Burned out my new starter! Why?
Replaced a starter for a 305 GM engine, Manual transmission, used no shims.
When I put in the clutch & turned the key, the starter started cranking, when I turned the key to the run position, and then to off, and released the clutch, the starter just kept cranking. As the battery was running down, I tried to disconnect the terminals, but, too late the starter stopped, and burned out a spot on the armature.
1. Short in the wiring?
2. No shims caused the starter drive gear to bind into the flywheel gear and kept the solenoid engaged?
3. Any other ideas?
What is best way to tell what shims are needed, on a setup in the car already?
I have heard that you need a paper clip to fit in the valley between the gears on the drive and the flywheel.... How do you see in there? What has to be removed?
MARTZY: A good sugestion would be to install a battery disconnect switch. The little switch with a turn knob on top are less than five dollars at a swap meet. To tell if you need shims they say to use a paper clip between the starter drive gear and flex plate. You can use a srew driver to pull the starter bendix out which will push the starter gear out onto the flexplate. That is where you make your clearance measurement. If the starter motor stayed engaged electrically then you had a short in the solenoid circuit. You should be able to check that with a light or voltmeter to see if there is 12 volts on coil side of solenoid when you turn key to start, it should drop off when you go to run position. If that checks out okay then do voltage check on power side of solenoid and see if there is 12 volts on power terminals when there is no power on coil. For the starter to stay engerized all the time there has to be a short in the solenoid as it is the only thing in the circuit between battery and starter ground. You know years ago when they had cranks you never would of had this problem. Let us know what you found. GOOD LUCK DAVE E SHANK
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