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building a 355
this is my first build and i have done my research thoroughly but i would like to get some feedback on the parts that i will be using for my build...
so to start off im looking at around 350hp - 400tq and a compression no more than 10.5:1 the block is 3970010 (010 front of block) bored 30 over vortec heads 062 - 64cc 1.94/1.5 comp cams 26915 springs beehive comp cams 787 retainers comp 648 locks comp 7812 rods comp 1417 1.52 roller tip arms self-aligning comp cl12-211-2 cam/hydro lifter kit - .050 lift 224/224 maybe speed pro zh345ncp30 aluminum pistons 4.03in 5cc clevite sh13495 cam bearing clevite ms909p10 main bearing clevite cb-663p10 rod bearing intake performer rpm w/ 750cfm edelbrock as for the crank and rods ill be using my stock ones... and for the pistons im still not sure... considering 2 of them have broken skirts... im thinking of changing all of them or maybe just those 2 IMO this seems like a good street build but considering its my first i would want to get some feedbacks from builders... thx for any help |
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i also wanted to add that i dont want a rough idle... it will be a daily driver... i also want a good vacuum reading
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That's somewhat similar to my build, although I'm not incredibly familiar with all the details of the parts you selected...
I'm using an Edelbrock 7102 cam (.050 lift 234 int./244 exh.), KB 9902HC 5cc flat top pistons, vortec 062 heads, and a Holley 670 Street Avenger carb... I used the stock rods and crank, too... My idle is moderately rough, but I like it. My vacuum reading is kinda low, but I've already tagged it to be addressed in the future. My carb is performing, so I can put it on the back burner... |
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Two recomendations.
The cam is more cam than you need to achieve 350hp. it does not have a smooth idle. Better cam is Summit #1103(K) or comp cams (CL)12-238-2 Xe262. Both these will exceed 350hp in your motor and have better low end and overall torque and idle quality. Use a 1.6 ratio self aligning type rocker arm comp #1418-16 This cam/1.6 rocker combo will give you more valve lift that the 270H cam/1.5 rockers with torkier duration specs. very near or matching hyd roller cam performance at low cost. The summit cam makes 374hp in a 10:1 350 with vortecs and a RPM manifold/750carb. I ran this exact combo for many years. It's a good one. The comp XE262H-10 is a good one too. It will equal or exceed the summit cam. Both, have better drivability and are much better with a stock torque converter. If you don't want a Summit brand cam (they are made by Crane) use a Crane Blue Racer #WG1159. or comp 12-208-2 (its the same thing) Use a KB flat top piston (the budget friendly claimer series are just fine) The FM h345NP piston has a reduced pin height. If you cracked two, the rest are stressed now. One more. Instead of buying the GM 062 vortecs and then the comp valvetrain to upgrade it why not just buy the New GM small port Bowtie vortec head. GM/summit #25534421 http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku Its ready to rock for .530" lift and is a better quality head with improved hi velocity ports and thicker cast decks and light weight quality LT-4 2.00" x1.55" valves. If you have your machinst "Odeck" the block for the new pistons and build to spec, the cr will be 10:1 right on the nose. 10.5 is more than you need. If you build to these specs I know it will exceed your expectations and drive nicer too. Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-24-2009 at 10:20 AM. |
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Here is a complete summit rebuild kit with +.030 pistons and 10-10 bearings http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku Spend the money I saved you on new bowtie vortecs and the cam/ rocker combo. You won't regret. Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-24-2009 at 10:33 AM. |
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Yeah, I used stock springs... |
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beehive springs from my point of view are simply a waste of money in your case. I would look into having the spring seats cut for a bigger diameter and then installing a $40 set of springs for your 'mild' build. just my opinion though.
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right, right... I know, I went with the 26918 spring on my set of vortecs but only because I'm running a solid and my 327 sees 7K pretty regularly so the springs were worth it in my case- or now that I think about it maybe not?
Ultimatley, do what's cost effective, which I'm sure you are.
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the 918's cleared fine... no machining at all.
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