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Old 08-18-2010, 07:26 PM
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Braking hell... help

oh man .. l have a 1979 Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 with a wicked shimmy. turned rotors, turned drums, replaced lower end of drag link as bushing was shot, replaced slip yoke( no carrier bearing.. short box)... rotated and balanced tires,replaced input and output shaft between transferr case and 4 speed tranmission. light full body vibration noticable at 60 to 65 mph. but when l hit the brakes hang on. you feel it in the streeing wheel, the floor, clutch pedal & brake pedal, the bed and hood shake. what's left to replace?

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Old 08-18-2010, 08:04 PM
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Ball joints???
Tie rod ends??

HAve you tried removing the front hub gears to eliminate the axle???
(will require the transfer case to be in 4-hi LOCK in order for the truck to move)

Usually a bad shaking on braking goes to warped rotors.

Perhaps the rotors have been cut too thin and warped as soon as
you applied the brakes for the first time.

An internally collapsed brake line can, and will keep a caliper from releasing
fully. A stuck caliper will in short order kill a rotor
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bearpaw
oh man .. l have a 1979 Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 with a wicked shimmy. turned rotors, turned drums, replaced lower end of drag link as bushing was shot, replaced slip yoke( no carrier bearing.. short box)... rotated and balanced tires,replaced input and output shaft between transferr case and 4 speed transmission. light full body vibration noticeable at 60 to 65 mph. but when l hit the brakes hang on. you feel it in the steering wheel, the floor, clutch pedal & brake pedal, the bed and hood shake. what's left to replace?
Turning rotors is a waste of time and most places can not do it correctly and generally make them worse. If you impact wrenched the wheel back on this can re-twist the rotors. Have you put a run out gauge on the rotors to see if they are warped, more than .004 will be noticeable . Did you clean all the rust off the hub flanges before you put the rotors back on.
It sounds like you have badly twisted rotors to me
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Old 08-20-2010, 11:25 PM
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" what's left to replace?"

did you check the spacing between the calipers and the mounting ears, free-play should be .015", NAPA should have shims to adjust the spacing.

this sounds worse than brake rotors, more like the bearing between the knuckle and axle housing OR completely dead shocks.
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Old 08-21-2010, 01:41 AM
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Have you replaced the steering stabilizer shock?? If truck is lifted, with tires bigger than 32" you may need to add a dual steering shock kit to prevent front end shimmy.

Front end been realigned?? toe-in been set or checked?? All tie rod ends checked, including the ones on the short steering link between steering box and knuckle??
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Old 08-23-2010, 05:17 PM
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thx for the ideas

my husband turned both the rotors and the drums... he has been turning wrenches for 25 plus years... I feel he knows what he is doing. I however to oldbodyman, shocks was next on my list as all 4 are completely blown. have not had it aligned... l've been told it looks from behind that the truck dog leggs a little going down the road. worried about a bend frame. because if the alignment is that bad .. wouldn't it chew up my tires? as it is right now.. they are wearing fairly even. also replaced over the weekend leaf spring bushing as they were gone (metal to metal).. but didn't really help much.
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Old 08-23-2010, 05:29 PM
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braking hell...

also.. yes l did replace streeing stabilizer shock. and yes it has a 4' lift... but just 31 x 10.50 tires. I did replace the drag like between the steering box and the knuckle. obviously as l get further into this project the more l realize someone was not very kind to my poor truck. but l am hooked and in it for better or worse... you all are a great help and l appreciate your time.
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Old 08-23-2010, 06:01 PM
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[QUOTE=bearpaw] l've been told it looks from behind that the truck dog leggs a little going down the road. worried about a bend frame. because if the alignment is that bad .. wouldn't it chew up my tires?

