Buffing Advice - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2006, 01:45 PM
X711
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 321
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I purchased a buffer for $50 from the local store. Its identical to the high
cost makita with variable speed to 3000 RPM.

IMHO its better to use a buffer as opposed to a da for buffing and polishing.

The pads I use are wool and are made by Presta. I found using the green wool pad with the presta light cutting compound to work very well after color sanding first. I then use the presta 1500 polish, again on a clean green wool pad and finish it all of with the blue wool pad..

I found the foam pads to be slow, with a tendency to try jump around on
the panel. Good quality twisted pads are the way to go.

Works pretty good !

><
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	C17.jpg
Views:	155
Size:	133.4 KB
ID:	11863  

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-11-2006, 05:47 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pa
Posts: 23
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Springer pretty much nailed it in his 1st post. I would caution that if you have not used a rotary before be very careful.. They build up heat and will burn your paint or cause swirls that you can not get out. Wool pads are for cutting only then move to foam. Always keep pads moist...do not let them dry or you will have problems. The DA is a great tool and will give yuo results you will never be able to get by hand so use it often.
If you go to any large events and you see the Meguiars truucks there stop by and we can walk you through any other questions or problems you have or go to www.meguiars.com. The customer care group are a great bunch and you will always talk with a human not a machine
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2006, 04:20 AM
milo's Avatar
point on positive
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: milogarage Calif.
Age: 58
Posts: 1,681
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
I know it might sound a little funny to those who already have buffing down to a science but... ... If your new to the buffer and you use the mini size pads that are about 3 or 4 inches in diameter to do a whole car because of the diameter they don't burn or leave swirl marks and would help you get the feel with control instead of luck ....


It will take longer of course but if the best possible result is the goal and a redo is not an option... ..
Get some of these for your detail cart.


check this link... ...

Paint buffing equipment


Last edited by milo; 05-12-2006 at 04:28 AM. Reason: can not spell still ,,lol
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2006, 06:11 AM
jcclark's Avatar
The Penny Pincher
 

Last journal entry: Hanging Bumpers
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, Ky. U.S.A.
Age: 61
Posts: 1,884
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 23 Times in 19 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
I am by no means an expert.
Yea, right. If you're not an expert I don't know what one is.

"I am not a professional, so maybe one of them will chime in with some particulars." Aaron

Isn't it ironic how the real talent on this site claims to not be "experts",
Old Red, Aaron,....... TAG!!! you're it
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2006, 06:46 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,840
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
Milo, that is why I really like the Porter Cable buffer/sander. It's smaller foam pads are easier to get into the smaler area's and it is virtually impossible to do any damage to the the clear. Yes, it takes a lot longer to buff out a fresh color sand job, but I have lots more time than money so it's not a problem.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2006, 07:18 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2005
Location: WI
Posts: 107
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for all the advice. I ended up buying a buffer and using a 3M foam pad and some 3M compound (perfect it I think). One thing that really helped. I wet sanded with 1500 and then used a round 3000 grit perfect it pad on my DA. Made finishing the wet sanding really good. Buffing turned out great. I then did some finish work with Meguiars #7 and a foam pad on my da. Worked great.

One question, What works the best for keeping the foam pads cleam of build up?

Thanks,
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2006, 08:16 AM
jcclark's Avatar
The Penny Pincher
 

Last journal entry: Hanging Bumpers
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, Ky. U.S.A.
Age: 61
Posts: 1,884
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 23 Times in 19 Posts
Meguiars has a tool for that, I just use an old toothbrush.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2006, 08:11 PM
adtkart@aol.com
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 3,220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
jcclark... If you take one of those cheap, economy type paint brushes, cut the brissles about half the length, they work good for cleaning the stuff when it is dried. That way your wife isn't looking around for "her" toothbrush that you keep taking. No wonder you have an electric blanket in the garage! LOL

Aaron
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2006, 02:52 PM
ep50merc's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 20
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
MY air compresor isn't strong enough for DA sander what problem will i run in to if i use a angel grinder?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2006, 03:08 PM
shine's Avatar
SPI Thug
 

Last journal entry: some progress
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: bluff dale texas
Posts: 2,766
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 247 Times in 197 Posts
i buff at low speed, 1000 to 1300 . i use sand paper instead of wool now days. the longer you sand the less it takes to polish. the 3m system works really well.

i aint no pro. just a hick farmer that paints.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2006, 03:28 PM
Bee4Me's Avatar
Problem Child,Hard Case
 

Last journal entry: Strangest job I've ever done
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ARK.
Age: 57
Posts: 1,773
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I had an interestering discussion the other day at the store about people going BACK to a wool pad with the newer waterbase compounds like 3m's 3000 due to the foam pads not cutting which was due to the waterbase having no solvents to cut with and the "microsphere" technology, and having much better luck with these waterbase one's.
I have not used any myself cause PerfectIt II is hard to beat IMO and even the III dosen't "cut" as good IMO as the II with a foam pad.

I don't have a "system" per say,Just use whatever seems to work "best" for the perticular job. Foam and II, Wool and III,Wool and II, Just whichever seems to do best.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2006, 03:44 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,840
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ep50merc
MY air compresor isn't strong enough for DA sander what problem will i run in to if i use a angel grinder?
Burned paint if it does not have a speed control.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2006, 05:38 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pa
Posts: 23
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ep50merc
MY air compresor isn't strong enough for DA sander what problem will i run in to if i use a angel grinder?
The words Grinder and Buff do not go together....you are asking for trouble.
At the low end a paint job will cost you at least $1500 in material plus time at the high end you can put in $20-$25k ....dont you think it is worth the couple hundred or less for a buffer that is desgined to do the job and wont burn it
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #29 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2006, 05:57 AM
jcclark's Avatar
The Penny Pincher
 

Last journal entry: Hanging Bumpers
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, Ky. U.S.A.
Age: 61
Posts: 1,884
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 23 Times in 19 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
jcclark... If you take one of those cheap, economy type paint brushes, cut the brissles about half the length, they work good for cleaning the stuff when it is dried. Aaron
Great tip Aaron, how about posting that as a tip of the day.
I'd be happy to do it for you if you'd like, giving you credit of course.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #30 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2006, 06:03 AM
jcclark's Avatar
The Penny Pincher
 

Last journal entry: Hanging Bumpers
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, Ky. U.S.A.
Age: 61
Posts: 1,884
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 23 Times in 19 Posts
The single biggest improvement to my buffing system was the extra
"sanding" step I now use.
When I'm done with the 2000 grit color sanding I use a
Mirka "Abralon" 4000 grit foam pad and lots of water on my air
sander to finish it off. It goes really fast and gets rid of all the
scratches. It looks like a semi-gloss finish after that and takes
just a little buffing with a mild polish and foam pad.
I don't use a wool pad at all anymore.
It really makes buffing safer and quicker.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
First time buffing Ratchet Body - Exterior 5 11-15-2006 04:51 PM
Vega box - adjustment advice please? Limey Simon Suspension - Brakes - Steering 3 07-23-2005 06:09 PM
advice on where to learn? DC8808 Hotrodders' Lounge 6 05-26-2005 05:28 PM
Help me out here guys...Buffing Q's TurboS10 Body - Exterior 15 12-28-2002 04:33 PM
Clear Coat Sanding and Buffing Q's TurboS10 Body - Exterior 0 12-15-2002 08:28 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.