[jezbo78]

Originally Posted by jezbo78

I've been sanding and buffing for about 7 years or so. I've used alot of different products. It's all preference really. I'm comfortable with sanding with a D/A with a 6" soft pad, start off with 1000 or 1200 grit, depending on how bad the clear got laid on. Bring it up to 1500. I use a dewalt buffer (although I've tried the Milwaukee and it is better) with a white wool pad-3m rubbing compound followed by dark foam pad glaze with a gray waffle pad and then I finish it out with a wet body shop napkin and 3m imperial hand glaze. Hand glaze is key on dark colored cars. But again it is all preference.

the circular direction of the D/A will help aid in buffing. Both machines spin in a cirlce rather than hand sanding, which is straight.

[iceburgh]

Originally Posted by jezbo78

the circular direction of the D/A will help aid in buffing. Both machines spin in a cirlce rather than hand sanding, which is straight.

Actually the D/A vibrates when pressure is put on the polisher. Thsi will help when removing the swirls that ALL rotary buffers leave

[jezbo78]

that doesnt make any sense. i'm comparing hand sanding versus d/a when sanding clearcoat. using a d/a rather than wet sanding by hand will leave circular marks rather than straight marks. im not talking about removing swirls that polishers leave. sorry for any misunderstanding.

[iceburgh]

Originally Posted by jezbo78

that doesnt make any sense. i'm comparing hand sanding versus d/a when sanding clearcoat. using a d/a rather than wet sanding by hand will leave circular marks rather than straight marks. im not talking about removing swirls that polishers leave. sorry for any misunderstanding.

I was talking about polishing after the fact. However I have used a small 6" DA to sand as well ..... 2000 grit I do it dry , then buff with a rotary heavy compound and wool then lighter compound rotary and foam then rotary again with a lighter compound and the DA with foam and a glaze.....perfect everytime.
Also do wet sand...depends on the time I have and how good the clear is.
Both ways I have never had a problem.

This is my trunk lid

[jezbo78]

ive never heard of polishing with a DA before, ill have to give it a try. i use the buffer with a waffle pad, then pending on the color ill do 3M imperial hand glaze. perfect everytime for me as well. everybody has their ways i guess. i always did wet sanding by hand until the explanation of the circular motion was explained to me about 4 years aog. now thats all i use when i work with a freshly cleared peice. im trying to get out of detailing all together. ive done it on the side for years and can't seem to get rid of it. im a marine electrician now and have some hotrod electrical jobs lined up already. but anyway.

[iceburgh]

I use the G100 from Meguiars. It is made by Porter Cable but Meguiars gives it a life time warranty. Replacement for any reason even if you drop it

[sparkysrodshop]

hi,from sparkys,just color sanded a 32 glass coupe painted with single stage concept ppg.used 3-ms newest,first wet sanded with 1500,then used adapter on da with 3000 wet,then buffed with wool yes wool pad.after that applied new glaze with foam pad,looked good,then used 3-m supplied rags wiped off excess glaze,paint looks 3 feet deep and you can see your wiskers in reflection,to beat it all this color is vette milinium yellow. thanks randy sparks sparkysrodshop.if you want 3-ms numbers and names call me 423-505-4144

[iceburgh]

Originally Posted by sparkysrodshop

hi,from sparkys,just color sanded a 32 glass coupe painted with single stage concept ppg.used 3-ms newest,first wet sanded with 1500,then used adapter on da with 3000 wet,then buffed with wool yes wool pad.after that applied new glaze with foam pad,looked good,then used 3-m supplied rags wiped off excess glaze,paint looks 3 feet deep and you can see your wiskers in reflection,to beat it all this color is vette milinium yellow. thanks randy sparks sparkysrodshop.if you want 3-ms numbers and names call me 423-505-4144

Sounds like a killer car and good tech. I prefer Meguiars over 3M....they pay my bills so that makes it nice.
Millenium yellow is a 3 step paint, base, tint, clear. You said single stage....did you not use the tint coat? Just curious and wondered if it would be brighter with out the tunt coat

[scrot]

A good variable speed unit is the Hitachi SP18VA it can be had for 99 bucks at coastal tool. http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/...12df+1146238029

Check out the link. The buffer is now $159!

[unbearable]

It's a dial speed control = crap !