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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2011, 08:05 PM
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If you wanted to measure the installed height, you'd use the figure you get and subtract the valve lift from it and compare that result to the spring's published max lift or coil bind point. If you don't know what those figures are (because you don't know what brand or part number of the springs you have), then the best bet is to measure the coil bind clearance- like you mentioned and I described earlier.

You would also measure the distance from the bottom of the retainer at its lowest point (where the locks are at, in the center of the retainer on the bottom) with the valve on the seat- to where the retainer contacts the valve guide boss. If the lift is more than THIS measurement, the damage could have occurred.

If you find that there is enough clearance by whatever means you use, then you'd want to know what the spring pressure was. This is so you could see if the spring may have allowed the valve to float, causing the damage.

Usually for valve float to cause such damage, the RPM would need to have been fairly high at some point. This could have started the valve to break, then later on you might have been at an idle when the valve finally gave out.

More HERE, just remember that the total clearance between the coils is 0.060", NOT 0.060" between every coil, like they show.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2011, 10:47 PM
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This diagram actually has the coil bind measurement correct. >> http://www.chevytech.info/3c4o1.html
Rocker Geometry>> http://www.chevytech.info/3c3o1.html
Shows how with 1.6 Rockers the Pushrod moves closer to rocker Stud>> http://www.chevytech.info/3c3o2.html

Last edited by SSedan64; 03-07-2011 at 10:52 PM.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2011, 05:30 PM
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alright sorry guys been a busy day and i'm still going, when i get home tonight i'll sit down, roll up a couple, and do me some learning
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:17 PM
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Ok well, i forgot to bring my feeler gauges home but i did do some investigating, although i haven't found anything that really sticks out to me. I will still share the info with yall. I pulled all the valves out of the head and checked for any signs of the valve guide contacting the hold down plates. Didn't find anything. I also pulled the other head to check and see if any valves had contacted a piston on that side, still nothing. So i did my best to measure the springs at max lift. Which i did with the head on as you can see in the pictures. Although i'm not really sure if just finding the max lift like this is sufficient with lifter bleed down and what not. I did some reading on the links but it still didn't really tell me exactly how to measure it. Maybe i'm just not reading right i dunno. Anyway I also found by looking at these springs and comparing them to my springs on my other heads that these are for sure factory springs. Also a little more info that might help. The cam i'm using is a 485 intake 507 exhaust lift and i'm running 1.6 rockers. also heres some pictures, one of an intake valve at full lift and one of an exhaust valve. thanks for all the help as always guys, and feel free to slap me around if my way of measuring is completely irrelevant
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2011, 07:19 PM
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looking at the pictures seems more clear than standing out there with a flash light. Is it just me, or does that exhaust valve look like the bottom two coils are stacking?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2011, 07:47 PM
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The hydraulic lifter will compress, or "bleed down" from the spring pressure- you'd need to use a solid lifter adjusted to zero lash to use the method you're showing.

If the heads aren't modified and the springs are stock, that much lift isn't going to work- the valves will float- if coil bind or lack of retainer to guide boss clearance doesn't get them first.

I'm surprised there isn't interference with the pushrods to the guide holes in the head- unless the holes have been opened up.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:09 PM
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So basically you're telling me i need to get new springs, retainers, and enlarge my pushrod holes in the heads to fix my problems? i really want to get a new set of heads, but i just don't have the money to do it right now and i don't see myself having it anytime in the near future so i need to fix this and drive it for at least a year like it is. I just don't want to have problems with it.
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Old 03-11-2011, 05:37 PM
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Well i've been doing some studying and it seems that you are correct. I can't say for sure that the retainers are contacting the guide boss though because being that it has the umbrella seals on it i would figure that it would have damaged the seals had they ever contacted? Also i don't see any sign of the pushrod hitting anywhere in the head. So basically i'm looking into springs at this point, i just have to figure out exactly what type of spring i need for my cam.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2011, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoomo
So basically i'm looking into springs at this point, i just have to figure out exactly what type of spring i need for my cam.
If the pushrods are contacting the guide holes of the head, there will be shiny witness marks from the contact.

The retainers may be OK- unless you need a larger diameter spring or more installed height. Then possibly different retainers and/or locks would be needed to provide that extra diameter or installed height.

Try to find a set of springs that are stock diameter, else you'd need to machine the spring pockets for bigger diameter springs.

A set of $30 "Z-28/LT-1" springs may be an answer. These springs will work w/lifts up to 0.510" at a 1.7" (i.e. stock) installed height. They will fit the stock spring seat and will use the stock retainers. You still would need to verify the clearances. They have 120 lbs @ 1.7", 300 lbs. @ 1.250" and coil bind @ 1.160".
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Old 03-11-2011, 06:41 PM
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hmm ok but if i was to re use the 1.6 rocks that would put me over the 5.10 lift on the exhaust side. I have a set of stock 1.5 rocker arms but they are factory with about a million miles on them probably so is there any other springs that would work with my stock retainers and the heads that would allow for that little bit more lift? or do i just need to get a new set of 1.5 rockers
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2011, 06:44 PM
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I going back to 1.5 ratio rockers would help allot for the time being and wouldn't cost too many$$$.IMO
ssmonty
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Old 03-11-2011, 06:46 PM
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ya i bought the set of 1.6 for like 80 bucks. i'm just trying to do that cheapest route possible because i am broke and i don't want to dump any money in these heads, but spendining 800 for a set of heads is completely out of the question right now.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2011, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoomo
hmm ok but if i was to re use the 1.6 rocks that would put me over the 5.10 lift on the exhaust side. I have a set of stock 1.5 rocker arms but they are factory with about a million miles on them probably so is there any other springs that would work with my stock retainers and the heads that would allow for that little bit more lift? or do i just need to get a new set of 1.5 rockers
If you have a set of 1.5 rockers I would clean them up real good and look them over real good for any cracks in the ball area, maybe use a magnifying glass . JMO
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Old 03-11-2011, 06:53 PM
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that's kind of what i was wondering. what about the slot though. I've heard about problems with the slot on stock rockers with a high lift cam. When i bought the 1.6 i bought the "long slot" ones.
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Old 03-11-2011, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoomo
that's kind of what i was wondering. what about the slot though. I've heard about problems with the slot on stock rockers with a high lift cam. When i bought the 1.6 i bought the "long slot" ones.
Install one and adjust it and roll the engine over until the valve is open all the way and take a look at the slot with a mechanics mirror . Let us know .
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