i'm building a 2 bolt main 327 sbc, large journal, that i'm reassembling the bottom end with eagle sir rods with arp bolts and arp main BOLTS not studs. the block has been bored 60 over, honed, decked 10 thou, new cam bearings freeze plugs. rotating assembly has been balanced. this is my 3rd small block reassembly but my first "fancy build" and i've never used arp hardware or lube or anything of that matter. I've already plastigauged everything with the factory main bolts, and the arp rod bolts with no lube, and the specs are great, and i'm wanting that peace of mind with the arp main bolts as well but i don't know what im doing there to be honest and i'm worried that something will change once torqued with the lube. what should i do? also any other random advice about 327s would be appreciated lol
10-21-2012 08:20 PM
Usally they say with the correct type of lube you can use a little less or same torque spec. I would not go less unless directed by the manufacture.
10-21-2012 08:53 PM
What are you worried about? use all the correct lock tite and lubes,make sure clearances are all correct.Put a decent solid cam in that puppy and bounce the tach off 7k.If its mild then even less worries....
10-21-2012 11:25 PM
building a 327, need advice
If all the clearances have checked out, follow ARP torque specs and directions with lube and sealer. Apply lube on all washers and bolt thread that do not go into water jacket. Apply Permatex teflon sealer to any bolt thread that go into a water jacket. The torque for the main bolts and head bolts is 70 ft. lbs. and rod bolt torque is 55 ft. lbs. unless stated other wise in your kit.
10-21-2012 11:39 PM
v8 rx7.if thats where the engine is going,P.M. me.Im an RX-7 fan and would like to hear what you used and results