[x711]

I purchased a buffer for $50 from the local store. Its identical to the high
cost makita with variable speed to 3000 RPM.

IMHO its better to use a buffer as opposed to a da for buffing and polishing.

The pads I use are wool and are made by Presta. I found using the green wool pad with the presta light cutting compound to work very well after color sanding first. I then use the presta 1500 polish, again on a clean green wool pad and finish it all of with the blue wool pad..

I found the foam pads to be slow, with a tendency to try jump around on
the panel. Good quality twisted pads are the way to go.

Works pretty good !

><

[iceburgh]

Springer pretty much nailed it in his 1st post. I would caution that if you have not used a rotary before be very careful.. They build up heat and will burn your paint or cause swirls that you can not get out. Wool pads are for cutting only then move to foam. Always keep pads moist...do not let them dry or you will have problems. The DA is a great tool and will give yuo results you will never be able to get by hand so use it often.
If you go to any large events and you see the Meguiars truucks there stop by and we can walk you through any other questions or problems you have or go to www.meguiars.com. The customer care group are a great bunch and you will always talk with a human not a machine

[milo]

I know it might sound a little funny to those who already have buffing down to a science but... ... If your new to the buffer and you use the mini size pads that are about 3 or 4 inches in diameter to do a whole car because of the diameter they don't burn or leave swirl marks and would help you get the feel with control instead of luck ....


It will take longer of course but if the best possible result is the goal and a redo is not an option... ..
Get some of these for your detail cart.


check this link... ...

Paint buffing equipment

[jcclark]

Originally Posted by oldred

I am by no means an expert.

Yea, right. If you're not an expert I don't know what one is.

"I am not a professional, so maybe one of them will chime in with some particulars." Aaron

Isn't it ironic how the real talent on this site claims to not be "experts",
Old Red, Aaron,....... TAG!!! you're it

[302 Z28]

Milo, that is why I really like the Porter Cable buffer/sander. It's smaller foam pads are easier to get into the smaler area's and it is virtually impossible to do any damage to the the clear. Yes, it takes a lot longer to buff out a fresh color sand job, but I have lots more time than money so it's not a problem.

Vince

[rcm800]

Thanks for all the advice. I ended up buying a buffer and using a 3M foam pad and some 3M compound (perfect it I think). One thing that really helped. I wet sanded with 1500 and then used a round 3000 grit perfect it pad on my DA. Made finishing the wet sanding really good. Buffing turned out great. I then did some finish work with Meguiars #7 and a foam pad on my da. Worked great.

One question, What works the best for keeping the foam pads cleam of build up?

Thanks,

[jcclark]

Meguiars has a tool for that, I just use an old toothbrush.

[adtkart]

jcclark... If you take one of those cheap, economy type paint brushes, cut the brissles about half the length, they work good for cleaning the stuff when it is dried. That way your wife isn't looking around for "her" toothbrush that you keep taking. No wonder you have an electric blanket in the garage! LOL

Aaron

[ep50merc]

MY air compresor isn't strong enough for DA sander what problem will i run in to if i use a angel grinder?

[shine]

i buff at low speed, 1000 to 1300 . i use sand paper instead of wool now days. the longer you sand the less it takes to polish. the 3m system works really well.

i aint no pro. just a hick farmer that paints.

[Bee4Me]

I had an interestering discussion the other day at the store about people going BACK to a wool pad with the newer waterbase compounds like 3m's 3000 due to the foam pads not cutting which was due to the waterbase having no solvents to cut with and the "microsphere" technology, and having much better luck with these waterbase one's.
I have not used any myself cause PerfectIt II is hard to beat IMO and even the III dosen't "cut" as good IMO as the II with a foam pad.

I don't have a "system" per say,Just use whatever seems to work "best" for the perticular job. Foam and II, Wool and III,Wool and II, Just whichever seems to do best.

[302 Z28]

Originally Posted by ep50merc

MY air compresor isn't strong enough for DA sander what problem will i run in to if i use a angel grinder?

Burned paint if it does not have a speed control.

Vince

[iceburgh]

Originally Posted by ep50merc

MY air compresor isn't strong enough for DA sander what problem will i run in to if i use a angel grinder?

The words Grinder and Buff do not go together....you are asking for trouble.
At the low end a paint job will cost you at least $1500 in material plus time at the high end you can put in $20-$25k ....dont you think it is worth the couple hundred or less for a buffer that is desgined to do the job and wont burn it

[jcclark]

Originally Posted by adtkart

jcclark... If you take one of those cheap, economy type paint brushes, cut the brissles about half the length, they work good for cleaning the stuff when it is dried. Aaron

Great tip Aaron, how about posting that as a tip of the day.
I'd be happy to do it for you if you'd like, giving you credit of course.

[jcclark]

The single biggest improvement to my buffing system was the extra
"sanding" step I now use.
When I'm done with the 2000 grit color sanding I use a
Mirka "Abralon" 4000 grit foam pad and lots of water on my air
sander to finish it off. It goes really fast and gets rid of all the
scratches. It looks like a semi-gloss finish after that and takes
just a little buffing with a mild polish and foam pad.
I don't use a wool pad at all anymore.
It really makes buffing safer and quicker.