[zoomo]

hmm ok i will do that. It seems i'm going to have go get a single solid lifter to test things.

[cobalt327]

You can use a solid lifter or a spare hydraulic lifter made to be solid.

Another spring that might work for you is the Howards p/n 98213, but these springs are installed @1.8"-1.85" so would need deeper spring pockets in the heads, longer valves or different retainers and locks to get the needed installed height. You're going to want to get rid of the rotator-type retainers on the exhaust valves, anyway.

Or go w/long slot 1.5 rockers like Elgin p/n 6150 (about $45) and the $30 set of springs.

[zoomo]

Alright i like the idea of just buying a new set if that's all it's going to cost me. I'm sure that my old rockers might be fine but i'm tired of having problems with this stuff. Then find a set of z28 springs. i'm going to pull the piston out tonight. A friend of mine says his dad has a set of dart torker heads he may sell for cheap. But i'm not sure how cheap he means so i'm going to wait till monday and see what kind of price they come up with and maybe i can swing it.

[mud.man.rj]

Sorry for what happened, that's rough. I would pull it apart change the piston and chech the bearing too, that's a lot of pressure on all the parts. Maybe find out the valve brand don't want it to happen again. Like you said you have had enough problems already. Good luck with it.

[zoomo]

ya i know, did i mention i just put a motor in about six months before this one and the cam went flat? ya, but i can't blame it on anything but my own ignorance really. I still have my worries about the valves in these heads but from everything i'm reading i have no reason to, as it seems the reason the valve broke is because the piston hit it.

[zoomo]

alright pulled the piston tonight, not sure what to think of how the bearings look. here's some pictures.

[SSedan64]

These Springs will work with your 1.6 Ratio Rockers by using +.050" Locks and no Spring Seat machining.
Search by Item #98212 >> http://www.competitionproducts.com/ for other Specs.
Seat Pr. @1.750" = 115 lbs.
Open Pr. @1.250" = 340 lbs.
Coil Bind = 1.150"
Max Lift .550"
Rate 425 lbs.
Look like they should safely handle + .030" to .040" more Lift than shown.

My old Catalog shows more & slightly different Spring pressure specs from the Website.
1.800" = 100 lbs.
1.850" = 110 lbs.
1.750" = 135 lbs.
1.500" = 235 lbs.
1.250" = 335 lbs
Coil Bind = 1.150"
Max Lift .570"

[johnsongrass1]

Those bearing aren't junk yet but the original assembler put it together pretty dirty. You can probably just get a new one and move on.

[zoomo]

alright everything on those springs looks promising ss, that woudl save me some money.And as far as the bearing, i don't like the sound of it being put together dirty that is not good at all is it? am i going to experience problems from this if all the other bearings are that way? and also going back to the valves i am still worried. can some people give me their own personal opinion, i don't want to risk destroying this engine, but i don'twant to spend extra money to buy valves if there is no risk. i'm really not sure if these valves are new or not, i figured they would be much cleaner if they were new.

[zoomo]

been looking around, found a friend with a set of pro comp vortec heads. He said they are new and he would take 500 for them and the intake, but i just don't really have that money, plus i've read some bad things about them. What do you guys think of this kit? it says good to 550 lift
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HP-He...item2eb38b6eda

[zoomo]

So i'm really concerned about the way the bearings look, i've taken off another rod bearing and found it looks the same. Is this a problem? the surface of the bearings seem smooth but i didn't think they should look like that

[ericnova72]

Originally Posted by zoomo

So i'm really concerned about the way the bearings look, i've taken off another rod bearing and found it looks the same. Is this a problem? the surface of the bearings seem smooth but i didn't think they should look like that

It's not what you'd like to see, but it isn't a deal breaker. It appears to only be in the sacrificial break-in coating on the bearings(the dull gray coating) and not down deep into the bearing surface( you say they feel smooth). The grit that did that light damage has long ago been flushed away by oil pressure in the first few minutes of run time, it was in the oil galleys of the block and oil passages of the crank at assembly.

It can be put back together without worry and last for countless miles, but if you are the anal type you could go through and replace them all.

[zoomo]

If it will work i can deal with it, i just don't want to have any more problems lol. so i suppose that i will put it back together. I'm ordering the new piston tonight and i'm still trying to figure out what i'm going to do with the heads. I found that set of springs and valves for under a hundred but i'm not sure of the quality. I also have a friend with a set of pro action heads, not sure of which one's exactly, that he says he will sell me for 500 with the vortec intake and roller rockers. I have yet to look at them to see the quality but everything i read looks like they are quality. I would much rather go with them than patching these junky 882 heads but i'm just not sure what i can afford at this very moment.

[mud bros]

you will love the vortec heads!

you will love the 40-50hp increase and a due to bigger intake ports and 64cc chambers


same deal with the vortec heads tho as far as valve lift goes keep it 500 and under, alto they can take more lift than that running stuff on the edge of its limits never turns out well.

i know the heads have been modified but if you dont test them better to keep them within the stock limits

[Coolball]

Are those heads your looking at assembled already? If not you'll need longer valves and taller springs. Keeping in mind the added cost.