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building a 355

6K views 14 replies 3 participants last post by  abas_abas 
#1 ·
this is my first build and i have done my research thoroughly but i would like to get some feedback on the parts that i will be using for my build...

so to start off im looking at around 350hp - 400tq and a compression no more than 10.5:1

the block is 3970010 (010 front of block) bored 30 over
vortec heads 062 - 64cc 1.94/1.5
comp cams 26915 springs beehive
comp cams 787 retainers
comp 648 locks
comp 7812 rods
comp 1417 1.52 roller tip arms self-aligning
comp cl12-211-2 cam/hydro lifter kit - .050 lift 224/224
maybe speed pro zh345ncp30 aluminum pistons 4.03in 5cc
clevite sh13495 cam bearing
clevite ms909p10 main bearing
clevite cb-663p10 rod bearing

intake performer rpm w/ 750cfm edelbrock

as for the crank and rods ill be using my stock ones... and for the pistons im still not sure... considering 2 of them have broken skirts... im thinking of changing all of them or maybe just those 2

IMO this seems like a good street build but considering its my first i would want to get some feedbacks from builders...

thx for any help
 
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#3 ·
That's somewhat similar to my build, although I'm not incredibly familiar with all the details of the parts you selected...

I'm using an Edelbrock 7102 cam (.050 lift 234 int./244 exh.), KB 9902HC 5cc flat top pistons, vortec 062 heads, and a Holley 670 Street Avenger carb...

I used the stock rods and crank, too...

My idle is moderately rough, but I like it. My vacuum reading is kinda low, but I've already tagged it to be addressed in the future. My carb is performing, so I can put it on the back burner...
 
#4 ·
SeeMy355 said:
That's somewhat similar to my build, although I'm not incredibly familiar with all the details of the parts you selected...

I'm using an Edelbrock 7102 cam (.050 lift 234 int./244 exh.), KB 9902HC 5cc flat top pistons, vortec 062 heads, and a Holley 670 Street Avenger carb...

I used the stock rods and crank, too...

My idle is moderately rough, but I like it. My vacuum reading is kinda low, but I've already tagged it to be addressed in the future. My carb is performing, so I can put it on the back burner...
im guessing your using stock spring on the vortec heads cuz you dont get much lift with that cam... but how about power... do you know your numbers my main concern is rough idle... cuz when i check my cam seems like big numbers for a daily driver
 
#5 ·
F-BIRD'88 said:
Two recomendations.
The cam is more cam than you need to achieve 350hp. it does not have a smooth idle.
Better cam is Summit #1103(K) or comp cams (CL)12-238-2 Xe262.
Both these will exceed 350hp in your motor and have better low end and overall torque and idle quality. Use a 1.6 ratio self aligning type rocker arm comp #1418-16
This cam/1.6 rocker combo will give you more valve lift that the 270H cam/1.5 rockers with torkier duration specs.

The summit cam makes 374hp in a 10:1 350 with vortecs and a rpm manifold.
I ran this exact combo for many years. Its a good one. the comp XE262H-10 is a good one too. It will equal or exceed the summit cam.
Both, are much better with a stock torque converter.
If you don't want a Summit brand cam (they are made by Crane)
use a Crane Blue Racer #WG1159. or comp 12-208-2 (its the same thing)

Use a KB flat top piston (the budget friendly claimer series are just fine)
The FM h345NP piston has a reduced pin height. If you cracked two, the rest are stressed now.

One more. Instead of buying the GM 062 vortecs and then the comp valvetrain to upgrade it why not just buy the New GM small port Bowtie vortec head. GM/summit #25534421
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...867081+4294867028+4294784398+115&autoview=sku
Its ready to rock for .530" lift and is a better head.

If you build to these specs I think it will exceed your expectations and drive nicer too.
well im getting the vortec heads pretty cheap 200$/ea with springs and valves
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
abas_abas said:
im guessing your using stock spring on the vortec heads cuz you dont get much lift with that cam... but how about power... do you know your numbers my main concern is rough idle... cuz when i check my cam seems like big numbers for a daily driver
I don't know my numbers other than my compression ratio (10:9:1). I'm suffering transmission issues, so I'm waiting to get those resolved before I have placed on the dyno...

Yeah, I used stock springs...
 
#9 ·
GenYnNC said:
beehive springs from my point of view are simply a waste of money in your case. I would look into having the spring seats cut for a bigger diameter and then installing a $40 set of springs for your 'mild' build. just my opinion though.
ill see how much it will cost me at the sop because getting beehives will get me around $200
 
#10 ·
right, right... I know, I went with the 26918 spring on my set of vortecs but only because I'm running a solid and my 327 sees 7K pretty regularly so the springs were worth it in my case- or now that I think about it maybe not? :drunk: Ultimatley, do what's cost effective, which I'm sure you are.
 
#11 ·
GenYnNC said:
right, right... I know, I went with the 26918 spring on my set of vortecs but only because I'm running a solid and my 327 sees 7K pretty regularly so the springs were worth it in my case- or now that I think about it maybe not? :drunk: Ultimatley, do what's cost effective, which I'm sure you are.
i will be using it as a daily but i also want it to be strong... what im most afraid of is the performance from normal springs... will they be as good as beehive?? and what not.. i think down the road the only difference will be maybe 30-50$ from machined head to beehive springs... but i got time so i will think it thoroughly...
 
#12 ·
GenYnNC said:
right, right... I know, I went with the 26918 spring on my set of vortecs but only because I'm running a solid and my 327 sees 7K pretty regularly so the springs were worth it in my case- or now that I think about it maybe not? :drunk: Ultimatley, do what's cost effective, which I'm sure you are.
did u have to do any machining... i was reading that vortecs guides are .900 diameter so i would need a spring that has a larger inside diameter of .900 and the 26918 or 26915 have .885... wondering if that will cause any probs???
 
#14 ·
did some research and found this

so beehive springs (26918) have a inside diameter of 0.885 and will need no machining on the vortec heads

now regular springs (981) have a inside diameter of 0.880

so according to these measurements wouldnt that mean that regular springs will fit as well without any machining done????
 
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