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Old 05-22-2005, 08:08 PM
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Buffing small parts

I'm painting small parts for my engine compartment. I'm painting with black acrylic enamel and using gloss hardner. The paint comes out great but I want to take it to the next level by removing any hint of orange peel or dirt flaws in the paint. I know how to wet sand it. The question is after I wet sand, these parts are too small and have too many ridges I believe to use a rotary buffer. They are parts like engine braces and a FE radiator overflow tank. I do have a DA polisher. Can I after the wet sanding, polish the gloss back by hand. What would I use? Below is the picture of the engine compartment. The parts now are painted a satin black and I wanted to add some gloss to them.

http://www.nwtbirds.com/Graphics/car...s/P0000748.htm

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Old 05-22-2005, 08:38 PM
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Thats a tough thing to accomplish.

You would be better off to sand and re coat because a small part like that will be a killer to bring all the gloss back in enamel.
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Old 05-22-2005, 09:24 PM
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It can be done but it will take a LOT of TIME and TOUCH.
Actually a SLOW running buffing WHEEL would do this.
The same as used for polishing metal. I have done this myself and with the proper set-up and buff's and a BIG MESS (spinning compound everywhere) they will look great. I have a homemade finish buffer with a furnace blower shaft & bearings run by a 1725 RPM motor with a pulley reduction set-up using a soft buff wheel. Works great but like I said,It's messy.
Your touch is critical as well to prevent burning/cutting thru.

I just prefer to paint them right or repaint till right.

I understand your wanting them perfect,
Shame to put subpar parts in that bay. NICE.
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Old 05-22-2005, 09:24 PM
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Yes a good flow coat would be easest, but there has to be a tool out there like a "spot buffer" or some kind of mini buffer to get in hard to reach areas or just for small parts.
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Old 05-22-2005, 09:45 PM
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I've used a pistol drill set up with a flex shaft to do some metal polishing.The trick is to put a hose clamp around the trigger so that speed can be controlled.If parts are small, anchor them down to your bench, put an appropriate buffing wheel on the flex shaft, set ithe drill to a medium rpm and buff out your parts.Start with a course rubbing compound,and work your way to afiner compound,changing buffing wheels with each compound change.This has worked for me on various aluminum and stainless parts,and Ibelieve it should work well on painted parts.
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Old 05-22-2005, 10:22 PM
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3M has some 3" wool & waffel pads which are a real help for this type stuff as well. I have both and they have saved my day MANY times.
Scroll down the page and they are listed in the sections with the regular 8"-9" pads.
3M
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Old 05-22-2005, 10:27 PM
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The source

Click here thes guys have about all of it for buffing and polishing about anything..they will have something..buffing small parts use a fluffy wheel and your regular buffing compounds..Be careful of "snatch" as if it gets away that wheel will throw your part across the shop and maybe into your body parts.. OUCH!!!!

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Old 05-22-2005, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee4Me
3M has some 3" wool & waffel pads which are a real help for this type stuff as well. I have both and they have saved my day MANY times.
Scroll down the page and they are listed in the sections with the regular 8"-9" pads.
3M
I found those. I have a 3" DA. Would that work or do I need to get a rotary polisher?
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Old 05-22-2005, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirdman
I found those. I have a 3" DA. Would that work or do I need to get a rotary polisher?
You use it on your DA. I used mine today for about 4 hours straight. These are lifesavers.
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Old 05-22-2005, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick WI
You use it on your DA. I used mine today for about 4 hours straight. These are lifesavers.
So what compounds would I use if I stopped at 3000 grit for my wet sanding. I see number 80 and 83 mntion a bit here.

Ken
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