HI I have a 1996 Chevy C3500 5.7 manual transmission. I let the truck sit for 4 to 5 months to have my transmission rebuilt. Drove the truck for the first time after all of the work was done. Broke down and was running like crap so I changed the following Plugs, wires , rotor , cap , fuel flitter, Ignition control module and coil ... I also put fuel treatment in the gas tank and went with high octane with non ethanol fuel. Still not running right bucking and jerking when under a load. with high rpms runs fine. NO CODES. I don't understand ran fine the day I parked it
HI I have a 1996 Chevy C3500 5.7 manual transmission. I let the truck sit for 4 to 5 months to have my transmission rebuilt. Drove the truck for the first time after all of the work was done. Broke down and was running like crap so I changed the following Plugs, wires , rotor , cap , fuel flitter Ignition control module and coil ... I also put fuel treatment in the gas tank and went with high octane with non ethanol fuel. Still not running right bucking and jerking when under a load. with high rpms runs fine. I don't understand ran fine the day I parked it
Should I un plug the EGR valve to check it. Or do I have to do something else to see if its working or not... sorry don't remember how to check to see if its working or not...
Are you getting a RPM surge at idle? You can test the EGR with a hand held vacuum pump. First see if it holds vacuum. You can remove it and clean it. You can unplug the vacuum line and see how it runs. You can remove it and see if the plunger even moves or if its siezed up. See if will hold a vacuum first. Cant hurt to spray some carb cleaner around all your vacuum lines while its running to see if you may have a vacuum leak anywhere. Start there and work your way to removing and cleaning the EGR valve. Not a bad job on a small block chevy. Let me know what you find.
I checked all of the lines and Egr valve seems to be running a little better. But now I have a pop in the Exhaust Manifold driver side every now and then. Never messed with the timing
if its a vortec , it may be developing a problem in the poppet (injectors)
you could run some seafoam or chevron with techron through it to see if that helps.
Just dump some in a 1/4 tank ( I like to dose it heavy) and drive till almost empty, then fill up and dump another can in it. Drive it a while, see if it clears up after a while , if not maybe it will set a code and help aim your diagnostics in the right direction.
Good move doing a tune up first. Nothing I hate worse than trying to diagnose a driveability problem with all the regualer maintenance items in the questionable area. Eliminating them is must for any good diagnosis.
Inspecting and / or replacement is needed.:thumbup:
Good luck.
if its a vortec , it may be developing a problem in the poppet (injectors)
you could run some seafoam or chevron with techron through it to see if that helps.
Just dump some in a 1/4 tank ( I like to dose it heavy) and drive till almost empty, then fill up and dump another can in it. Drive it a while, see if it clears up after a while , if not maybe it will set a code and help aim your diagnostics in the right direction.
Good move doing a tune up first. Nothing I hate worse than trying to diagnose a driveability problem with all the regualer maintenance items in the questionable area. Eliminating them is must for any good diagnosis.
Inspecting and / or replacement is needed.:thumbup:
Good luck.
Have a question what about fire ball I noticed that one of the parts stores Carrie it. Should I try that or get the other stuff that you mentioned.. Thanks ...
I agree with Latech on this one. Run a heavy dose of Seafoam through it. It is sounding more and more like a injector issue. It could cause RPM surging and also a popping in the exhaust
I dumped a bottle of seafoam. I also only put in a 1/4 of tank of gas . I am not sure how many seafoam bottles/cans I can put in at once. I also double checked the plugs that I put in. And I did notice that they are copper plugs. I bought new ones again. But this time I made sure they are Platinum AcDelco plugs .
1 can of Seafoam for that 1/4 tank. Replace your plugs then start it up and run it. Alter RPMs a bit to cycle the Seafoam through the system. It really does work to clean out injectors. Hopefully that will clean it out good. Dont be afraid to run it around the block a few times and hit WOT (wide open throttle). If that doesn't do it I'm afraid you'll have to start pulling injectors out. They could've gotten gummed up from sitting for a bit. You know these high quality fuels they sell now...LOL
Never mind I found it on ebay. I have a code reader. That I bought from auto zone. But that don't pin point what's wrong with it. When there is no codes to read. Lol
It is a Bluetooth obd/elm327 interface. Search Bluetooth obd. I have connected with all kinds of devices . If your online, you know how to setup a new connection. The only OS that I had trouble with is Linux.
With a laptop or nearby pc scanmaster will pull data stream, live sensor value /actuator status , code scan, performance data, 0-60 1/4 mile off the vss, etc. Fun stuff is the maps and graphs. If you know what should be happening you can diagnose at a glance. Check off bunches of suspects, when diagnosing faults.
Data logging for $10. I would have paid $10 to use it as a universal gauge set. The live timing is nice too. When I found out it could check the AC system high side and low side pressure, that made me believe I got my moneys worth.
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