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Short-Bed Chevy 07-12-2012 01:26 PM

budget build SBC
 
So i just turned 16 and my dad and i was planing on doing a budget build for my 89 short bed chevy(single cab). i don't really care about speed as long as it will do 100mph i just want torque mainly. Right now all i got done to my 350 is hooker long tube headers, stage 2 shift kit(700r tranny), and 373 gears(posi). But we are on a $2000 budget. As of right now this is what I'm planning on doing to this:
Pro Comp 190 heads
Professional Products Intake
Holly carb.(don't know witch one yet though
Comp Cam XR282HR (maybe put a bigger cam though)
Summit Racing Pushrods 7.4"

but i was want to know what you guys think i should do because i want it as like a hotrod truck. (by the way i don't care about gas)

ap72 07-12-2012 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Short-Bed Chevy (Post 1573189)
So i just turned 16 and my dad and i was planing on doing a budget build for my 89 short bed chevy(single cab). i don't really care about speed as long as it will do 100mph i just want torque mainly. Right now all i got done to my 350 is hooker long tube headers, stage 2 shift kit(700r tranny), and 373 gears(posi). But we are on a $2000 budget. As of right now this is what I'm planning on doing to this:
Pro Comp 190 heads
Professional Products Intake
Holly carb.(don't know witch one yet though
Comp Cam XR282HR (maybe put a bigger cam though)
Summit Racing Pushrods 7.4"

but i was want to know what you guys think i should do because i want it as like a hotrod truck. (by the way i don't care about gas)

Isn't your truck TBI? If so just get a bigblock TBI unit, port and polish it, and wire in an MS unit- it'll save you a lot of trouble and gas down the road. Pushrods cant be bought until you have the cam and heads on so you can measure for the correct length, each application is different. You need a SMALLER cam if you want a lot of torque.

I would get the heads, get a used RPM intake, a used bigblock TBI, a good SMALLER roller cam, megasquirt, and a flat top piston rebuild kit (make sure they have the correct height). By the time your done that will come to around 2 grand. If done well in that big truck you can be knocking on 20 mpg's on the highway and PLENTY of torque.

78 monte 07-12-2012 01:44 PM

I'd go with a smaller cam if it were mine. More like Comp EX 268 cam,Performer Intake and Holley 600cfm vac secondary carb. Evan with the stock heads it should give ya a nice kick in the pants for your first engine.

spinn 07-12-2012 01:50 PM

One of the first things is maintain 100mph, or get too as you cross the trap?

These days the people still playing are doing it dirt cheap with turbos / supercharghers and stock cams. Less than $1000 in a 450 hp build. No strokers stockish, 305's and 350's. Very street friendly reliable builds.

First hand people add 2.02 valves, headers, and cams over .450 lift . That stuff is only going to help you feel the speed after 3500rpm. Under 3500 the stall speed rating 2400-3200 is going to take up the slack. Gears like 3.73-4.10 are the ticket if you pay the penalty of higher cruise rpm. Not to worry if you have a 700r4, but repair costs and complexity for repair just multiplied by x4 .

headers are overrated. Tap a 0-15 fuel psi gauge before your muffler and find the back pressure. That determines how free flowing your exhaust is. Headers may do nothing at all.

Holleys and 268xe cams are not magic, and possibly not what you want.

78 monte 07-12-2012 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinn (Post 1573197)

Holleys and 268xe cams are not magic, and possibly not what you want.

Mine are magic they specialize in the disappearing fuel trick..........

Short-Bed Chevy 07-12-2012 02:02 PM

So are you saying get a big block or get the big block tbi system sorry just got a little confused there

Short-Bed Chevy 07-12-2012 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinn (Post 1573197)
One of the first things is maintain 100mph, or get too as you cross the trap?

These days the people still playing are doing it dirt cheap with turbos / supercharghers and stock cams. Less than $1000 in a 450 hp build. No strokers stockish, 305's and 350's. Very street friendly reliable builds.

First hand people add 2.02 valves, headers, and cams over .450 lift . That stuff is only going to help you feel the speed after 3500rpm. Under 3500 the stall speed rating 2400-3200 is going to take up the slack. Gears like 3.73-4.10 are the ticket if you pay the penalty of higher cruise rpm. Not to worry if you have a 700r4, but repair costs and complexity for repair just multiplied by x4 .

headers are overrated. Tap a 0-15 fuel psi gauge before your muffler and find the back pressure. That determines how free flowing your exhaust is. Headers may do nothing at all.

Holleys and 268xe cams are not magic, and possibly not what you want.

maintain 100mph i mean i won't be doing it but i want it to if i need to

327NUT 07-12-2012 02:10 PM

He didn't say get a big block, he said get a big block TBI unit.

Short-Bed Chevy 07-12-2012 02:16 PM

sorry about that i read it wrong

ap72 07-12-2012 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinn (Post 1573197)
headers are overrated. Tap a 0-15 fuel psi gauge before your muffler and find the back pressure. That determines how free flowing your exhaust is. Headers may do nothing at all.

nothing like pure, fresh, warm HORSE ****.

Headers are one of the BEST parts you can purchase for your car, the next being everything behind them.

Get properly sized headers.

78 monte 07-12-2012 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ap72 (Post 1573208)
nothing like pure, fresh, warm HORSE ****.

Headers are one of the BEST parts you can purchase for your car, the next being everything behind them.

Get properly sized headers.

Agreed Headers are usually the first mod to an engine.Use 1 5/8 primaries on the street with a mild motor.My car has a mild 350 build but my headers are 1 3/4 primaries(hard to find parts to build 1 5/8 and already had tubes)and it kinda makes the lowend response spongy.

spinn 07-12-2012 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ap72 (Post 1573208)
nothing like pure, fresh, warm HORSE ****.

Headers are one of the BEST parts you can purchase for your car, the next being everything behind them.

Get properly sized headers.

Did you ever use a manometer and determine your back pressure. That determines your exhaust flow. That is not crap.

Some people bolt on headers and claim magnificent gains. I never saw.

I have had the luxury to play with dynometers for a long time. Unfortuneately never really using them going past 6000 rpm. For me and hydraulic cams that seemd like a threshold for power . A wall if you pass there are serious expensive changes, first being fuel. 93 octane did not do any good past 6000.

Money is power and makes the power. That is also a solid truth. What are you doing and how far are you going. 100mph through the traps is not far.

ap72 07-12-2012 04:53 PM

So you tried booking up a manometer infront of a muffler and didn't do more than make a mess? Headers are not used for exhaust flow, they're used for intake flow...

F-BIRD'88 07-12-2012 05:12 PM

Does this truck have to be emissions laws compliant?
What engine block are you starting with?
new w factory roller cam or older pre 1987 with flat tappet cam only.

You already have good long tube headers but what is the rest of the exhaust system?

spinn 07-12-2012 06:02 PM

Would you consider a 144 roots style under hood supercharger? You have the headers, gear, and overdive trans at stage 2 to back it up. I just rebuild and sold one for a little over $1200. Common to find good complete units under $1000. That is plenty left over for a cam/spring and carb purchase.

You would make a ton more torque and power than big heads and xr284.

My 85 c10 pictured has a 305 vortec 906 heads, Summit headers, and a new E force unit with performer cam. It is pretty exciting. Launches like frogs from a dynomite filled pond. 3.73 gear, dynamic 3000 stall, TH350c w RV level shift kit. .


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