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Old 03-12-2006, 02:55 PM
crusherdbuzz's Avatar
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Which to build.

I'm taking a lower end class at my college and I currently own a 350 block with 4bolt main. The engine will go into my 71 nova that has a 4spd and higher gears, around low 3's gears (im guessing not sure the exact but it flies on the freeway). The car will be 80 or 90% of the time a daily driver/cruiser with occasional trips to the track for fun. My dilema is either building a really strong 350 with a forged crank/rods/pistons with modiefied vortec heads that I can add a good shot of nos to when I take it a quarter mile, or going another route that will cost less money and building a 383 stroker with a cast crank / reconditioned rods / hyper. pistons. and modified vortec heads and not adding nos.

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Se...umber=12-404-4

That is the cam I plan on putting into the engine reguardless of a 350 or 383 even tho I could get away with a little more duration @ .50 with the 383.

Any suggestions on what I should do? This is my first build and I know it will go together right, I just want something to be proud of in the end. Thanks

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Old 03-12-2006, 09:03 PM
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Heres what I would do. Once you go through the work to get the rods resized, the crank turned, and a new set of pistons bought, you almost have as much in it as you would in a cast steel setup from Eagle (below).

Eagle rotating assembly. PN 356-B13004L
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0759&langId=-1

The price difference between a 350 and a 383 is negligible. Just a couple of bucks for clearance. If you are doing it yourself, there is virtually no extra cost. I would also recommend a set of the L19 rod bolts. They are expensive but add alot of strength. As far as that goes, if you have the money to swing the forged assembly, with the similarity in cost between the 355 and the 383, I would do that if you can. As far as the juice goes, if you get into anything over around a 150 shot, things get a little more tricky. Usually stock fuel systems are not adequate, and the nitrous companies usually start recommending race fuel only. That being the case, I would stick with a 100-125 shot max. This is easy on parts, and it is easy to run. This assembly will handle a 100 shot all day long. As far as the cam goes, you can easily go bigger especially on the lift. I would try to get something around .500 lift. The ex274h (230 236 @.050 .490 .490 lift 110 lsa) cam is great with the vortec heads and will be great on the street in a 383. If you want, you could get a custom ground 274 with a higher lsa for the nitrous, but I would talk to the cam experts about that. This would be a great setup on the street and at the track. I had a 355 with the vortec heads and the XE268H (224 230 @.050 duration .477 .480 lift 110 lsa) on a 355 in a daily driven 1972 nova and It ran great. I do feel that it could have used a little more cam though.

This is a good article about a vortec headed 383. It has a roller cam, so yours will be a little under this but I think you would still see a solid 400+ hp and 450+ ft lbs. This in a 3400 lb nova (with driver) should run in the mid to high 12's on motor and in the mid to high 11's on a 100 shot.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/76178/

Adam
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Old 03-12-2006, 09:43 PM
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Thanks for the reply. The cam I was lookin at had .464 lift and I want to do 1.6 rockers which will bring it up to around .496. Would I be able to get away with using a cast crank, good rods, and a set of hyper. pistons while using a 100-125shot of nitrous and not have to worry about it wearing the engine/blowing up. If I can then I'll go that route and spend the money I save somewhere else or save it. With the cost being so close and if I can use the cast crank/good rods/ hyper pistons with a nitrous shot I'll probably go for the 383.
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Old 03-12-2006, 10:41 PM
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The 125 horse shot of nitrous was designed for cast pistons n such.
Hypers should work great on it. Hg
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Old 03-13-2006, 08:51 AM
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I agree that a 125 shot would be fine with a set of hyper pistons. I had one more idea. If you have the money to consider an all forged assembly, but are going with the cast one, that should free up around $800-$1000. The Vortec heads are around $650 for the upgraded set. If you use the cast bottom end, and dont use the vortecs, that seems like you would now have ~$1500 to spend on heads. If this is the case, I would highly recommend looking into a set of the AFR 195's or 180's depending on the RPM range you want. These are a great head and can add alot of hp over the Vortecs, they are also alot better quality. The vortecs are great for the price, but if you have the extra money, for the AFRs are equally as great for the price.

Here are some motors to look at. Some are a little radical, but they are all pump gas and this will give you an idea of what they are capeable of.
http://www.airflowresearch.com/dyno/chevy_dyno.htm
http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article85/A-P1.htm
http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article91/A-P1.htm

Here are the heads
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=26569

I dont want to go too far out on a limb here, but a pump gas 383 with the 195 AFRs a decient street cam along with a 125 shot (assuming your car hooks) could get a high 10 in the 1/4.
Adam

Adam
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Old 03-16-2006, 06:39 PM
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What's the low-gear ratio of your transmission?
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Old 03-16-2006, 08:22 PM
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I'm not entirely sure. I was told it was a muncie when I bought it but I havn't verified it myself. There is no spider ridges etc so its not a sagimaw (atleast that is what someone told me) so I'm guessing a muncie or a t-10. I'll try to figure that out for ya
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