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Old 01-06-2011, 03:13 PM
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buying a new truck and need info

buying a new truck and need info
the seller is stating a lot of info about the engine and truck built
1. I would like to see with some pros if it makes all sence, and if it is possible (700HP)
2. I would also like to know if anything seems missing or what questions i should ask
here it is:
1964 Chevrolet C10. This has the best of everything and was professionally built. Blown 8.5:1, 355cu.in. 4-bolt main "010" High Nickel Heavy Duty Chevy small block, ARP Studded, fully balanced and blueprinted, Steel Forged crank, TRW Blower Pistons, and the latest cast 202 Bowties heads fully ported polished and cc'd with Manley Stainless Steel Valves. The only oil used is Royal Purple Synthetic 20w50 with a Mobil 1 big block Synthetic Filter. The Blower is a Polished Weiand 6-71 being underdriven by 9%. Twin Edelbrock Performer Series 600cfm Carbs custom done for Blower Applications topped off with a Polished Aluminum Hilborn Style Dual Quad Blower Scoop. MSD Pro Distributor, Blaster Coil, and Taylor Wires. Griffin Aluminum Radiator with a 16" 2100Cfm Perma Cool electric Fan. Billet Specialties Pullies, Valve Covers, Breathers, Wire Looms, Line Clamps etc. Lokar Braided Throttle Cable, Gas & Brake Pedals and Engine & Trans Dipsticks. All true Stainless AN Braided Lines And Stainless Hard Lines even the Brake Lines. Custom Headers and Flowmaster Mufflers HPC coated and chrome plated full 3" exhaust system all the way to the tail. Putting out about 700HP w/out any Nitrous here! Runs fine on premium pump gas. It has a smoothed and moulded in Volare / Aspen Subframe, all the front suspension components are new and have been replaced and are either chrome plated or painted to match the body. The trans is a full manual pro built TH400 with a forward pattern, B&M 168 Tooth SFI Flexplate, 3000 stall converter and a B&M ratchet shifter. The rear is narrowed and totally rebuilt with a 3.73 posi unit. The Custom rear suspension has Aluminum & Chrome Pro Coilovers, a Polished Stainless Steel Panhard Bar and a Custom Made Chrome Plated Driveshaft. Autometer Pro Comp Liquid Filled gauges and a hidden Wiring Harness. The polished stainless Fuel cell is hidden under the bed floor and between the frame rails, it is connected to a Mallory Fuel Filter & ProComp 140Gph/14Psi electric fuel pump. The Fuel Line is 1/2" (#8AN) braided and stainless hardline all the way to the front.

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Old 01-07-2011, 06:22 AM
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is 700 HP possible with a 350 010 block bored to 355 with all these components?
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Old 01-07-2011, 01:13 PM
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Sounds very pretty to look at, but not much else.

Trees
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Old 01-07-2011, 01:33 PM
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[QUOTE=trees]Sounds very pretty to look at, but not much else.

Trees[/QUOTE


no hatters needed,
i am looking for info, and looking to learn, thats all
not much else WHAT???
if you have nothing constructive to reply, don't reply
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Old 01-07-2011, 01:51 PM
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If it were me, I would want to see dyno slips, with pictures. Alterantely, I would want to see it on the dyno, showing the claimed numbers.
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Old 01-07-2011, 05:43 PM
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Locomotion, lets take a deep breath and start over. You have 4 posts on this board and I have no feel for your experience level, like and dislikes and that can cover your thoughts about me and my opinions. First, I am not big on gleam and glitter on a street rod or any vehicle that I own. I am big on performance which includes comfort, driveability, handling, safety, and reliability. I am not big on chrome/polished/billet/AN and current trends and fads. Lot of buzz words used in description of motor but not one spec on the cam, lifters, port volumes, combustion chamber or valve timing. I guess I would request this info from the builder along with the dyno sheets to back up his horsepower figures.

The bottom line, you should express your expectations of this truck to get some realistic opinions on whether it would meet them or you would be sorely disappointed. I will never forget a friend of mine that took a very nice 36 Ford pick up and had it built to include a lot of similarities of this truck. He trailered it to a fairly large show in the Salt Palace in Salt Lake City and took best of Show. A few weeks later, he came by the house wanting me to take a spin in his truck and comment. I did and it was a huge disappointment in performance, ride, and handling. When we got back, I invited him to take the same loop in my 36 pickup which was getting pretty long in the teeth at that time. I also insisted that he drive. During the drive, he said he was embarrassed because of the difference of driveability, performance, ride and handling. He regretted all of the time and money he spent building a truck with all the bling that you read about in the magazines and he ended up with a truck he could not enjoy.

Trees
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:01 PM
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tks trees
that is exactly the kind of comment i was looking for
i am not a pro (far from it) in hot-rods and came to this site not to show-off but to learn stuff
i know my stock 1960's Canadian Pontiac pretty well , but other than that!!!
i came to this site to get info on what seems like a very nice truck to me, but like most people have said about it in the engine category, i need to research it some more and i didn't know what questions to ask the seller.....i didn't want to ask useless questions, i want to get to the bottom of what he is really selling
the truck looks awesome, but i don't want to buy a show truck only, i want to buy (like you said) a nice truck that i can enjoy driving
700 hp sound nice , but do i need 700 hp .....NO
i don't want to race the thing, i just want to drive it and have fun going to car shows
the glam of the truck is what i like , because it seems to be really well done, but i don't want a trophy truck
tks
Max
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Old 01-10-2011, 04:42 PM
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trees pretty much nailed it. But now on to the claim of 700 hp. I speak from some experiance having a couple of blown rides, but more important in the last year I have motor dyno'ed once and chassis dyno'ed twice. First, the compression ratio being low will allow for more boost. With it 9% underdriven and the cr, no way 700 hp. To see if you want to trust this seller, show up with a G-Tech with triaxial accelerometer (any of their newer ones) ask him for the weight of the truck, add your and his body weight and nail it in 2nd gear. Fast, cheap, and relatively safe dyno run that is accurate +/- 1%. Chances are good it might lay down somewhere around 300 hp.

Boib
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