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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2012, 03:41 PM
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Aside from all the negative responses, THANK you guys for the helpful info. And hccompton thanks to you for the helpful advice. I will try to post some pics. Like one of the guys said I'm interested in some old american iron, and I'm just looking for a flight plan. Last thing I want to do is save up for 6 months buy some highs performance parts that sound like they'd be good and slap the motor together getting resulting a SBC that doesn't run worth sh**.

Like one of you said I need to invest in some tools, I have some mics and calipers at home, but I've been looking at some other "blueprinting" tools. If all else fails I have a 2 year certificate in machining and welding each. So I'm sure my teachers would be more than happy to lend me some precision instruments.

Plain toast do you have the info on the 513hp sbc?

I'm replying off of my phone so its difficult to go back and reply to each post. I'm trying my best to reply though.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2012, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbckillion View Post
Aside from all the negative responses, THANK you guys for the helpful info. And hccompton thanks to you for the helpful advice. I will try to post some pics. Like one of the guys said I'm interested in some old american iron, and I'm just looking for a flight plan. Last thing I want to do is save up for 6 months buy some highs performance parts that sound like they'd be good and slap the motor together getting resulting a SBC that doesn't run worth sh**.

Like one of you said I need to invest in some tools, I have some mics and calipers at home, but I've been looking at some other "blueprinting" tools. If all else fails I have a 2 year certificate in machining and welding each. So I'm sure my teachers would be more than happy to lend me some precision instruments.

Plain toast do you have the info on the 513hp sbc?

I'm replying off of my phone so its difficult to go back and reply to each post. I'm trying my best to reply though.
the specifics i have filed away at the shop but most of it i remember.
basics are .030" over 350 block, scat crank and i beam rods, floated pin.
5.7" rod length, i prefer to not run oil ring spacers given the choice.
mahle forged pistons, flat top two valve relief with 1.5 ring pack.
heads were afr 195 heads, untouched and bolted on. 10.2:1 compression.
cam was an erson solid flat tappet, i believe 246 duration.
roller rockers, vic Jr intake.
a pretty simple, basic engine really built with decent quality parts, nothing exotic.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2012, 05:05 PM
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Aside from all the negative responses, THANK you guys for the helpful info. And hccompton thanks to you for the helpful advice. I will try to post some pics. Like one of the guys said I'm interested in some old american iron, and I'm just looking for a flight plan. Last thing I want to do is save up for 6 months buy some highs performance parts that sound like they'd be good and slap the motor together getting resulting a SBC that doesn't run worth sh**.

Like one of you said I need to invest in some tools, I have some mics and calipers at home, but I've been looking at some other "blueprinting" tools. If all else fails I have a 2 year certificate in machining and welding each. So I'm sure my teachers would be more than happy to lend me some precision instruments.

Plain toast do you have the info on the 513hp sbc?

I'm replying off of my phone so its difficult to go back and reply to each post. I'm trying my best to reply though.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2012, 05:17 PM
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Sorry guys don't know why it keeps posting the same reply.
I have a question I've been wondering... I see all these 355sbc builds online but no 360sbc builds, so if I were to use a 355 build sheet as a guide, what would the results look like?
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2012, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by sbckillion View Post
Sorry guys don't know why it keeps posting the same reply.
I have a question I've been wondering... I see all these 355sbc builds online but no 360sbc builds, so if I were to use a 355 build sheet as a guide, what would the results look like?
pretty much the exact same. 5ci ain't going to make a lot of difference.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2012, 05:51 PM
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Sounds like you need a 350 hp 350 with a 150 shot of NO2.


350 + 150 = 500 hp. -just in case math wasn't your fav subject.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2012, 06:15 PM
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Thanks Compton, I may just have to buy the max perf. Book looks very helpful
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2012, 09:57 PM
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here is the pictures of the pistons.

https://mail-attachment.googleuserco...Dxn8g&sadssc=1


https://mail-attachment.googleuserco...pUTWS6LhHtenGs
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbckillion View Post
This is what I have

350 block .60 over
Stock connecting rods
Flat top 4 valve relief pistons (I'm pretty sire they're off brand)
Edelbrock victor Jr. Intake
Dart iron eagle ss heads
Stock 350 crank turned ten thousandths under
Hold on a minute. Before you can know what it is you need to do, you need to know what the heads are- exactly. Just saying Iron Eagle SS doesn't tell the whole story.

There are several different Iron Eagle SS heads. Some are 1.94" intake x 1.5" exhaust valve size, others have the 2.02" x 1.6" valves. They can have a 67, 72, or 76cc chamber size. They can have the '86- back intake bolt pattern, or the '87-'95 72 degree center bolt angle pattern or the Vortec pattern, although this shouldn't be an issue if the intake you have matches the heads. So start by seeing exactly what it is you have to work with.

Generally speaking, these heads as cast are good for around 450 hp or maybe a little more if the parts that go w/them (cam, compression, etc.) are chosen carefully.

