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Old 10-10-2004, 01:24 PM
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Buffing Problems

Hi everyone

I recently wetsanded my whole suv with 1000 then 1200 then 2000 till no shiney spots.

Then I used a wool buffing pad and am using 3m perfect it 2 rubbing compound to buff. I buff the area about 3 times. I buff until the polishing compound is dry and then wet the part im buffing with water. THen I buff it again to kinda clean it up. Then I use an old hanes t-shirt to try and clean the panel and I get all these small scratches. The scratches look like there left from the buffer not sanding or me trying to clean the panel with a shirt.

Does anyone know why im getting all these scratches? I cant see to get them out.

Should I try using a finishing polish or a glaze to get them out? Please help

thanks, Chris

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Old 10-10-2004, 01:32 PM
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Could be dirt in the wool? I'd glaze with a foam pad and see where that gets you depending how bad the scratches are, though I'm no expert...
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Old 10-10-2004, 02:12 PM
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You might be right with the dirt... Ill go ahead and clean my foam pad and use it.

I cant seem to get rid of the damn swirl marks I clean the foam pad and the hood. Then I buff it and use a fresh shirt and I have buffing swirl marks. I know their from the buffer cause there round.... Im gonna see if finishing compound will take care of it. If it does I will compound the whole car... THen finishing compound.. THen glaze.. Alot of work

Last edited by ChrisMiddleron; 10-10-2004 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 10-10-2004, 06:38 PM
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You didn't say, is this a new paint job, or the original? What color is it? Some colors show minor scratches worse than others.

If the scratches are circular, they are likely coming from the buffer/pad. I would use the foam pads instead of the wool. You might also look at the compound that you are using. There are different cutting compounds, some courser than others.
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Old 10-10-2004, 08:44 PM
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I believe if the clear is fresh you are supposed to wait 30 days before wet sanding and buffing, if the paint is new that may be your problem...
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:23 AM
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Yeah its a new paint job. About 2 weeks old... The color is blue-green color changing paint. I think im ok now I washed/ dried that panel about 3 times and it started to come out. I think once I finishing polish and glaze it will come out. If it doent ill repost

Thanks, Chris
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:32 AM
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Check the manufacturer's tech sheet for the clear. It should tell you what the proper time window is for sanding and buffing.
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Old 10-13-2004, 12:24 PM
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I just painted a guy's Harley with the Mike Lavalle 'real fire' style flames. I buffed it 8 hours later as the tech sheet said. It shines like a mirror- (posted in my journal)- Make sure you use a different pad for every different compound. Old pads will NOT clean up well and will scratch. Try a microfiber cloth for cleaning. 3M swirl mark remover helps, but if you have a clean pad it should NOT scratch. Good Luck Chris!!

Last edited by Dragon J; 10-14-2004 at 06:57 AM.
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Old 10-13-2004, 02:56 PM
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Hey Thanks

I didn't know your were supposed to switch pads. Iv been using the same ones Its all good though cause iv been using only 3m rubbing compounds.

I will go ahead and pick up one more pad for the Finesse it 2 finishing material. I already have a small foam pad for the glaze.

I have a question though. Is the 3m Finesse it 2 finishing material more like a glaze or a rubbing compound?

Thanks, CHris
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Old 10-14-2004, 07:01 AM
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Hey Chris- looks good in the photo post! I know that in person the small imperfections drive us crazy!! I use the 3M rubbing and finish with Griot's polishing products. I assume the Finesse It to be a glazing compound. The Griot's just seem very smooth and easy to remove so I've stuck with them for years. Good Luck- and again- looks good to me!!
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Old 10-15-2004, 09:43 PM
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buffing problem

Did you put enough hardner in the paint and or clear ? Did you give it time to cure . Sounds soft to me but maybe just dirt on the pad.
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Old 10-15-2004, 10:25 PM
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You will get swirl marks with the first buff using a course compound. Then go to a swirl mark remover and a foam pad. Then the final buff is the glaze with a foam finishing pad.

Use a clean pad with each different cut, not just a cleaned one as there might be some residue left from the last material used. For glazing I use four new pads to the job. The water and the accumulated compound on a pad will leave scratches, also the water makes the compound more aggressive.

A glazing product will say glaze on it.

Troy
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Old 10-16-2004, 10:06 PM
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Hey thanks everyone

Your posts answered my question in my recent post about buffing problems. Didnt read the newer posts.

THanks, CHris
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Old 10-17-2004, 07:05 AM
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A couple of additional points to the above points.

The pads today are not like they use to be, white was your cutting period. Today the pad companies are making a lot of different pads with different cutting rates. Pads on how aggressive they cut is decided by the twisting of the wool and steaming process. So if you like to clean your pad with a screwdriver your unwinding the the twist and making the pad weaker. Throw it in the washing machine and same result.

First thing to do is go to jobber and see if he knows the difference in pads he sells buy the most aggressive one for first cutting and a medium cut one for 1500 or 2000 grit type compounds and than your foam for show if needed.

Swirl marks if buffed right are eliminated with the first aggressive buffing step. This is where most people make the mistake on black and dark color cars.
Assuming you wet sanded with 1500-2000, now use your course pad and your aggressive compound and buff a 1-3 foot section until the scratches are (TOTALLY) gone Than do the next 1-3 foot area until that whole panel is done and than the next most important thing is keep buffing over the whole panel until all that compound or glaze look left on the panel is gone, when done the panel should look like it was washed and dried. If this step is skipped you will be chasing the swirl marks for many more steps. By buffing the lite coating left you are breaking down the compound and it gives the same effect as going from say an 800 grit compound to a 1200-1500. - Note; As you doing this step let the buffer do the work, do not use force in this step (pushing down).
If done right 90 % of your swirl marks will be gone at this time.
Next step go to your medium cutting pad with your 1500-2000 grit type compound buff until no residue is left on panel as above.
Most shops at this point are done for everyday production work
of course the difference between everyday work and show work may be 6-7 more rounds of polishing and the use of many different grades of foam pads again going from rougher cut foams to finer in each step.
All the shops, I'm in, in a years time this is the one step (buffing)
people just try to make harder than it really is. Most of the problem lies with the compound manufacturers making way to many products, just to sell more and confusing everyone.

Also remember this, most true with high solid clears.
Next day after you paint do your wet-sanding ,than pull the car out in the sun for 1-2 hours. Pull back inside and let car cool to room temp and buff. It will cut your buff time in half.
This makes no difference if done on lacquer, or crap clears but on the high solids it s the best thing you can do.

Last edited by BarryK; 10-17-2004 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 10-27-2004, 10:48 AM
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buffing problems

i can tell you one of the most effective compounds out there is the 3m perfect it 3 compound it is a very good all around compound , for many it will be their favorite which allows you to go from this rubbing compound directly to glazing in two simple steps without the normal mess of traditional compounds it is similar to the finess it 2 compound with a bit more agressive cut. used with the 3m white cutting pad you will acheive exellent results quickly and beautifully
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