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Old 06-07-2005, 05:57 PM
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brakes just stopped working. yeeeeaaaaaaa!

DW just called. like that expression? DW stands for dear wife. used on all the gay house-type forums. thought i'd use it here for a little comic relief. so haha.
just called and says the brakes just quit working when she tried to stop the car on a busy road. somehow she drives all the way home. gotta wonder about her sometimes as she was quite far from home when they failed and she says she didnt use the e-brake at all!

anyway i just changed the front pads and one rotor on this 87 reliant wagon. the old pads were annhilated. so i had to push the pistons back in quite aways to get the new pads in. i never checked the fluid, but that would have had to of filled up the reservoir. so, without looking to see where there is no doubt a huge fluid leak/fitting explosion, think there is is any possibility that i f'd something up on the front brakes by pushing them in too far or something? this was two week-ends ago.

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Last edited by bullheimer; 06-07-2005 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 06-07-2005, 07:29 PM
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They must have worked ok for her to get to work. I won't comment any more until you confirm you did check the MC fluid level and found it to be near proper level.

Trees
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Old 06-07-2005, 08:14 PM
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You can't really push them in "too far". They stop when they reach the bottom of the bore. Just check everything over front and rear & let us know what you find.
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Old 06-07-2005, 08:44 PM
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Sometimes crud builds up in the caliper chambers and when you push them back it get under the seals and makes them leak. This is especially true on run out brakes.
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Old 06-08-2005, 02:42 PM
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problem solved quick fix

leaking from the banjo fitting. i thought the rubber was cracked but it wasnt. the m.c. was empty, get this. BOTH SIDES!! the back went down with the front but only so far as to not required bleeding, i.e. no air got in the rears.

apparently when i change the rotor and left the caliper hanging, or while i was pushing in the piston and putting the pads on, the bolt thru the banjo loosened up, the washers looked about shot as well. a quick trip to the store and two bronze washers later, it was back together. bled the brakes and away we went.
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Old 06-09-2005, 04:41 AM
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Just a little tip. When replacing brake pads, you should never just push in the calipers, forcing the fluid back into the MC. I open the bleeder to allow the fluid to escape. Once the job is done refill the MC with new fluid. In actuallity, it isn't really a bad time to flush out all of the old fluid and replace it with new. Brake fluid is really not expensive, and you should never keep an open container for the next job anyway. The reason for this is that brake fluid absorbs moisture. I know that there is a word for that, but must be more letters in it than what I can use. LOL Most times, the fluid that comes out is really bad looking, ( I have actually seen some that looked like dirty motor oil)specially if the pads are really worn bad, meaning the fluid has been in there a long time. Crud will biuld up in the lines, valves, and calipers. This can lead to additional brake problems down the road.
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Old 06-09-2005, 05:45 PM
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Hygroscopic is the word. Excellent advice.

The black is mostly from heat and varnish. The hygroscopic nature of brake fluid prevents water from collecting in puddles. Rather, it is absorbed into the fluid. Brake fluid which has absorbed a lot of moisture is cloudy.

Brake fluid has anti corrosive qualities which deteriorate over time. Not pushing it back to the master is excellent advice (which I rarely take). It really should be flushed every few years anyway because of all the nasty black stuff, and it's deterioration.
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Old 06-09-2005, 06:05 PM
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http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf50412.htm
Good article.

Apparently some brake fluids can change color almost immediately just from being exposed to rubber, and clean 'looking' fluid isbn't always an indication that it's good.
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Old 06-12-2005, 01:10 PM
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that is good advice. i didnt need to do that on the wheel that leaked it all out tho. but as i go around a car bleeding brakes onto the ground-haha- i always try to let as much out of the line as i have time for, just to replace alittle more fluid than just a squirt or two would do. i spoze we should use a cup and fill it up at each wheel till it's somewhat clear and looks new.
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Old 06-15-2005, 10:20 AM
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Prior to collasping the piston, make sure of the procedure.
Some new cars have a have an access bolt leading to a allen screw to back out the pistion. It dosen't matter how much torque a person puts on the c-clamp. Also helps to read the instruction book once in awhile also.

Dutch
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