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Old 01-23-2010, 04:24 PM
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Broke the Clutch Fork!??

I am obviously doing something wrong with my clutch install but I can't figure out what it is. It is in a '71 Nova with a mild 383.

I started with a Centerforce clutch behind a Chevy small block, inside a Lakewood 15015 bellhousing and in front of a WC-T5 out of a Firebird. Everything worked great for about 500 miles, then it quit disengaging. The pedal got very heavy and I could not get the tranny out of gear. All the linkage worked smoothly and the fork moved freely until it touched the clutch. I had no way to check the clutch itself so I replaced it, the throwout bearing, and the fork.

So everything is the same except now I am using a McCleod StreetPro with the throwout bearing that came with the kit and another stock GM fork. Everything worked just fine for about 500 miles again until about 2 weeks ago. It started to get real stiff on me so I checked the clutch adjustment, which turned out to be a little loose. Adjusted it and it again worked fine for about 2 days then same thing, Very heavy pedal, clutch not disengaging, can't get it out of gear.

Adjusted the clutch again but this time it seemed frozen. Went "Dang %$@! Clutch!!" and broke the fork!

What am I likely doing wrong guys?? I mean other than pretending to be a mechanic. Could it be that the bellhousing is out of alignment? I did not check that, as I do not have a dial indicator, but the tranny slipped onto the bellhousing smooth and easy.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Dave

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Old 01-23-2010, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman123
I am obviously doing something wrong with my clutch install but I can't figure out what it is. It is in a '71 Nova with a mild 383.

I started with a Centerforce clutch behind a Chevy small block, inside a Lakewood 15015 bellhousing and in front of a WC-T5 out of a Firebird. Everything worked great for about 500 miles, then it quit disengaging. The pedal got very heavy and I could not get the tranny out of gear. All the linkage worked smoothly and the fork moved freely until it touched the clutch. I had no way to check the clutch itself so I replaced it, the throwout bearing, and the fork.

So everything is the same except now I am using a McCleod StreetPro with the throwout bearing that came with the kit and another stock GM fork. Everything worked just fine for about 500 miles again until about 2 weeks ago. It started to get real stiff on me so I checked the clutch adjustment, which turned out to be a little loose. Adjusted it and it again worked fine for about 2 days then same thing, Very heavy pedal, clutch not disengaging, can't get it out of gear.

Adjusted the clutch again but this time it seemed frozen. Went "Dang %$@! Clutch!!" and broke the fork!

What am I likely doing wrong guys?? I mean other than pretending to be a mechanic. Could it be that the bellhousing is out of alignment? I did not check that, as I do not have a dial indicator, but the tranny slipped onto the bellhousing smooth and easy.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Dave
Did you replace the pilot bushing when you installed the tranny? It could alos be that the throwout bearing is hanging up on the sleeve and binding it up.
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Old 01-23-2010, 06:13 PM
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I did. I put a stock bronze pilot bushing in. The old one looked OK but I thought I had better put a new one in while I had the chance. I just used the throwout bearing that came with the McCleod clutch. It seemed to work fine, and would slide smoothly on the shaft when I moved the fork by hand (after dropping the push-rod).

These Lakewood bellhousings do have an adjustable pivot ball. I tried to follow the installation instructions for setting that up and the angle on the fork looked like the diagram.

Dave
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:54 PM
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Have you tried leaving more free play at the top of the clutch peddle?
It sounds almost like your over stepping the clutch.
I think your missing something the old parts are showing you.
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:29 PM
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clutch fork

I have welded reinforcement plates to a stamped steel fork. cut a piece of 10 gage to box the u shape. You should be able to feel the clutch when it releases. so you don't overtravel I had a problem one time when my brother missed a shift and over reved and dropped a valve. cracked a piston and bent the crank. It eventually wore out the thrust surface and there was about 3/8 of end play. I had re done the linckage so I had more travel in order to be able to shift. when I finally decided to pull out the clutch and check the flywheel I found the endplay.
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