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Definitions of "chopping," "channeling," and "sectioning":
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chopped_and_channeled |
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Gunnulf,
Nice to see you again! Your '35 sits kind of on top of the Frame and kind of outside of it (it has four Body Supports that hold the Body on the outside of the Frame)-I could be wrong, but I believe Ford did this so they could use one Frame on both the cars and pickups. As far as channeling goes, it would be somewhat of a chore, as the front of your Body (cowl) sits on the Frame, as well as the rear part (about 18" behind the Doors back). I know it's been done, but you are cutting out a major portion of the body rails (it's not like a '29 on '32 rails where the Body sits on the Frame). You could pinch the Frame, but it would be a chore (IMHO). On my build, I have used a Heidt's Superide II and rear four link to get the car on the ground, and it looks like I will have to shorten the Grille (I want it LOW)-maybe you could consider using the suspension to lower the car and chop the Top? Of course I believe the ride will be a more harsh this way- With regard to the used parts, I am constantly amazed at the pieces and parts that sell on Ebay-I saw a pair of cut out rear inner Fenders go for over $150.00 in the past few weeks, so most serviceable parts should be worth something- |
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The body sits on top of the frame. You'll want to weld the nuts for the body mounts to the frame if you box it. I used Street Rod Engineering suspension parts, cross member, etc for mine, good heavy duty parts at a good price. (check out my journal and album)
As far as extra parts go, you'll end up with mostly suspension parts, someone may want them, a lot of hassle to ship though. |
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my 35 ford
Hello again,
Thank you for the information. Although i did not ask my question correctly and should of ask.. if originally did the body fit on top our around?.. i got the answer and i thank you . I will choose to lower my car like 35WINDOW mentioned since that is the way seems the best for me. Thanks for the info(about welding the nut in the frame when boxing) that will same me a doozer loool. I will look soon in boxing the frame and now looking on the ''K'' and ''X'' cross-members. I love working the metal and i will check in the thickness for the boxing.. i'm guessing thats around 12 or 10 gage mild steel? i'm used to work with 14-16-18 gage so won't be too much trouble. BTW: Quick question. The V8 Emblem in the center dash, when you flip it.. is that an ashtray or something else??? thanks. I'll try and locate some rear fenders so i can copy em and make myself a new set out of 18gage steel. |
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With regards to the center of your Dash, I believe there was a Radio option, a Clock, an Ashtray or nothing at all (maybe more-anybody?)-on the rear Fenders, I have been doing some fact finding there, and as far as I can tell, Wescott's makes some good ones(and maybe the only ones that are direct fit)-I contacted Fairlane Comapny this week inquiring about their Products and their prices are quite reasonable (almost half of Wescott's), however they don't make rear Fenders for '35-'36 coupes ('35's and '36's are not the same-Fairlane makes them to only fit Sedans and Phaetons). Making a set of steel rear Fenders would be a challenge (but can be done with a lot of practice and patience).
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JB Donaldson make 35-36 Ford fiberglass bodies and parts. I don't know if they fit stockers though. Worth an email.
http://jbdonaldsonusa.com/ |
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I really wanted to get the J.B. donaldson's, but they only make the '35's with '37 lights in them-sounds like great quality though-when I contacted them to see if they would make standard '35's, they were kind of rude-
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Thanks for such a fast reply,
I've found this website by accident last night http://www.dickspadaro.com, they have some rear 35 coupe fenders, they might be worth the buying but I'd like it very much in making my own too hehe. For what is the V8.. mine looks like it's an ashtray heheh. this board is VERY GOOD i think building my car will be much easier than i first though, thanks to you all ![]() David. |
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