[1935 Ford Steve]

I have 4 wheel disc on my 35 Ford. A body on front and Seville on back. Been working fine but lately pulls dramatically to left. Rebuilt right front caliper but not help. Brakes bleed out ok

[35WINDOW]

Steve,

Don't those Calipers slide on their Mounts? Might check and see if they are free-

[1935 Ford Steve]

I'll check I also hear a clunk from the right front when I hit the brakes which I can't figure out. Maybe it's not sliding freely. Could the rear brakes cause the front to pull.

[35WINDOW]

Not as likely, but could contribute-does it track straight when you are driving (I wonder if you have some Brake Drag on the left front-have you checked the left front Caliper)? Are all of the parts new? Is this a new build? The clunk should ceratinly be investigated-

[1935 Ford Steve]

Could be dragging I'll check left tonight. I drove for years this system ok but car was down for 10 years. Just got back on road year ago with all SS lines and rebuild booster and all parts and has driven ok until now. Hard to get new calipers, most rebuilt, with this system unless go with high dollar companies.

[Sean's]

Yeah Clunk's on left ? Pull's too left ? Could be caliper , wheel bearing , Gotta ask if a Metering Valve was incorporated intoo System .

Metering Valves on Ford brakeing System's do require Centering . <<, Procedure for centering metering Valve's Per Chilton's manual instruction's !

Typically speaking tho I never just Rebuild one Caliper or Wheel Cylinder . The General Repair Guide lines Reccomend You rebuiild Both Sides , And or install 2 New front calipers on Front , Or 2 New one's on rear . Or all 4 front and back . Never just one ?

Too just rebuild one side is too Affect the Metering valve , and the master cylinder unevenly .

Could even be a warped Disc . If I member right . On ford truck's you, also had the option of a Double Piston Caliper or Single Piston Caliper , And I think either will Fit in place of the Other ???? << Not Totally sure on that but seem's I remember somethin like that ?

But your Chunkin / Clunkin could be that One side is grabbin harder than the other Due too the Imbalance of only having Addressed 1 Caliper on 1 Side . Might be it has caused another problem in your suspension .

Sean

[1935 Ford Steve]

Thanks Clunk is on right front and I replaced all ball joints etc. but I'm going to pull apart front to put in either air bags or new springs/shocks. Maybe I'll see something since front seems to make strange noises when I go over bumps at low speeds. Drives fine on highway. Did the A bodies Chevelles etc. have an anti-rattle clip. Maybe need one but one would think that since pads don't move that much, would be hard to get clunk from pads. I'm leaning to having a bad ball joint because it's really a loud noise.

[1935 Ford Steve]

Also no metering valve. Only use adj. proportioning valve to rear brakes. Using fruit jar with Midland booster. Brakes were working great until recently.

[poncho62]

How old are the rubber flex lines..........they may be swelling/colapsing

[1935 Ford Steve]

I bought them 5 years ago but have only been on car for 18 months but car has been setting alot. Seem to be getting good fluid out of caliper when bleeding but using hose on fitting so hard to tell real pressure. I use pressure bleeder which has seemed to work well in past.

[1935 Ford Steve]

Pulled the left side and discovered that bar from lower control arm to frame on M II suspension was cracked in two. There is an inner sleeve that kept ends together which was probably the clunking and then the ends seperated which was the pull to the left. At least the end fell on side of control arm which kept are from rotating completely back when stopping. That would have been fun. Stock bar is solid and aftermarket is hollow. Cracked at transition from control arm mount to tube. Really scary how cheaply was assembled. Buying the stock solid arms which of course I threw away. Thanks for your help.