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Bucking and jerking not running right

13K views 105 replies 12 participants last post by  tommyboy8072002 
#1 · (Edited)
HI I have a 1996 Chevy C3500 5.7 manual transmission. I let the truck sit for 4 to 5 months to have my transmission rebuilt. Drove the truck for the first time after all of the work was done. Broke down and was running like crap so I changed the following Plugs, wires , rotor , cap , fuel flitter, Ignition control module and coil ... I also put fuel treatment in the gas tank and went with high octane with non ethanol fuel. Still not running right bucking and jerking when under a load. with high rpms runs fine. NO CODES. I don't understand ran fine the day I parked it
:confused:
 
#2 ·
HI I have a 1996 Chevy C3500 5.7 manual transmission. I let the truck sit for 4 to 5 months to have my transmission rebuilt. Drove the truck for the first time after all of the work was done. Broke down and was running like crap so I changed the following Plugs, wires , rotor , cap , fuel flitter Ignition control module and coil ... I also put fuel treatment in the gas tank and went with high octane with non ethanol fuel. Still not running right bucking and jerking when under a load. with high rpms runs fine. I don't understand ran fine the day I parked it
:confused:
What kind of plugs did you put in it? What did you gap them at? If the motor has alot of miles (100k+) I would put platinum plugs in it.
 
#8 ·
Egr

Are you getting a RPM surge at idle? You can test the EGR with a hand held vacuum pump. First see if it holds vacuum. You can remove it and clean it. You can unplug the vacuum line and see how it runs. You can remove it and see if the plunger even moves or if its siezed up. See if will hold a vacuum first. Cant hurt to spray some carb cleaner around all your vacuum lines while its running to see if you may have a vacuum leak anywhere. Start there and work your way to removing and cleaning the EGR valve. Not a bad job on a small block chevy. Let me know what you find.
 
#11 ·
if its a vortec , it may be developing a problem in the poppet (injectors)
you could run some seafoam or chevron with techron through it to see if that helps.
Just dump some in a 1/4 tank ( I like to dose it heavy) and drive till almost empty, then fill up and dump another can in it. Drive it a while, see if it clears up after a while , if not maybe it will set a code and help aim your diagnostics in the right direction.
Good move doing a tune up first. Nothing I hate worse than trying to diagnose a driveability problem with all the regualer maintenance items in the questionable area. Eliminating them is must for any good diagnosis.
Inspecting and / or replacement is needed.:thumbup:
Good luck.:cool:
 
#71 ·
if its a vortec , it may be developing a problem in the poppet (injectors)
you could run some seafoam or chevron with techron through it to see if that helps.
Just dump some in a 1/4 tank ( I like to dose it heavy) and drive till almost empty, then fill up and dump another can in it. Drive it a while, see if it clears up after a while , if not maybe it will set a code and help aim your diagnostics in the right direction.
Good move doing a tune up first. Nothing I hate worse than trying to diagnose a driveability problem with all the regualer maintenance items in the questionable area. Eliminating them is must for any good diagnosis.
Inspecting and / or replacement is needed.:thumbup:
Good luck.:cool:
Bumpity Bump
 
#17 ·
I dumped a bottle of seafoam. I also only put in a 1/4 of tank of gas . I am not sure how many seafoam bottles/cans I can put in at once. I also double checked the plugs that I put in. And I did notice that they are copper plugs. I bought new ones again. But this time I made sure they are Platinum AcDelco plugs .
 
#18 ·
1 can of Seafoam for that 1/4 tank. Replace your plugs then start it up and run it. Alter RPMs a bit to cycle the Seafoam through the system. It really does work to clean out injectors. Hopefully that will clean it out good. Dont be afraid to run it around the block a few times and hit WOT (wide open throttle). If that doesn't do it I'm afraid you'll have to start pulling injectors out. They could've gotten gummed up from sitting for a bit. You know these high quality fuels they sell now...LOL
 
#20 ·
It is za 96.

Pull data stream from the obd port.

for 10 on ebay you can get a slick Bluetooth interface obd device. Comes with software for pc/phone/mac. Scanmaster on PC will work nicely.

If your pc doesn't have Bluetooth usb adapter, att and datalink both are running promotions to get free usb Bluetooth. Bluetooth is not wifi.





You will see whats going on.

Bucking, I can think ofa bunch of guesses.
 

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#23 ·
It is a Bluetooth obd/elm327 interface. Search Bluetooth obd. I have connected with all kinds of devices . If your online, you know how to setup a new connection. The only OS that I had trouble with is Linux.

With a laptop or nearby pc scanmaster will pull data stream, live sensor value /actuator status , code scan, performance data, 0-60 1/4 mile off the vss, etc. Fun stuff is the maps and graphs. If you know what should be happening you can diagnose at a glance. Check off bunches of suspects, when diagnosing faults.

Torque is good too.

Live timing , af ratio, fuel psi, iat, map, etc.
 
#26 ·
It does more than pull codes.

Data logging for $10. I would have paid $10 to use it as a universal gauge set. The live timing is nice too. When I found out it could check the AC system high side and low side pressure, that made me believe I got my moneys worth.
 
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