[Pepsi]

Im building a frame for a hot rod I want to go model A kind of frame but without the frame horns in the front because my I beam will be in front of the frame..anyways.... what size of square tubing should I use 2x3? 1.5x3? and what thickness ??? 1/8? 3/16???

Thanks

L.

[Tbucit]

Really if you want to follow the same basic shape of the "A" you will need to use 2x4 tubing and I used 3/16 wall. You may be able to go thinner but I like to tap holes for my brake and fuel lines and the thicker wall helps with that. The "A" frame tapers from the middle to both the front and rear, one to meet the frame horn which you aren't using and the other to the rear cross member. I sawed out these tapers and folded the small side of the tubing and re welded them to the sides. I used a model A front cross member which held the spring. With the right tools its a 3 or 4 day job.
Randall

[OneMoreTime]

I stickwith the 2x4 0.120 wall myself and as far as drilling and tapping I use the self drilling screws for the small widgetry and that seems to work just fine..The 2x4 is a bit stiffer which will be very helpful if one ever gets aroudn to putting a serious motor in one of those things..

Sam

[Pepsi]

I know ... but the 2x3 looks kind of square. I like the 1.5x3x3/16 it's thicker and looks cleaner and is as stiff as the 2x3x1/8 other than a strenght issue, is the 2x3 absolutely necessary? Ialso think I'll go with a straight frame no taper from front to back...I also need to know what is the kick up hight for the rear end the angle and the lenght.
Thanks

L.

[BOBCRMAN@aol.com]

I use 2x4" .120 wall for heavier cars. 1 1/2x3" for "T" buckets etc. PLENTY of strength. As these are mostly short wheelbase, ladder type frames. My driver "Bucket" has a 1 1/2"x3".120 wall frame that was built in the seventies and has weathered many thousands (over 80) of Michigan pot holes and ruts (miles).

As for kickup in rear. This depends on ride height desired. Type of rear suspension, positioning of rear housing. Every creation varies.