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Old 10-06-2011, 09:46 AM
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"Break in oil"?

So I am running Comp Cams break in oil which is high in zinc in my new motor. I have about 350 miles on it and want to keep this Zinc rich oil in it, maybe with every oil change forever. But do I have to pay the $8 a quart for the Edelbrock or Comp cams stuff?

From what I understand Valvoline "Racing oil" is high in Zinc and so is "Delo" which is for diesels. But though the Comp cams and Edelbrock oils are damn proud of this Zinc and display it over the front of the container not a word is spoken of Zinc on the Valvoline or Delo, any one know if they actually do have Zinc in them?

Brian

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Old 10-06-2011, 10:08 AM
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Brian, you can run any oil you like, of any brand, and use a ZDDP additive. I would do a bit of research, but the one I used to use exclusively was AC Delco EOS. They used to send a bottle with every long block I ordered, so I read up on it, and began using it in all my flat tappet engines. The P/N is 992869, list price up here in Canada is $9.69/bottle Canadian. 1 bottle per oil change works well, and allows you to use whatever oil brand and viscosity floats your boat.
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Old 10-06-2011, 10:09 AM
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Brian check out Valvoline Synpower ,yes it is a synthetic but according to their web site it is high in zinc. I'm going to switch to it next oil change in my 91 DD because it has a flat tappet cam.
Kenny
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Old 10-06-2011, 10:15 AM
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Most diesel oils are high in zinc. I know Rotella changed their formula but I believe it still has zinc in it. I thought the GM eos was discontinued but I could be wrong. This was good stuff at a reasonable price.
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:24 AM
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Just checked my Delco vendor, and the AC Delco p/n I gave is a current, active product. I know GM had discontinued it for a while, but has reintroduced it recently.
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:51 AM
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I'v thought about small engine oils. most of them are flat tappet engines, and all but the Kohler Command is solid lifter. These oils would almost have to have high zinc contents and are not API rated... Granted some of it is expensive, but it's all synthetic or synthetic blend
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:58 AM
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I think the biggest problem was the ever growing myth that the "diesel oils" had ELIMINATED the zinc/phos content of the newer formula. When in fact they just decreased it from around 1200 ppm to 800 or so. Still plenty of good stuff but it wouldn't hurt a bit to add a 4 oz. bottle of EOS or ZDDP+....Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs, along with Valvoline racing oil are still very good alternatives, although a few more bucks per quart.
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Old 10-06-2011, 01:49 PM
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Is there a real advantage to continue using the high zinc oil (or additive) after a proper break-in?
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starnest
Is there a real advantage to continue using the high zinc oil (or additive) after a proper break-in?
Good question.
I am using Bradd Penn "the green oil" the racing synthetic mix in my flat tappet motor. I was using Mobil One, then after reading on this forum I switched to the Brad Penn
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starnest
Is there a real advantage to continue using the high zinc oil (or additive) after a proper break-in?
I have no scientific answer for you, but in my mind, spending 10 bucks for an extreme pressure lubricant additive at every 2000 mile oil change is a no-brainer.
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starnest
Is there a real advantage to continue using the high zinc oil (or additive) after a proper break-in?

Not losing a cam is one advantage.

NO commercially available oil that is made for on highway use has the proper amount of ZDDP. Valvoline RACING oil does, but it is a little more expensive. There are a LOT of manufacturers that produce an additive that usually sells for around $10 a bottle (enough for 1 oil change) that can be added to regular oils to get you what you're after though. If you want a easy recipe for an oil change that you can buy anywhere:

1 Napa Gold filter
3 quarts of Mobil 1
2-3 quarts of Royal Purple HPS
1 bottle of cam additive (Oil Extreeme works great)

It'll set you back about $45 an oil change (if you do it yourself) but it'll GREATLY reduce the wear on your engine, its only worth using if you plan on going for the half a million mile mark, otherwise Valvoline synthetic with cam additive and a Wix filter works very well.
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:30 PM
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Lucas makes a ZDDP additive that seems to work fine in my flat tappet engine. I buy it at the local NAPA store for $8 a pop. I run it all the time with Valvoline Racing 10W30, which has zinc and phosphorus also. If you have ever burnt a cam up during break in, you will do whatever it takes to not let that happen again. It's not just a simple cam change, it's a complete tear down and usually new bearings including cam bearings.

So do whatever makes you comfortable, but add something or run the Brad Penn, etc. Rotella 15W40 + Lucas ZDDP is reasonably cost effective.
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:50 PM
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Joe Gibb's oil "brags" on how good a break in oil they have. I used a roller camshaft as well as Motorcraft Semi-syn that is in all new Fords, but would have used this stuff if I had a flat tappet camshaft.

Dave W
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Old 10-06-2011, 08:18 PM
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I think all current SM and the newest SN auto oils contain 800 ppm but that's less than the previous 1200 and 1500 levels. Specialty oils like Amsoil, Brad Pen, Royal Purple, etc have higher levels.
Go the Corvetteforum.com and go to the C3 section. In the Technical section at the top of the first screen, there is a link to various posts by Billa that have all the latest info about Zn and Ph levels.
Terry
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Old 10-06-2011, 08:19 PM
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here is an article from car craft magazine
at the end, it lists some oils and additives with there levels of slippery stuff
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