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Old 10-22-2012, 09:26 AM
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Building a STREETABLE BBC for spray

Hey everyone, I'm looking for help building a BBC for spray that I can still drive everyday. It's a 468 with Eagle forged internals and trick flow 280cc heads. It and 11:1 compression it puts down about 620hp. I want to be able to run a 300 shot in it but I'm worried about melting a piston or breaking something with the internals.

My questions are:
Will the initial "hit" hurt a BB w/ forged internals? Or should I use less spray?
Can I do a 300 shot with a two stage kit or will that make a diff? What are things I need to concider when building a nitrous motor?

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Old 10-22-2012, 03:46 PM
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As long as you know somewhat about what you are doing. MSD box with retard helps. Double safety on fuel solenoids. I have a set of 496 JE forgings in the "Trophy room" that the guys fuel solenoid didn't work. They look like they were in an aluminum smelter for a while. Domes/ring lands melted down to the wrist pins..
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:55 PM
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I agree about the fuel and retarding the ignition for sure. What about that initial "hit" of no N2O to a 300 shot? Is a twin stage system worth while in this case or should the NOS be "ramped" up over a second or so? And also what is the limit of how much you can VERY RELIABLY spray a BBC? Hp wise?
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nskyline34 View Post
Hey everyone, I'm looking for help building a BBC for spray that I can still drive everyday. It's a 468 with Eagle forged internals and trick flow 280cc heads. It and 11:1 compression it puts down about 620hp. I want to be able to run a 300 shot in it but I'm worried about melting a piston or breaking something with the internals.

My questions are:
Will the initial "hit" hurt a BB w/ forged internals? Or should I use less spray?
Can I do a 300 shot with a two stage kit or will that make a diff? What are things I need to concider when building a nitrous motor?
Not sure why you want or need that much HP on the street but trust me, don't worry about breaking parts on a high performance engine, it will happen regardless of the internals, GUARANTEED

You also need the drivetrain (transmission, rearend, etc.) to handle the HP. Again, don't worry about breaking any of those parts either.
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:40 PM
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A progressive controller will make hooking up the extra power much easier. A 300hp hit is just going to blow any street tire off. Slicks or MTDR is another story.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:47 PM
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It would be going in a mud truck. What's the post likely thing that will break on it?
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:01 PM
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top ring groove will likely break if the ring gap is too close
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:11 PM
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make sure you have plenty of RPM when you hit the button or you can break a rod. Ring gaps need a little extra space as already noted. On a mud truck there's no telling what drivetrain part will give out.

It'd be fun to set up a little bet on which parts will fail next. Mud trucks place a very high and inconsistent load on an engine and drivetrain- makes it fun to guess what will happen.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:23 PM
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Don't RPM that motor up before you hit the button. Make sure your well below the redline of the motor. In the mud... When you hit the button your motor's gonna rpm instantly since you will have so much wheel spin.

Watch your fuel pressure. You better off having a dedicated fuel pump. One cough and its bad new.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:07 AM
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11:1 cr+ 300 shot + pump gas......you might get 1 or 2 chances at this.
Watch out for flying parts....LOL
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:51 AM
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"Streetable" mud truck? Does not compute.
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