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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2006, 12:49 PM
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I totally agree with the sanding more buffing less rule. With sanding you're much more in control of surface flatness. I use backing pads/blocks/sticks behind my paper to keep the paint surface flat and straight. On show quality work any trace of urethane peel needs to be cut off before the buffing starts. Even the best as sprayed finish I've ever seen could still be corrected/flattened some with colorsanding. I've seen wool pads cut uneven, make major swirl marks, and cause damage only sanding can correct. Sand it flat and straight, step down your grit washing between rounds untill you reach 3000 or 4000 then buff with a foam pad, then polish with a finishing pad, then final rub by hand. Works for me.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2006, 07:01 PM
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Jim... does that Mirka disk fit the pads for the 3M Hook-it II disks, or would I have to buy another pad?

Another good tool to use is a small air buffer that is sold by CP. They run about $100 for a kit with a neat case, and several different types of pads. They are great for doing small areas, or if you have alot of time on your hands, you could do a whole car. LOL

Aaron
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2006, 08:33 PM
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Aaron, The pads are Mirka's Abralon line and use the regular Hook It pad. The "carpet" is on the Abralon pad so you need a "male" DA pad.
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Old 05-18-2006, 04:43 AM
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Yes, it's a typical "hook & loop" They're 6" dia.
They can be found on Ebay.
Search under "Abralon", I bought a box of 20 for
1/4 the individual price.
Also Smart Shoppers sells them.
I love these pads.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2006, 06:02 AM
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I have the Hook-it, and also the Hook-it II pads. I found out after I bought the Hook-it, that there were 2 different pads. Since the Hook-it and Hook-it II disks are so expensive, I haven't bought any. What I had was given to me. Had hoped I could find another use for the disks. They don't make good frisbys. LOL

Aaron
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2006, 09:25 PM
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I buff out cars and trucks daily at work , have been doing it for a long time. My old work set up was with foam yellow 3m , standard , greay 3m foam finish pads , 3 step , 3m compound , 3m medium compound , and car bite crystal shield. Dewalt buffer.

My new work set up is with Malco products , malco yellow foam pads , and wool finish pad. dewalt buffer , True grit , pro gold.

Personally I LIKE 3M HANDS DOWN TO MALCOS PRODUCTS.

Very easy for a novice buffer to wreak havioc on a paint job. If In doubt take it to a body shop or a detail shop and have a professional do it.
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Old 06-04-2006, 01:34 PM
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Just a note on the Abralon Pads, they work good in removing peel etc from
the paint and the 4000 grit pad will leave a slight shine to the paint that
makes buffing a whole lot easier to do. But in my experience with them they
do not really flatten the paint to a uniform finish. To truly flatten the paint
you can use 3m 1500 finishing film discs followed by 2000 imperial on a long
hard rubber block. Blocking at 45 degrees with the hard block works well.

I would look to hard blocking prior to using the 4000 grit abralon to finish.

The abralon disks can make the paint look shiny but as I said above dont assume that the paint on the panel will be flat when your finished.

Just my 2 cents on this..

><
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Old 06-11-2006, 02:04 PM
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buffers

when you guys are talking about speed control what is the preferred, a trigger control or programable. I got a programable that I not happy with. I wanted a trigger control that I could control. what's a good buffer, I used mine 1 time and am ready to heave it. bought it from harbor freight. had good luck with them in the past but not happy with this purchase.

Ed.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2006, 02:57 PM
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I use a Craftsman that is a 2 speed. It's light and easy to work with.

I know Craftsman is not professional quality but for a hobbiest, I think they work pretty well.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2006, 04:06 PM
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Keep a eye on ebay for an oldie but a goodie like a Snap on 1470 or 1475 from back in the day...

http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthr...&page=12&pp=20

http://cgi.ebay.com/snapon-7-9-elect...QQcmdZViewItem
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2006, 02:05 PM
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Oh my ...heres a find
.
.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/USED-...spagenameZWDVW
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2006, 10:51 PM
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Buffing Advice

The main reason wool pads aren't used in body shops much anymore is the fuzz that flies off of them. One guy polishing with a wool pad can spread a ton of tiny wool fibers that can stay airbourne for hours, and stirred back up months later. Foam pads are slower-cutting, but don't float in the air. To speed polishing with foam pads, try using 3M Trizact 3000 grit DA paper. Sprinkle a little water on the panel after initial sanding (1200-1500) and make a few passes with the trizact-equipped DA. Buffs a lot easier. Be warned that the trizact compound that is recomended with the DA pads is for spot polishing, so just use a good medium cut for first polish.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2006, 11:11 PM
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buffing advice

Whoops! Posted after reading only the first page of posts. Anyway, I don't particularly like machine sanding of the finish. It can leave curly-Q's in the topcoat, and only seems to knock off the ridges of the orangepeel. When hand sanding, use small strokes and you can usually feel if there is any dirt under the paper, sometimes hear it, since we all probably like to have a fan on while we are sanding our elbows off.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2006, 04:00 AM
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buffing

my two cents worth, i use a lot of ppg concept,when i color sand i start with 1500 all in one direction then come back with 2000 crossing the previous pattern this will eliminate the 2000 marks from falling into the 1500 marks making for a much eaiser buff.start with hook it 3-m wool pad with 3-m compound,heat from buffer produces luster,anyway,i do this step twice,then i go to foam 3-m waffle pad with 3-m foam polishing compound.the next step is 3-m hand glaze,non-silicone or wax assuming you are using fresh paint.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2006, 06:17 PM
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buffing

I've been sanding and buffing for about 7 years or so. I've used alot of different products. It's all preference really. I'm comfortable with sanding with a D/A with a 6" soft pad, start off with 1000 or 1200 grit, depending on how bad the clear got laid on. Bring it up to 1500. I use a dewalt buffer (although I've tried the Milwaukee and it is better) with a white wool pad-3m rubbing compound followed by dark foam pad glaze with a gray waffle pad and then I finish it out with a wet body shop napkin and 3m imperial hand glaze. Hand glaze is key on dark colored cars. But again it is all preference.
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