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Old 06-04-2007, 08:04 PM
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buffing fresh paint, buffing old paint help!!(now with pics)

well ive been working on my car for a couple months now, its almost ready for paint and i already have people waiting for me to do some work for them. well i have a problem, as everything related bodywork i have zero experience in buffing paint, the difference is i cant find info on it as i did with bodywork. ive search numerous times here in theforums, with google, and i dont seem to find a good article that teaches how to do it. the first person that wants work done wants a panel painted and the whole car buffed, and i have my car to buff(fresh paint, not yet painted though). ihave 3m perfect it for my car but i dont have anything for the other car or the remote idea of what to use on an old finish. i need help desperately. i have a 1000-3000 variable speed 30$ harborfreight buffer/polisher.

i need info on this or even videos if there are in the internet that i can watch.

thanks for the input

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Old 06-05-2007, 11:53 AM
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please i need help!!! here are the pics of the buffer. i understand that the coarser bonnet is for applying the compound and the softer is for taking it off. i know applying has to be done wetting the surface and that i have to use a low speed. does the bonnet looks right? do i need extra bonnets(i think i need a glazing pad)? do i have to use the foam thing for other than holding the bonnets? What product is good on old finish??

please im an complete newbie on this. i need help and still i havent found a nice toturial on this. i have read 3 books on bodywork none had enough on this.

the pics:

the kit and the bonnet on the buffer.



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Old 06-05-2007, 12:20 PM
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The foam pad is all you need.
The pad that came with your buffer is probably pretty
low quality-I'd get a good pad to start.
There are different grades of foam, heavy cutting, polishing, and
fine swirl removing. Basically all of them will fit into one of these
3 groups.
You won't need a cutting pad unless you're removing sanding scratches
from leveling out new paint. Even then, depending on how fine you
sand, a polishing foam will work fine. Usually above 2000 grit.
Meguiars makes some good foam pads and compounds to go with it.
I use their yellow polishing pad with their #2 compound on existing
finishes and new paint too. It does pretty good.
You'll have to experiment to see what works for you.
Everyone has different preferences, to many to list here.
Google the Meguiars products and see what might sound right for you.
There's a bunch and it does get confusing but it's not near as hard
as you think.
I bought some "System One X3" compound off of Ebay that claims to do
it all. I am impressed, it does a good job. That may be all you need
with a couple of different pads.
Just go slow, and keep it moveing.
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Old 06-05-2007, 01:34 PM
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what about craftsman pads? are they good enough?

im still confused on pads. the round towel-like pads i have are for cutting, and the only thing i should use is the foam pad if i take the paint to 2000 grit. so the foam pad is used once and then it has to be cleaned right? or is it thrown away? im toast. i saw a kit on sears that said it was one pad for applying other to take off and a swirl remover.


to add into this dilema im buffing my future paint job: black and a friends car(to earn a couple bucks while i finish mine) that is black too.

i looked thru the Knowlegde base and i didnt find anything about it but ill look again. if its there a link would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 06-06-2007, 06:08 AM
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The towel like pads are more for waxing.
I don't think anyone here uses them, at least I never have.
Don't confuse compounding (buffing) with waxing.
We call it buffing but actually painters are talking about compounding.
When we buff paint the buffer throws off the compound as you go,
there's very little to wipe off afterwards-just the slinging overspray.
The compounds have no wax or silicones so new paint can
still dry and/or cure. If you're buffing old paint you can wax afterwards.

The foam pads last a long time, if you can keep from tearing them.
Wash them afterwards and they're fine.
You can also use a wool pad on your buffer, they're much more aggresive
and I don't recommend them for an inexperienced person.
It's real easy to burn through the paint with one.
Any foam pad will work for you, even the cheap ones, it's just the better
more expensive ones work better and quicker.
With different grit compounds you could use one pad for everything.
Once you practice on something a lot more will make sense.
Try a panel like your car door and see, just keep it moving and always
keep the pad spinning away from the edges, be very careful around
the edges. If you have two edges, like between two doors, tape one
to keep from buffing into it.
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Old 06-06-2007, 06:33 AM
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Check this site out-loads of info there.

http://autobody101.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=7
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