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Old 11-06-2002, 10:26 PM
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Post Buiding a 355 need help

I Have bought a 350 that has been punched out 20 over. It is fresh out of the shop. Would I gain anything by punching it out another 10 to get my 355c.i.? It also came with a crank, Which is fresh out of the shop.They said that it had been balenced. Will it need to be reblenced with my pistion's and rod's?

Another thing that is been troubling me is that I have no Idea what blueprinting a engine means?

[ November 06, 2002: Message edited by: KentuckyCamaro ]

[ November 06, 2002: Message edited by: KentuckyCamaro ]</p>

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Old 11-06-2002, 10:37 PM
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From what I have come up with on this site boring doesn't give you anything worth boring more than you need to.

HK
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Old 11-07-2002, 07:21 AM
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You will never notice the difference. The commonly accepted .030 overbore is to clean up the cylinders, make them round, and give the rings new metal and a proper finish to break into. If your block cleaned up well with just .020 then that must be all it needed. Back in the old days of thick cylinder wall castings a full 1/8 or 1/4 inch overbore to gain cubes made sense. Modern thin wall castings won't take that kind of a punch.

Spend that money on good heads.

Tom
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Old 11-07-2002, 12:52 PM
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Blueprinting an engine simply means that you bring the engine back to the original specs from the factory.

~Michael
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Old 11-07-2002, 06:07 PM
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Its also a term used that simply means planning your rebuild by designing everything to work together. Like seting up blueprints to a house, but in this case your carefully planning out your engines rebuild. HG
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Old 11-07-2002, 06:56 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by lozinit:
<strong>Blueprinting an engine simply means that you bring the engine back to the original specs from the factory.

~Michael</strong><hr></blockquote>

This info could not be further from the truth. A balanced engine also called blueprinting is when you tear an engine down to the last nut and bolt. Every part is weighed and tagged then the drilling of each part to make sure that every part in each catagory weighs exactly the same. The weights of each throw on the crankshaft must be exact. There is MUCH more to balancing an engine than just putting in new parts. We have some machinest on this site who can give you a more detailed explanation, I am not one of them.

[ November 07, 2002: Message edited by: Gr8 '48 bow tie ]</p>
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Old 11-08-2002, 08:39 AM
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Gr8,
I am not trying to come off as some kind of know it all, or **********, but, I disagree to a point that my original post was the farthest thing from the truth.
I forgot to mention that the term blueprinting has been twisted throughout the years to mean different things.
After talking to people such as J. Lingenfelter, Big Daddy, and Don Hampton, I was very suprised to learn that the term blueprinting means simply bringing the engine back to spec.
This INCLUDES weighing, grinding and balancing the rods, pistons, block, etc.. to bring them all into spec. (What you described)
I simply assumed that this was a given though and did not mention it. Mistake on my part.
Tearing down an engine to every last nut and bolt has nothing to do with bluprinting or balancing, thats called a complete rebuild.
Maybe I'm not following your train of thought?? (Not uncommon for me)

Again, whenever you blueprint an engine, you would normally balance it as well. The factory engine specs are quite close and exact in tolerance, and during production, things change and are no longer at the "factory" clearance. If they were, there would be no such thing as core shift. If you didn't balance the parts, it wouldn't be in spec, would it? Aftermarket parts are close, but they are just that - close. Would you put a set of rings in without checking the gap first? No. Do you install sparkplugs without checking the gap first? No.
Why?
Because the parts may be "close" to factory specs, but, they are almost always not AT the factory specs. (The spark plug example was a bad one, but you know where I was going with this.)

Any two bit hack can re-ring an engine, but you need a little more knowledge (and the proper tools) to properly build up an engine. (And yes, I am still learning the more esoteric points of getting every last bit of torque out of the motor.)
I fail to see how my original post could be further from the truth though. I'm not saying you were wrong, in fact, you are quite right about the balancing act, I had just forgot to mention that.
~Michael
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Old 11-08-2002, 10:52 AM
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Has anyone here ever worked in an auto factory? I mean actually building NEW cars?
I do and don't get me wrong here because the cars that I do build are one of the best selling cars in the world! I take my job VERY seriously and I do what I am paid to do better than alot of people that I work with but...Factory Specs is a very loose term.
Everyone seems to think that it takes a rocket scientist and a mathmatics wizard to build a Factory-Built car...wrong! People that REbuild motors,transmissions,suspensions,etc are the ones who actually follow a closer tolerence than the people who are actually building the cars new.
There are people that I work with that I am amazed that they can make it through day-to-day activities.Like I said though...the cars that I build are top quality cars and I wouldn't hesitate one second to drive my family across country in one.
But like I said..."back to factory specs" is a very loose term. Because factory specs are more like a suggestion than a golden rule. And yes you know it is the same no matter where the product is built or what the product is, for the simple fact that anything and everything that came from a factory is built by everyday people like you and I.
Later,
WEIMER
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Old 11-08-2002, 11:45 AM
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See, learned something new here.
I had always assumed that the "factory spec" thing was some kinda "golden rule, set in stone, kept locked up in a safe" type thing. hehehehe..

Seriously, after talking to the experts and those who "have been around the block", I assumed that there was some kinda published paper or something that stated that the tolerance for this part has to be .003, and that part has to be .102, etc..
I'm not saying that you don't know how to do your job by any means Weimer... that wasn't my original intention, (if thats how it sounded) and if I made any kind of insinuation, don't take it that way. I was talking more about the older blocks we find in a junkyard that has so much core shift because the casting was flawed.

GR8,
let me apoligize ahead of time about that previous post.. after re-reading it, I think it may have came off rather snotty, and that was not my intention either. I was simply repeating and "reforming" what I had stated earlier. I was not trying to start an arguement or anything, just repeating what I had learned.
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