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Old 04-28-2006, 11:04 PM
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break light on..now what!?

Ok my brake light came on in my 73 roadrunner a couple days ago...i dont know squat about brakes, if I push on the brake in the car i seem to hear air coming from somewhere...does anyone know what the next step is? Do they possibly need adjusted, bled, or could there be a leak? Any insight is muoy appreciated!

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Old 04-29-2006, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrobby440
Ok my brake light came on in my 73 roadrunner a couple days ago...i dont know squat about brakes, if I push on the brake in the car i seem to hear air coming from somewhere...does anyone know what the next step is? Do they possibly need adjusted, bled, or could there be a leak? Any insight is muoy appreciated!

Look for brake fluid on the chassis somewhere , you probably got a line rusted into somewhere, If you don't see any wet places , add fluid and pump brakes again , it will show up somewhere.
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Old 04-29-2006, 03:54 PM
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I agree sound like a possible leak somewhere but if you simply cant find a leak it wouldnt hurt to try bleeding the brakes again.
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Old 04-29-2006, 05:31 PM
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could be master clyinder bad, or wheel clyinder bad, look for leaks at wheels on the inside of brake drums
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Old 04-29-2006, 08:32 PM
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The first giveaway to a leak is having to add fluid.......Has your fluid been low ...have you had to add anny? Do you notice a wetness on the inside of your tires? What concerns me is you say it makes a sound like air rushing out.......Do you have power brakes? If so that sound could be vacumn...your booster could be bad. At any rate something is wrong somewhere or your light would not be on. If you cannot find the problem then you need to get someone that knows how to check it out.
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Old 04-30-2006, 02:36 PM
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brakes

Yeah, the fronts are power....what is a booster? and is it diffuicult/expensive to fix? I havent had to add any fluid and i see no leakage, what i feel however is the brake pedal slowwwwly going down when I am sitting at a stop...Surely this is connected to my light coming on? Anyone with insight?
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Old 04-30-2006, 06:52 PM
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If your pedal is slowly going down..your master cylinder is by-passing. You can still stop for right now but you never know when they will quit stopping all together. Your master cylinder is bad, replace it and bench bleed the new master before installing, then bleed the whole system after you have installed it. I reccomend that you do this right away.
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Old 04-30-2006, 06:56 PM
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If you have never worked on brakes, which I suspect you havn't.....get someone who knows to do it, or help you do it. Brakes are not something to play with.
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Old 04-30-2006, 08:55 PM
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Absolutely what Ponch said! Brakes are nothing to play with...If you do not know what your doing get someone who does....not only your life is at risk, but also the lives of others.
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Old 05-01-2006, 01:30 AM
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Iīve posted this before, for the same problem, it comes from Mark Hamilton at MAD.
As stated before donīt mess with brakes if you donīt know

BRAKE WARNING LIGHT
Yes Malc, if it is the same type of system that was used since back in the 1970 years, I do know about those systems.
Typically the same warning light served to remind that the parking brake was ON, but also warn about a problem with the hydraulic brake system. A switch at either the parking brake or the switch in the hydraulic system grounded the light to turn it ON. Basically the hydraulic system warning is that either there is presently or there has been unequal pressure between the front and rear systems, which would indicate a problem with a leak or low fluid.
The hydraulic switch for the Warning Light is in the "junction block" that has a bunch of plumbing lines going in and out of it, and sometimes this junction block is actually a front/rear proportioning valve as well. What happens Malc is that if there is a loss or not enough pressure either at the front or at the rear brake system, a plunger in the block moves either toward the front or to the rear side of the junction block--which then makes contact to ground, and turns on the warning light by grounding it.
It was common for those warning lights to come ON (light-up) after servicing the hydraulic brake systems (like changing rear wheel cylinders or front calipers or brake lines or a master cylinder or anything that involved draining or loosing fluid.

THE TECHNIQUE TO GET THE LIGHT OFF
To get the light to go back off after the plunger has moved to either front or rear, we have to use hydraulic pressure to once again push it back to the center. The only technique that I know of is very effective, but it requires two people working carefully together, and bleeding the brakes while a lot of pressure is applied and the bleeder valves are opened only ever so slightly during this work.
Here is the method Malc...
One person will be inside of the car, have the ignition switch ON so that the Warning light will be ON (glowing brightly), and pump the brakes a couple of times, and hold the brake pedal down with a lot of pressure as would happen in a panic stop. You almost cannot apply too much pressure--and it will require a lot of pressure to move that plunger in the junction block. (Without enough pressure, that thing will not budge).
Then, while the one person inside of the car is pushing and holding the brake pedal down HARD, the other person will crack open a bleeder valve just barely enough to let a little fluid leak out of the bleeder screw. Either do one of the fronts first, or one of the rears first, since it is impossible to know which direction will be needed to push the plunger back to center. It will be a guess as to which end of the car to bleed first.
What is very important is that the person inside of the car must watch the Warning Light closely, and follow the brake pedal down while keeping a lot of pressure on it as the fluid slowly escapes out through the bleeder valve. If the Warning Light goes out, STOP PUSHING on the pedal, but do not release the brake pedal either, just maintain it where it is and instantly call out to the person who is at the bleeder screw "OUT" or some brief call so that the person at the bleeder screw can close the bleeder valve at that very instant that the warning light is out (which is when the plunger is pushed back to the center). This is a little tricky for the person inside of the car if they have never done it before, and I have found that it definitely works best to explain to the person what we are actually doing (applying lots of hydraulic brake pressure, and then bleeding off a little pressure from either the front or the rear system to cause that plunger in there to move back to the center).
If the person inside of the car does not stop applying pressure and just hold the pedal where it is and call out to the person at the bleeder screw, the plunger will move all the way to the opposite side of the junction block and once again the light will be ON. When that happens, we go to the other end of the car and repeat the procedure to move the plunger back in the other direction. For two people trying to work together have never done this before, expect that they will miss it once or twice before success is found.
If the light never does go out the first time that you try--go to the opposite end of the car and try releasing pressure over there (which would try to push the plunger in the opposite direction).
One secret to making this operation successful is NOT to open the bleeder screw to far--just enough to let a little brake fluid slowly escape (which will let the pedal creep down very slowly). You can imagine that if the bleeder screw is opened too far, the pedal will go down very fast, and then the light will go out only for an instant and then be ON again before the person inside of the car has a chance to react.

I hope all the explanation above makes sense Malc. This is something that I have successfully done many times, and with many makes and models. It does work--and the key to making it work is understanding that there is a plunger in there that will move to on side or the other when there has been lack of pressure at one side. So to move the plunger back to center we must cause un-equal pressure at the other side.
It was something that was much easier to do with manual brakes, or with a stock engine that idled very smoothly and quietly if the engine is running for power brakes. With a Hot Rod that idles rough and noisy, and with a woman in the driver's seat helping, the procedure might be difficult.
By the way Malc, I learned this procedure from a brake mechanic who worked at a GM dealership, and once he explained to me how it works I understood perfectly and have used it for years, and passed it on to other people who I have worked around. Too many mechanics will simply unplug the wire from the switch at the junction block--and I don't like that. These lights can be a good thing, they can warn of a hydraulic brake problem (but don't count it, they are not absolute, although most of the time this switch system does work pretty good).
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