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If you have never used a buffer It would be very hard to explain every thing you would need to know. It is very easy to ruin the paint without hands on instructions, sorry.
Good Luck, Troy |
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How about some hints? I plan to practice on some other vehicles before I do the important job. I have a faded 74 Dodge PU and my wife's minivan's clear coat is hazy. I know to let the buffer do the work, not press down on it and not stay in one spot to long. I an curious about the bonnets for the buffer head. Do you use the same blue bonnet to apply buffing compound as you do to apply wax? How wet do you keep the area being buffed? Do you pour the compound on the bonnet then to the paint then buff? Is it better to use a hand sealer or can you buff that on too? Wish there was a book, you know A toZ on buffing!!
Todd Rat Rods Rule! |
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TM, I apologize for the delay, but heeeeeeere I am to save the daaaaaaaaaay!
Alright polishing is pretty simple process, but still does require practice to get the feel of the work. One of the main things is to let the buffer work not you. Don't put any pressure on the buffer, its weight is all it needs. I personally like the perfect it and finesse it lines from 3M, they are complete and ready to go, but I usually just buy separate compounds and pads do to my experience. If the surface is pretty wavy looking take some wet sanding to cut it down to a dull uniform look. Take the compound and a black waffle pad, squirt some of the compound on the sheet metal and with the buffer off just swirl it around over a big enough area you can handle at once. After you have swirled the compound take to it with the buffer, never stay in one place, move over the entire area. After you have done the entire vehicle with the black waffle pad and compound switch to a wool buff with some polishing compound, in the finesse it and perfect it kits they include all of this for each step. Do the same with the polishing compound to create a perfect glass like finish. Some buff jobs require swirl remover depending upon compound used, but its not really needed. If its fresh paint after you have let it cure hit the paint with some meguires washing liquid then a few coats of meguires pure carnuba. Your paint should be so smooth looking at it is painful! Never use the same pad for different compounds. Each pad has its own preticular place and compound. Always keep the pads in bags when not in use because dust and dirt and creepy crawlies (no not my female followers, to bad eh?) will get in there and ruin your paint next buff jobs. Sealer really isn't nessasary, if you use carnuba wax your good to go. Blue sponge pads are for older well cured paint. Black waffle is for new cutting, wool is for overall soft buffing and finishing. There are many other types, like yellow sponge white waffle, blue waffle etc, but the only ones you would need to worry about is the black waffle for new paint the wool buff and the blue sponge for everyday polishing/buffing. If you have anymore question let me know through here or e-mail, but if you go through the board just PM me to come take a look in here for your question. HK Last edited by Halloweenking; 08-19-2003 at 07:18 PM. |
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Here is a site that you can find every thing you need, with a video demonstration. This is the products I have used in my shop for 35 years, and on my ISCA world of wheels Grand champion show car.
www.mequiars.com Troy, |
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TM...did you purchase an actual buffer or did you get on of the buffers that has two handles and is used mostly to take off wax. There is a huge difference. An actual buffer is high speed, has some weight to it, and if used incorrectly can burn the paint in a second.
Kevin |
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Thanks King, I appreciate your help. And Kevin the buffer/polisher is from Sears. Not their high dollar piece but the middle of the road. The paint I'm working on is hazy but still shines(very little), the paint job has to be 20 years old and there is a lot of dirt in the paint from age. I'm hoping to bring out a little luster and shine then seal the paint with Carnuba. troy-curt, thanks for the site. stea: what do you mean by tape the edges??
Todd Rat Rods Rule! |
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Let me help here.
The best forum I have found for detailing is: http://www.autopia.org/forums/index.php?s= They have a great forum and free ebook for download but the tutorials on the site itself are best. http://properautocare.com/?source=autopia_banner is a commercial site but has good photo tutorials in each category |
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tape the edges
No edges to tape stea. The project is a 53 Chevy, very round curves, no sharp edges?? When I'm near the stainless I rub It by hand, boy is there a LOT of stainless. The Old water spots and bird poop spots are disappearing along with scratches an such.. The dirt looks like little dots or whiskers?? Tiny little spots like pencil dots, Dirt in the paint I'm sure! The shine is coming back slowly, I'm not pushing it, don't want to BURN the paint. What does burned paint look like anyway?? Does it turn black or brown?? Never saw it before.
Todd Rat Rods Rule! |
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The edges being refered to when buffing is the edges of the hood ,fenders, doors,deck,etc.
When you burn through you will know it, youll see a smeared brownish place. Good Luck Troy |
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