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Old 02-10-2006, 08:55 PM
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Broken Rocker Arm Stud, Help to Remove

I pulled the valve cover tonight to find I have a broken rocker arm for the #8 cylinder Intake on a Ford 302 V8. The engine has 2000 miles since re-build and running a retro solid lifter high performance motor in a '66 Mustang. The studs were all replaced with screw in studs for the new valve train. The engine has not been raced and is just a fun local driver.

I'm looking for any ideas to unscrew the stud. I have about 1/2" of threads remaining on the stud. I'm thinking maybe two thin lock nuts and back the stud out. I will try to call the machine shop tomorrow (Saturday?????) for their advice.

All ideas welcome as I have a weekend to work the problem. Thank you in advance for your ideas, r

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Old 02-10-2006, 09:04 PM
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Old trick but it still works is to screw a nut down as far as possible and then weld the inside of the nut to the end of the stud and screw it out.
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Old 02-10-2006, 09:53 PM
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Yep,what he said.
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Old 02-10-2006, 09:56 PM
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If that doesn't work, then drill straight into the stud, put a deepwell socket over the stud (tight fit), spray some nitrous from a Whip-It into socket to shrink stud, then use an Easy-Out to unscrew the stud. I used to use Freon until it became illegal.
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:59 PM
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Thank you!!!!

First, THANK YOU all for taking the time to respond! I appreciate the support.

The machine shop I use was open this morning. I called and I was told Harbor Freight had a stud extractor this person had bought for $20. I ran over and got one. It worked like a champ. There are 6 pieces that fit over the stud. Kind of a female easy out if you know what I mean. On the one end you can use a box end or socket. I used a socket on a 3/8" drive and Wa La, it came out.

Now for parts but that I think that is the easy part and a Monday item. Maybe I can get back to the project car.

Thx again for taking the time to help me out, r
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Old 02-12-2006, 08:20 AM
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Glad you got it out, but that brings up another question. Why did it break? What brand studs are you using? What ratio rocker arms? What spring pressures are you running? There is a reasnon that stud broke. Perhaps it wasn't torqued down to the proper spec.

Vince
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Old 02-12-2006, 11:20 AM
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I wondered the exact same thing last night after drilling and removing the remnant piece in the nut. I drilled the remnant and used an Easy Out to get it out. It came out in TWO pieces! Huh? So inside the nut it was broken and then eventually failed just below the rocker.

The valve train was completely new 2000 miles ago at rebuild time, 15 months ago. I know who provided the cam, lifters, and matching springs. The push rods, studs, and rockers may have been the rebuilders choice but are not specifically listed on my invoice. So not knowing for sure I'm reluctant to name the manufacturer.

I remember though that the rocker assembly is a GM design but still new. That is probably a simple standard to use I guess (Geez, another chevy invasion into a Ford). I do not know the aspect ratio but should have more information tomorrow. I'm going over to the machine shop.

Too bad when something like a rocker stud fails. I have 15 more of those suckers in there. Nothing worse than loosing confidence in your ride. I may be replacing the others now.

regards, r
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Old 02-14-2006, 10:28 AM
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Epilog

I matched the two separate breaks on the same stud with the ARP site pictures.

First, after talking to the machine shop I believe the break inside the adjust nut occurred at installation time. They use a butterfly impact wrench and with a tool that can insert and extract studs. I think the stud may have been over stressed as the break appears to be an ARP "Torsion Shear." Possibly the stud was over torqued at installation. The adjusting nut finished it off but a few threads kept the rocker in place or both fractures happened at basically the same time.

The actual and actual break where the rocker fell of the stud appears to be an "Impact Shear." I'm not sure the original break contributed with engine vibration or both occurred within seconds of each other.

A replacement stud was $0.96. And yes it is a Chevy rocker setup in this 302 Ford. I plan to get the car running first and stay local for a little while.

r
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Old 02-14-2006, 12:07 PM
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How hard are you turning the engine? If you continue breaking studs, you might think about a stud girdle.
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Old 02-14-2006, 12:22 PM
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Chances are if they used an impact to install the studs (morons), they were over all over torqued. If it were my engine I would chunk the entire set and replace them with some ARP studs and install them with a torque wrench not an impact. Better inspect the treads in the heads also.

Vince
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Old 02-15-2006, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAW
I matched the two separate breaks on the same stud with the ARP site pictures.


A replacement stud was $0.96. And yes it is a Chevy rocker setup in this 302 Ford. I plan to get the car running first and stay local for a little while.

r

Use ARP brand studs ONLY. Apparently you do not have hex studs and guideplates, but threaded straight studs. ... I would get ARPs in there before I ever started it again.

Are your rocker arms capable of handling the lift?? Do they bind on the stud? Is the rocker hitting the retainer?

What do you mean Chebby rocker set up?
Chebbys and Fords do not interchange.
They might look similar but they do not interchange.

Sounds like your machine shop is..... questionable at best. But you did save $20 using the cheapo studs.
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