off after reassembly



your gm repair manual is obviously not for the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks before 1981

the drum brake setup on these is conventional with single adjuster assembly at the bottom yes, nothing different, just larger parts is all

if you need any more info or want to see pics of me taking the drum off the 3/4 ton 14 FF that i have outside then lemme know




as i have to take it apart to put new wheel seals in it anyways

you can tell a 3/4 ton one from a 1 ton one by the length of the hub, the 1 ton hub sticks out alot further than the 3/4 ton one like i have in my pic above, and also the 1 ton drums are wider


the driveshaft brake drums were only on the medium and heavy duty trucks(C-40 and up/ 1.5 ton and up) and they had no park in the tranny

if you need to know anything about GM trucks from '67-87 then jut let me know, they are my specialty and have been for over a decade i have owned billions of them, all kinds of different models and sizes, panels, burbs, blazers, pickups, C&C's, G-10 and G-20 vans, etc




good luck






Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gmck25
I want to pull the brake drums off to check the rear brakes on my '75 GMC pickup with a 14 bolt full floating rear axle.

The GM repair manual just says to disconnect the emergency brake cable and remove the wheels, and the drums should just pull off. Is it really that easy on this big FF axle? The manual also says it should have a standard star wheel adjuster that can be backed off manually to get clearance from the shoes to the drum.

Also, do you have any words of wisdom or warnings on replacing the brake shoes? I have the HD brakes on my K25, so it has the large drums, which should have the wide shoes and 13" diameter drum. Other than size, it looks like they are the same as any other drum brake setup.

Thanks,

Bruce

Last edited by fast68; 01-21-2007 at 02:04 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2007, 07:16 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 1,747
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 64 Times in 62 Posts
Thanks for the additional info on the brakes. The OEM GM manual I have does cover all the axles and in most cases has good directions However, it covers all the '74 and '75 light duty models (pickups, subs, step-vans, etc) and it takes careful reading to make sure I'm looking at the right instructions.

I'm going to wait until I have a full weekend available to pull the rear brakes apart. I looked through the inspection ports and it doesn't look like the linings are anywhere near metal on metal. I haven't had rear brakes apart since I got the truck from my father-in-law about four years ago, and its one of the last items I need to go through.

My father-in-law used the truck on the farm and usually did a good job on standard maintenanace (like brakes). However, it took me nearly two years to get through all the body repairs and fixes for what he considered non-essential. For example, when I got it the only items on the dash/interior that worked were the mechanical oil pressure gauge and an add-on temp gauge. There were blown fuses and missing grounds that screwed up everything else on the dash.

Thanks again,

Bruce
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2007, 03:31 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: texas
Age: 69
Posts: 527
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
What's all that white stuff on the ground?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
10 Bolt Rear End Axle Code TORI1 Transmission - Rearend 13 03-31-2006 07:17 AM
Transfer case - NP 203 - 205 jrm123180 Transmission - Rearend 2 03-24-2006 07:36 AM
GM 10 bolt axle code 4yp G136 dadsgp Transmission - Rearend 1 03-03-2006 10:51 PM
GM 12 Bolt Housing Codes jbspringer Transmission - Rearend 0 10-03-2002 03:43 PM
8.5 GM 10 BOLT CARRIER SWAP, POSSIBLE?? PURPLEOMEGA Transmission - Rearend 0 09-18-2002 03:04 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.