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Old 05-18-2009, 06:32 PM
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Break Bleeding procedure

Hi everyone,
I did something stupid while I did bleed the break on a 2000 Chrysler Voyager.
I had to replace one break line from the ABS module to the right front wheel (passenger side).Now I did it the exact opposite way of what I should have done. I opened the bleed screw, had my son pushing the paddle down, waited a couple seconds, closed the screw and told him to get of the paddle after that.
The paddle got nice and hard after a couple round like that. But now the rear breaks are engaged without pushing the break paddle at all. Great!
However what is the safest and easiest way to go back to square one and have no pressure on any break without pusihing the paddle?

All helpful answers are welcome!
Im aware of it was a stupid move!

Thanks Tomi
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Old 05-19-2009, 04:40 AM
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Break the line loose that goes to the rear brakes from the master cylinder. You have way too much pressure in that line which is making the rear brakes engage.
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Old 05-19-2009, 06:13 AM
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Are you sure that the EM brake is not engaged

most likely the cause ..... brakes are dangerous when not serviced correctly..

too much pressure in rear .... can not figure that one, either you have pressure or you do not
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:22 AM
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Thanks guys,
well I have to double check if the front breaks are not pressurized as well.
I tried to drive the car out the garage and the front wheels did start turning and pushed the car with locked rear wheels. That made me believe the front breaks are not under pressure. But I will check for sure.
I have to agree with pepi it makes no sense that there is pressure in the rear and not in the front. And your also right that it is dangerous to work on breaks.
However I have to get them unpressurized in order to start over.
Any other Ideas?

Thanks!!
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Furytom
I have to get them unpressurized in order to start over.
Did you back it up? Sometimes this (backing up) will unlock stuck shoes.

Are BOTH rear wheels locked up? You have to jack it up to see, unless they both skidded when you moved it from the garage.

You can either crack the bleeder or the fitting to relieve the residual pressure.

All that pumping of the brake pedal might have caused the automatic adjusters to completely lock the rear brakes (drum-type) or have taken all the slack out of the e-brake adjustment, even if it has rear disc brakes.

I'd relieve the pressure and pull a drum (if so equipped) to see exactly what's going on- just relieving the pressure might not solve the problem, but should allow you to remove the drum.

If the rear brakes are disc, check out the e-brake (providing they're on the rear) to see if it's the culprit.

The combination valve has to be centered or the brake light will illuminate. E-brake off. Some combo or proportioning valves have a pin that needs to be depressed, I have no idea what your set-up is like.

Last edited by cobalt327; 05-19-2009 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 05-19-2009, 10:43 AM
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Thanks,
I have to figure all that out when I'm back in town.
I did back it up. Both rear tires did skid. As you said I have to jack it up and do all the checks you just pointed out.
Thanks for all your help.
I will check on Thursday and let you know what I will find.

Tomi
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Old 05-19-2009, 03:48 PM
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I bet the emergency brake is hung up. Your bleeding procedure was correct. Check all the e-brake components and I bet you will find the issue
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Old 05-19-2009, 09:20 PM
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T!
U think it was right? I know your one of the most knowledgeable guy out there. I appreciate your help on that. The only reason I ask is I have the manual for that Van and it explains the procedure like that:
Press the peddal
Open the bleed screw
Wait a couple seconds
close screw
let go the break paddle

As I said before exact the opposite the way I did it.
Now of course I was reading in detail after I did it.
But that was not the first time I did bleed a break so I felt very confident to do it. One thing was not right, there was no break fluid coming out of my bleed screw! That was what made me stop and look at the manual.
Another thing that concerned me is the ABS module. Could that screw me up in any way?
In the first place I thought as well that only the parking break got stuck.
But most likely you can free it up by just backing up!
But that did not do it in this case.
However I will check on all your recommendations and hints and see what I can come up with. I'm in Houston right now but back tomorrow night.
I check on Thursday then.

Again thanks to all of you for helping so much!!

Tomi
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Old 05-20-2009, 10:01 AM
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You process was ok. As long as the bleeded is not still open when you release the pedal you are ok. If you did it wrong wou would have no pedal. The only possible issue is you may have damaged the master if you pushed the pedal all the way to the floor. We never go more than 3/4 or so as to not move the cup past any possible build up in the bore
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Furytom
Hi everyone,
I did something stupid while I did bleed the break on a 2000 Chrysler Voyager.
I had to replace one break line from the ABS module to the right front wheel (passenger side).Now I did it the exact opposite way of what I should have done. I opened the bleed screw, had my son pushing the paddle down, waited a couple seconds, closed the screw and told him to get of the paddle after that.
The paddle got nice and hard after a couple round like that. But now the rear breaks are engaged without pushing the break paddle at all. Great!
However what is the safest and easiest way to go back to square one and have no pressure on any break without pusihing the paddle?

All helpful answers are welcome!
Im aware of it was a stupid move!

Thanks Tomi
While I don't think that this is your problem there is another way the rear brakes can lock up, the flex line that runs from the frame to the rear axle can go bad and act as a one way valve. The inner lining can separate from the inner wall of the line and break ,pressure from the master cyl will pass but when you release the brake pedal and the pressure back flows the flap of liner prevents the fluid from releasing from the wheel cly's, thus locking the wheels . To check this out open one of the bleeders on the back wheel and relive the pressure. The car should now move,but if it does this again after you apply the brakes again then you have a bad flex line going to the rear axle.
Hope this helps!
Good Luck!

Kenny

Lost your job yet?
Keep buying foreign.
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:06 PM
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Hi Guys.
Just got back from the garage. And its all done!

Mr. T was once again damn right. Not the hydraulic system was the issue. The parking break I had engaged all the time since I was working on the car made the shoes stuck to the drum.
I started as suggested from most of you guys to open the bleeders on the rear. No effect. So I checked all the cable from the parking break. all moved. So I took the rear wheels off and gave the drums a couple soft hits with the mallet
and the drums turned.
Now I know you didnt need to hear all that detailed crap but I'm really happy that I got it finally going. It was a pretty big project for me the stuck break was just a tiny little part of the whole thing.
Even the ABS works just fine!
Thanks to all of you for helping me out on that!

Tomi
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:11 PM
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I would pull the drums and make sure the cylinders are not leaking. If the shoes were stuck to the drum they may be wet.

Thanks for getting back
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