[Opti]

Hey guys Im gonna try and build a budget drag car out of a 3rd gen.

I want to build a 383 (well thats a 30 over motor, whatever it is with a 60 overbore) with some spray cause i have a .60 over freshly machined 4 botl main block that I got for free a while back.

But I fear with the extra cubes and my budget it may be better to go with a 60 over and keep the 3.48 stroke as the extra cubes from the stroker may require better heads that I cant afford and it may pull my rpms down considerably. Sure it will make tons of torque but this will be a pretty much drag only car and a lot of torque really wont be neccesary. HPs what I need.

I was thinking maybe some touched up vortecs, and a pretty healthy cam.

Here is my next dilema, It not a hyd roller block, and Im a late model guy and the only thinkg I know is HR and SR stuff, how hard is it to convert a non roller block to work with HR lifters? Is it worth it for a build like this.

Is SR stuff real expensive for the Gen 1 stuff like it is for the Gen 2 and up motors?

What would you guys do. keep in mind this is a budget build and I will not be dropping 1K on heads.

Any Suggestions?

[68NovaSS]

Sure it will make tons of torque but this will be a pretty much drag only car and a lot of torque really wont be neccesary. HPs what I need.

Don't need any torque? Not if you have a mile run at the starting line. You can buy retro roller lifters and associated parts, you're on a budget, nothing's cheap, especially in a motor that will be thrashed on the strip, but budget motors are certaintly possible. Going 383 doesn't fit in the same sentence with budget. Don't under estimate the Votrec heads, but keep everything compatible, tell us what your budget is and what your setup will be.

[F-BIRD'88]

"cheap" = forget the roller cam. Forget the stroker crank.

+.060" 350 with flat top pistons. get the block "0 decked"
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

This kit has 10-10 bearings and +.060 pistons.

resize stock GM 350rods with arp bolts.
stock GM 350 cast crank.

Summit Aluminum heads

Hand port matched vic Jr intake 750cfm carb
Isky #201547
solid flat tappet cam and isky lifters
Isky 547-A timing specs degree in the cam on a 102° intake C/L

Summit roller rockers

This is a simple, power, full cheap, bolt together dependable bracket motor.
max bang for the buck. The money you would have wasted on a retro roller cam+kit is much better spent on cylinder heads.
The money you saved on the stroker crank you can spend on a quality racing torque converter (9" 4000 stall)
4.10's short slick 4.56 tall slick

This motor is fine on 150-180hp spray if you run it on 100% 110-114 octane race gas and watch the spark timing. Open up the piston ring end gaps for nitrous. bigger is better.
Any more spray than this is not "cheap".

[tuneup427]

I would agree with F-bird. You can now get stroker cranks for around 2 bills but the rods(cause you don't want to run the short 400 rods) , pistons, balancer and flex plate will be a $1000 plus little stuff. So the $200 crank is just the beginning. Yes, there is no substitute for cubes but those cubes cost $$$$. Vortec heads will work well up to about 400-450 real hp. If you get bored with that you can spray another couple hundred. Spend your money on slicks. But thats just me. Next time your at the track ask the small block racers in your class what crank they run. I'll bet the 355 are in the zone. Good luck and let us know how it works.

[DoubleVision]

My view is Torque wins races, not horsepower. But thats just my view.

[tuneup427]

I agree, unless you got a huge budget.

[tuneup427]

Here is something I have observed. Once I have a good basic engine the things that cut my E.T are #1. torque converter #2 rear end gears #3 slicks (short slicks can work for #2 if the gears are in the 3.73 or lower) #4 additional engine mod. (trick heads, more trick cam.....) and they usually require more of 1-3. Ever try running a real hot cam with a stock converter. Yea me too but what a waste.

[Opti]

Originally Posted by DoubleVision

My view is Torque wins races, not horsepower. But thats just my view.

I love a torquey motor for the street but for a dedicated drag racer I dont see why a stump puller is neccesary. If the thing doesnt make alot of torque the gear the **** out of it. gear reduction creates torque.

All of the proffesional drag racers i've ever known have always told me torque isnt important in drag racing.

[Opti]

I went and looked at the block and its a 1980 corvette block.

Im thinking GM crank, Scat I beams, Speed Pro Forged Pistons, ported Vortec, and I have no idea on the manifold or cam, but you guys thnk I should stick with a flat tappet?

[F-BIRD'88]

Originally Posted by Opti

I went and looked at the block and its a 1980 corvette block.

Im thinking GM crank, Scat I beams, Speed Pro Forged Pistons, ported Vortec, and I have no idea on the manifold or cam, but you guys thnk I should stick with a flat tappet?

use the same Isky cam and a professional Products
#52032 Hurricane+ (vortec) manifold

[Opti]

You really like that cam dont you.

That son of a ***** is huge. I really like that its ground on a 106 though, I always hated that all the EFI guys run these wide LSA cams cause the big cam grinders think a 106 or 107 will not work with EFI. BS.

As far as im concerned a 106 is the only way to go on a SBC.

Do you have experience with this cam. The car will be very very occasionally street driven (probably just to and from the track).

[Chevrolet4x4s]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3176...ssemblies.html

Shane

[Opti]

I will not run cast or hyper pistons.

[F-BIRD'88]

Originally Posted by Opti

You really like that cam dont you.

That son of a ***** is huge. I really like that its ground on a 106 though, I always hated that all the EFI guys run these wide LSA cams cause the big cam grinders think a 106 or 107 will not work with EFI. BS.

As far as im concerned a 106 is the only way to go on a SBC.

Do you have experience with this cam. The car will be very very occasionally street driven (probably just to and from the track).

Yes I do , and yes you can drive it on the street (and to the track)
If you set the carb and distributor up properly with vacuum advance you'll find the street cruising and fuel mileage accepable for a racey motor.

These guys in Texas

have a great transmission- racing torque converter package for you.

[Opti]

Do you have experience with those guys. The verter was one thing I didnt want to cheap one.

Ive seen alot of guys by the cheaper stalls and have a lot of problems with them.

Will these guys build it to my specs, like tr, stall speed and everything.