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Old 01-22-2014, 06:27 AM
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Buffing with Megulars 105

I've finely got to the point of buffing, I bought Megulars 105 to buff with. I sanded the clear coat with 1500 then 2000. So far I've only buffed the top portion of one of the doors. I bought a Megulars wool buffing/cutting pad an a orange foam cutting pad. I used the orange first and it seems to buff out all the 2000 scratches really fast. I watched some U-Tub videos on Megulars 105 an it seemed they buffed longer than I did, I'm guessing because they only used 1200 to sand with. Question 1. is when I buffed the top of the door it looks to me that all the 2000 scratches are gone, this is a dark metallic gold w/ 3 coats of clear, if there are scratches still their I can't see them. I was looking for the same shine on the clear coat as unsanded clear coat, it not quite there. Should I switch to Megulars 205 or should I wait a month or so an wax it. The clear has been on for 2 weeks. Question 2. is on pad prep (orange foam pad) brand new pad, I wet it because it was stiff that loosen it, then I worked in some of the 105 into the pad, I've read about using a lube on the pad I don't have any so I sprayed it with soapy water, just a little, will that work as a lube? Also the 105 says it'll remove 1200 scratches, Im sanding with 1500, do I really need to use 2000 then? I don't think I'll use the wool pad, I don't know if your familiar with a 78 Camaro but theirs a lot of inward curves an rounded corners an channels an I think the foam pad will work better than a wool pad.

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Old 01-22-2014, 07:58 AM
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I would not use the wool pad they can cut way too fast, especially for someone who is not experienced using it. I also would not wax the car for several months which will allow the paint to off gas sufficiently. After cutting and buffing move the car out into the sun for several hours you will be surprised at what appears that you cannot see indoors.

Vince
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:53 PM
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The shine or gloss you mention "not being there" will have to be brought out by using a finishing pad and a polishing compound. I have not used Meguiars in so long I don't even know there numbering system anymore, but usually a black foam pad is a light cut/polishing pad. You will have to look up or ask someone familiar with their products to figure out which product you will need. What you are dealing with is this, there are scratches left from the orange cutting pad and compound which is causing the gloss to appear cloudy. Think of the compound as a real fine liquid sandpaper, the finer you get the less scratches you have. As stated in the previous post, don't use a wax or paint sealer for at least 6 months to allow for a complete cure. Hope this makes sense.

Kelly
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:46 AM
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I use 3M products... the trizac' system which consists of compound.. swirl mark remover and a final stage glaze.. we use different foam pads for each and Wool' pads for the compounding stages ONLY....

I recommend trying 3M...

The white foam pad is for compounding... but they can generate alot of heat so be careful about getting it to HOT and watch your body lines and edges as theyll be the first to burn thru...

The trick to compounding with a foam pad is making sure you get all the sand scratches out before you jump to swirl mark removing stage so wipe down the panel you sanded.. wash it.. clean it to help you know the difference between swirl marks vs sand scratches...

The wool pad is good.. it takes sand scratches out easier but leaves more swirl marks
The foam pad takes out sand scratches almost as well and leaves less swirl marks..

I dont know how fresh your paint is... but if its still fresh you get scratches out a easier. .

Im not sure if thr compound you are using is gritty.. some compounds ate grittier than others...
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:57 AM
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Im loading some pix I did of this challenger I painted from black to red..
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:05 AM
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Meguiars 105 is the highest aggressive compound they make, 205 is 2/3 less aggressive. What is a good lube for the pad? I've been using a 30% Dawn dish soap 70% water mix in a spray bottle to sand with, its pretty slippery, anything wrong with using it as a lube? I'll get some 205 to finish with an a less aggressive pad. I'm new to buffing.
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:14 AM
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Sanding with 1200' then followed by 2000' is to make buffing much easier... scratches come out easier. .. aggressive compound is for taking out deeper sand scratches such as 600..800..

Good lube??

Your pad is brand new? If so.. the pad can take some time to get a little saturated with compound before it works better.. using some water.. not alot..but a little to help it buff better. . A foam pad that is brand new and dry... is dangerous as far as heat and burn through the finish ..

How long ago was it painted?
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:24 AM
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Meguiar's has great products. When I buff car I usually start with yellow wool pad (not as agressive as red)
Meguiar's 105 is good compound for heavy cut. You need to have several different compounds to finish the job. Personally I use Ultimate compound on a wool pad. Once I make several passes and it's where I can't get it anymore glossier I switch to another compound and foam pad (yellow) with an medium cut cleaner #2 and then follow by a #9 Swirl remover with a (gray) finishing foam pad. To keep foam pads lubed you can spray some Final Inspection right onto the pad.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:43 PM
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For some reason.. I love the way this has worked for me.

On a finish no less than 3 coats of SPI universal clear (not thinned),

I use a wool pad with LiquidIce (made by Norton),

followed by a Meguiars burgandy pad and liquid ice, on a portercable random orbital

followed by a Meguiars Yellow pad and Meguiars #82 Swirl free polish

followed by a Meguiars buff pad and Meguiars #7 show car glaze
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Old 01-25-2014, 08:25 AM
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Looks like I can get after it again today, gonna be in the mid 60's, an a even more gooder day tomorrow, in the 70's, an my water hoses won't have frozen water in them. I can sand & sand & sand & sand & sand some more. If I only knew what Zen an sanding had in common ( The Zen Of Sanding Off Any Minor Imperfections On Clear Coat With Only 1500 grt.) I'll find Zen after that 4th Bud Ice.....
Anyhow my goal for today & tomorrow is to everything sanded an buffed, I still have to buy some Meguiers 205 an a different softer pad.
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Old 01-25-2014, 04:32 PM
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not sure about the extra cut but never really liked the stuff as it was a nightmare for swirls. If I use Meguiars I like the the diamond cut 2.0/85. You can either use polish to hide stuff that will come back later x2 or you can get the shine you want with compounds and realize the polish doesn't make all that much of a difference, but you still use it. Mitmaks had some very good advice on compounding with Meguiars and I also like to go over a wool pad buff with a compound buff with a compounding pad. It really makes a difference. When you get the shine you want compounding THEN you go to polish. It's not meant to make something shiny that's not shiny, well I guess it sort of is but it never works out to your liking once all the polymers dry out. It will just look dull again.
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Old 01-26-2014, 05:35 PM
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Well I found out that I tiger striped my trunk lid & I had some small sags in my metallic that I never saw until I started buffing. But I been at this for a almost a year now, I'm going to drive it until next winter then fix my trunk lid, at least I can take it off. Everything else I'll just live with, it still looks 1000% better than it did before.A quick question on what kind for pad I should use for a milder compound, I don't have time to order one, I can find Meguiers products at a few places here. I feel sorry for anybody who works in a production shop an their job is only sanding clear coat for final buffing. It wouldn't be so bad if they could drink beer an crank the stereo up, I don't think I ever found Zen, even doing that.
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Old 01-26-2014, 05:56 PM
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a white foam compounding pad.
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