The problem w/making big power w/these heads is the relatively small 165cc port volume/cross section. Now, if you wanted to build it to make 400 HP and add a 100 shot of nitrous, that's doable w/o any drama, other than a proper set up and tune. But 500 hp naturally aspirated is not going to come easy, at least not as cast, or as easy as a different head would be- like the Platinum series.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 09:32 AM
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(to know how much horse power your heads can produce,you need to flow test them.)

post number 13
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Hold on a minute. Before you can know what it is you need to do, you need to know what the heads are- exactly. Just saying Iron Eagle SS doesn't tell the whole story.

There are several different Iron Eagle SS heads. Some are 1.94" intake x 1.5" exhaust valve size, others have the 2.02" x 1.6" valves. They can have a 67, 72, or 76cc chamber size. They can have the '86- back intake bolt pattern, or the '87-'95 72 degree center bolt angle pattern or the Vortec pattern, although this shouldn't be an issue if the intake you have matches the heads. So start by seeing exactly what it is you have to work with.

Generally speaking, these heads as cast are good for around 450 hp or maybe a little more if the parts that go w/them (cam, compression, etc.) are chosen carefully.

The problem w/making big power w/these heads is the relatively small 165cc port volume/cross section. Now, if you wanted to build it to make 400 HP and add a 100 shot of nitrous, that's doable w/o any drama, other than a proper set up and tune. But 500 hp naturally aspirated is not going to come easy, at least not as cast, or as easy as a different head would be- like the Platinum series.
Vales are 2.02 x 1.60
Combustion chamber 67cc

Supposidly the heads have been shaved so I'll try to cc them tonight if I have time. And how do you figure the intake runner size?
Also how do you know which bolt pattern it its.
10024267- part number
ID code is 21
I got this info from dart block and identification website but I did measure the valves myself.
The chart says these heads have heat crossover and " .125 has been removed from rocker stand for use with guide plates".

Here is the link
Identifying Dart Heads and Blocks | Dartheads.com
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 12:02 PM
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If I told you to put a 4 bbl carb on your engine,wouldnt you ask what size?

If I said use a holley,wouldnt you ask what size?
If I said take the choke out for racing,wouldnt you still want to know what size?

If you dont know what the heads flow,how can you make 500 hp?
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
If I told you to put a 4 bbl carb on your engine,wouldnt you ask what size?

If I said use a holley,wouldnt you ask what size?
If I said take the choke out for racing,wouldnt you still want to know what size?

If you dont know what the heads flow,how can you make 500 hp?
Im not sure what you mean?
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Sounds like your on the right track dispite the crappy advice you have gotten.

Flat tops that arent marked are usally good ones not cheap ones. All cheap rebuilder pistons are marked under the skirt or head of the piston.

Can you show us a picture of the piston heads. So i can see what the four valve reliefs look like. Maybe able to figure your compression ratio.

Since you dont have cr numbers your not getting the correct info needed to proceed. With good compression and no other big problems you have the parts to build a 400 hp combo. Just stab in a comp cam 294s solid flat cam and lifters. This will get you at 400 range and 100 shot of n2o and your at your goal.

To make 500hp with out turbos or nos you will need to spend a lot more cash. Also its a lot easier if your running e85 or race gas. Snce 11:1 compression is needed for a flat 500 with only 360 cubes. This will also need aluminum heads and high rpm rotating assembly. You can get 400 out of most junk yard short blocks but 500 is a hard number to hit when the budget is tight.

Also no reason your 400 hp combo wont take a 200 shot of juice. And put you into the 600 range. But since you dont have a car i would go for the 400 combo then tweak things up once its in the car and runing at the track.

Most fast cars at the drag strip ran a 14 on day one. Then worked with tuning and tweaking until they cpuld push then kicking and screaming into the 10s or 9s whatever the owner can get out of his combo.

Fox body mustangs are fast at the track and dont require a massize amount of suspension updates but will still need some work as any car will to run a fast number. Plus it drives ford guys nuts to see a mustang running good with a chevy motor.
i posted the pics of the pistons. i found the numbers and with a lot of google searcing i found them. they are enginetech pistons.


They are cast, stock-type replacement with a flat head and 4-Valve reliefs
5/64" Top Comp Ring
5/64" (2nd ) Comp Ring
3/16" deep Oil Ring
Comp. Ht = 1.540"
Pin Dia = .9273"
Engintech Part no. P1534.060
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 12:33 PM
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You need to take the heads,1 set of valves with springs and retainers to someone that has a flow bench.That tech will put a big vacuum on your heads and test how much air he can pull through your castings at a few different set valve lifts. The numbers,expressed in CFM( cubic feet per minute) will tell you what lift cam you need/want and will give you an idea how much horse power can be extracted from those heads.Your job then is to match the short block,intake and exhaust manifolds and fuel management system to give those numbers.
You want you exhaust flow on the heads to be at least 75% of the intake numbers or you will need exhaust side work and or a split duration cam. The intake flow number time about 2 will give you the potential number of street hp available,,,
example: if your castings flow 235 cfm on the intake side and the exhaust side flows around 190 cfm,then that engine could make 470 hp with careful planning,or over 500 if the engine builder really does an excellent job matching parts
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sbckillion (12-09-2012)

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