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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2013, 02:46 PM
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If you are not getting codes related to the maf or lean codes you can do more damage than good trying to clean it. I would see if the codes come back. I still think you have grounds missing somewhere. You had circuit codes on several sensors. This is usually a broken ground or missing voltage issue. Standards and automatics from what i have seen have grounds on the transmission bolts. Grounding the body to the engine as you did may have partially solved the issue by supplying a non direct path to ground.
One thing you could do if you have a volt meter is check to see what the voltage is on the map sensor between the b+ and ground IN THE CONNECTOR.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2013, 02:53 PM
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What is a VSS?
Vehicle Speed Sensor.Controls shift points or shift light with stick shifts,dash control,in part also controls fuel curve and spark advance along with crank sensors.Because it is a replacement trans,the last touch theory might come into play.
A easy way to detect a clogged cat is to pull the upstream O2 and run it like that re-leaving the back pressure.If that resolves the issue then the cat is clogged.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2013, 02:57 PM
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Just took a look at the ground distribution on that vehicle. Seems the grounds are on the front right of the engine. One set is attached low on the block and the other set is on the front of the right head. I believe the low ones are also where the battery cable is attached. It does not appear on that truck there are grounds on the bell housing. Sorry to send you on a witch hunt
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:14 PM
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Yes It was running fine. Till I pulled out the transmission. No codes yet. It's starting to do the same thing again popping and running rough. While driving. seems like it was to brake down on the side of the road. I Think its getting too much gas. I am wondering if its the Ignition Control Module even though its new. Has anyone gotten bad parts At Auto Zone?
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:21 PM
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I found one ground on the Right front. That's where my battery terminal is. And there is one down by the starter. But that one is hard to get too. and also is broken. But would that matter even though I have both heads grounded .
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:08 PM
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I cleaned my MaF that didn't change anything. my speedo works fine. My rpms jump. What would cause It.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tommyboy8072002 View Post
I found one ground on the Right front. That's where my battery terminal is. And there is one down by the starter. But that one is hard to get too. and also is broken. But would that matter even though I have both heads grounded .
Yes they are all important
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:18 PM
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Thanks I will fix the grounds. how do you clean a rusty distributor?
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:22 PM
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OK Guys I checked all of my grounds. I know someone was saying that it might be a Vehicle Speed Sensor
would that throw a code or no. And when I unplug it. The motors still runs the same.
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Old 03-19-2013, 04:13 PM
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Well I changed the vss. New Ground wires And still doing it. So I Think I am going to sell it. Or convert it to a 7.3 diesel.
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:39 PM
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if its a vortec , it may be developing a problem in the poppet (injectors)
you could run some seafoam or chevron with techron through it to see if that helps.
Just dump some in a 1/4 tank ( I like to dose it heavy) and drive till almost empty, then fill up and dump another can in it. Drive it a while, see if it clears up after a while , if not maybe it will set a code and help aim your diagnostics in the right direction.
Good move doing a tune up first. Nothing I hate worse than trying to diagnose a driveability problem with all the regualer maintenance items in the questionable area. Eliminating them is must for any good diagnosis.
Inspecting and / or replacement is needed.
Good luck.
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:56 PM
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At this point you need to pull all the spark plugs out, keep them in order that they were removed and look at them. Are some black and some clean? If so...the injectors would be a problem.
If you have a scanner that gives live data, look at the fuel trims and the injector pulse width.First look to see if they are both pretty close to each other.
A fuel trim that is going - > 5% ( like - 25% for instance) on one bank that means the PCM is trying to correct for a rich running problem limited to one side of the engine.
Most likely leaky injectors.
If the trim is going + > 5% ( Like +25% ) that means it is adding fuel to correct for a lean condition , like an intake leak for instance. Trims run from data supplied by the oxygen sensors, so if trims are moving, sensors are working.
Cylinders 6 and 8 burning plug wires may be indicative of excessive heat, from excessive fuel, caused by leaky injectors. Just sayin. Check it out post back here. LA Tech
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:04 PM
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Thanks LA TECH. I will check the plugs and also see if I know someone that has a scanner. I have been driving the truck for awhile now. And still hasn't brought up a code. I did forget to plug in my Wiring for reverse lights at the very top of the transmission. But I don't know if that has something to do with it or not. Anyways I am going to drop down the transmission a little bit and plug it in. I am also going to look for grounds while I do that. Hey LATECH do you know what the ohms suppose to be on the EGR valve and on the map sensor..?

Thanks again
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:27 AM
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I did something the other day to mine that helped. Bought a 3/8" OD hose about 3 feet long at Lowes. Removed the air cleaner assy. Started it and put one end of the hose in my ear, the other I moved around all of the gaskets and sensors(wiggled the MAP sensor) listening for a hissing sound. Found two leaks. One was the MAP sensors "bellows", the other was a broken o-ring on the hose adapter that plugs into the manifold that goes to the brake booster.
Runs better and only cost about a buck for the hose. 3 bucks for the o-ring.
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2013, 09:32 AM
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Well I changed the vss. New Ground wires And still doing it. So I Think I am going to sell it. Or convert it to a 7.3 diesel.
I suggested ground wires on the head because several years ago we built a 351 Ford powered kit Ferrari California Special which uses an MSD ignition system. The owner doesn't like the multiplicity of ground wires and keeps removing them. We've been through a couple, three fried MSD boxes already as a result. He was back a couple months ago with symptoms very similar to yours so I replaced the box and built new head grounds; again! Problem solved for now. So in your case, if it's high voltage getting back into the MSD from a lack of head grounds, the electronics are fried, maybe not out to lunch, but certainly limping.

This is not to say there aren't other causes or contributors that I don't know and can't answer because it isn't my head under your trucks hood.

I will say after having sat unused for some time it could be the injectors or the poppet’s at the end of the injection tubes, the failure of the poppet’s is well documented for the Vortec engine. A cleaner sometimes helps if it's gunk that can be dissolved and washed away, if it isn't or doesn't, the problem will remain. It was suggested that you look at the plugs this can be helpful. Certainly a poppet that's dribbling will show as a fuel wetted plug this can be black carbon to gas wet. A poppet that isn't lifting would probably result in a cylinder not firing or not firing hot enough to keep the plug clean so the plug would most likely be oily wet, maybe a bit fuel wet as well. But this can be a bad cam, lifter or valve as well. A miss firing ignition will probably show wetness on several to all the plugs. A vacuum leak will dry the mixture out make it look lean, one or more of the plugs will be light to white in color where the mixture is lean resulting in a high operating temperature in that cylinder. Keep in mind that checking plugs that are in a failing engine can be deceiving because in many cases the engine can't be run enough to bring it to operating temperature nor put operating loads on it, this will result in the plugs appearing carboned or even wet. It can also lead to conductive paths on the insulator so the plug doesn't perform correctly even though the root cause problem of the engine has been fixed; new plugs would be required in this case. Which is something you’ve already done with no improvement? Not to say it won't need a fresh set again, just pointing this out.

Bogie
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