If it is dogtracking then most likely one of the axles has shifted back for some reason or another.Check the spring perches to see if it has shifted. The front should be the same setup with leaf springs. Dogtracking wont necessarily wear the tires. Toe in or out is what will wear a tire faster than anything. If it is dogtracking chances are the axle shifted and the only real noticable issue would be that the steering wheel is crooked while going straight down the road.
I would have to suggest like what brian 59ec said . Check the ball joints and at least perform a toe in check/adjustment. It very well could be u joint binding in front drive axles that is only apparent when braking.Standard u joints dont handle the velocity change when turning all that well to begin with and if they are freezing up/ rusting it could be the source of your woes.
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:55 AM
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If it is worse when you step on the brakes, there is a problem with something in the braking system that is warped or out of round. Unless you put a dial indicator on the rotors and spin them to see if they are out you are just guessing. I have seen brand new rotors ruined by not cleaning the hub surface before re installation or running the lugs up with an impact gun. The lugs need to be torqued in order to insure long rotor life.
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Old 08-24-2010, 12:14 PM
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Might be a bit of death wobble

I don't know much about it, other than it is present on some 4 x 4's. Depends on tires, lift, suspension, stabilzer bars etc.

Maybe you have a bit of this;
http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...th+wobble&aq=f

Worn components will compound the problem.
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Old 08-24-2010, 01:17 PM
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Check the steering box to see if the bolts are tight lose bolts can make the front end shimmy under hard braking. Check the spring bushings to see if the are worn. Check axle alignment by measuring from the front of the spring at the spring bushing eye bolt center at the front of the springs to the front of the axles front and rear. To much toe in or toe out in either direction can make the front end shimmy under hard braking.
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Old 08-24-2010, 04:59 PM
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Rather than just throw parts at it you should take a step backwards and think the whole thing out. I've done a couple of solid axle swaps in to IFS Toyotas and alignment is super critical. Both as far as the axle being where it belongs and the caster/camber/toe in goes.

So a few questions:
Has it always done this or did it not shimmy at one time?
What makes you suspect the frame is bent?
Who did the lift? Was it a kit? Did it include the required steering linkage/arm changes?

Ive seen a few lifts where someone just put lift blocks in and hacked the rest. Never going to work right.

Do you have a concrete floor in a garage you can use to do some measurements? If so take a bunch of common places on the frame and suspension and drip a plumb bob from each point down to the floor and put a dot there with a magic marker. Mark what it was that you were measuring there.

Then move the vehicle and take a tape measure and start measuring diagonals, front to back points, side to side points, etc. this will tell you if something is grossly wrong. All similar pairs of measurements should be the same. Based on what is wrong (if anything) you will be able to tell if the frame is bent or the suspension is out of whack. Also don't discount the rear axle being not in the right place and/or bushings/mounts falling apart.

You can do a reasonable alignment check yourself with 4 jack stands, 2 pieces of thinwall conduit, some string, a 6' piece of 1x2 lumber and 2 nails, and a $50 digital level from Sears. But that is a whole nother subject for another day. Search around on this site. I'll bet someone has a writeup on how to do it.

I have done 4 wheel alignments on a couple of corvettes I owned and came darn close to what you can do with an alignment machine. Just took 4 hours longer.

Lastly try to determine if the pinion angles of both axles (particularly the front) are within spec.
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Old 08-24-2010, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bearpaw
also.. yes l did replace streeing stabilizer shock. and yes it has a 4' lift... but just 31 x 10.50 tires. I did replace the drag like between the steering box and the knuckle. obviously as l get further into this project the more l realize someone was not very kind to my poor truck. but l am hooked and in it for better or worse... you all are a great help and l appreciate your time.
Here's another thought . On your 4" lift blocks are they flat (the same thickness front to back) or tapered ? If they are tapered and have been put in with the thicker part to the front your caster setting is messed up . . Trucks like a lot of positive caster . My '78 K-10 in stock form had a lot . Quick check . Turn the wheels all the way to one side . Do they lean in the same direction that they are turned ? They should . You also need about 1/8 " of toe-in .
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