![]() |
|
|
|
||||
|
buying a new truck and need info
buying a new truck and need info
the seller is stating a lot of info about the engine and truck built 1. I would like to see with some pros if it makes all sence, and if it is possible (700HP) 2. I would also like to know if anything seems missing or what questions i should ask here it is: 1964 Chevrolet C10. This has the best of everything and was professionally built. Blown 8.5:1, 355cu.in. 4-bolt main "010" High Nickel Heavy Duty Chevy small block, ARP Studded, fully balanced and blueprinted, Steel Forged crank, TRW Blower Pistons, and the latest cast 202 Bowties heads fully ported polished and cc'd with Manley Stainless Steel Valves. The only oil used is Royal Purple Synthetic 20w50 with a Mobil 1 big block Synthetic Filter. The Blower is a Polished Weiand 6-71 being underdriven by 9%. Twin Edelbrock Performer Series 600cfm Carbs custom done for Blower Applications topped off with a Polished Aluminum Hilborn Style Dual Quad Blower Scoop. MSD Pro Distributor, Blaster Coil, and Taylor Wires. Griffin Aluminum Radiator with a 16" 2100Cfm Perma Cool electric Fan. Billet Specialties Pullies, Valve Covers, Breathers, Wire Looms, Line Clamps etc. Lokar Braided Throttle Cable, Gas & Brake Pedals and Engine & Trans Dipsticks. All true Stainless AN Braided Lines And Stainless Hard Lines even the Brake Lines. Custom Headers and Flowmaster Mufflers HPC coated and chrome plated full 3" exhaust system all the way to the tail. Putting out about 700HP w/out any Nitrous here! Runs fine on premium pump gas. It has a smoothed and moulded in Volare / Aspen Subframe, all the front suspension components are new and have been replaced and are either chrome plated or painted to match the body. The trans is a full manual pro built TH400 with a forward pattern, B&M 168 Tooth SFI Flexplate, 3000 stall converter and a B&M ratchet shifter. The rear is narrowed and totally rebuilt with a 3.73 posi unit. The Custom rear suspension has Aluminum & Chrome Pro Coilovers, a Polished Stainless Steel Panhard Bar and a Custom Made Chrome Plated Driveshaft. Autometer Pro Comp Liquid Filled gauges and a hidden Wiring Harness. The polished stainless Fuel cell is hidden under the bed floor and between the frame rails, it is connected to a Mallory Fuel Filter & ProComp 140Gph/14Psi electric fuel pump. The Fuel Line is 1/2" (#8AN) braided and stainless hardline all the way to the front. |
|
||||
|
Quote:
first and most important is is 700 HP possible with a 350 010 block bored to 355 with all these components? |
|
||||||
|
It is possible, 90% of what you posted has nothing to do with how much HP the engine is capable of.
|
|
||||
|
Quote:
well now you see my ignorance what questions should i ask and what is the 90% that i should ask tks |
|
||||||
|
Static c.r.? Cam specs? What differential? Who built the trans?
Like 327 says, show me receipts, pictures, spec sheets. Keep in mind there are some things you can't verify, the internals. |
|
|||||
|
Most of the time you can tell a lot by how the thing looks. If everything is pristine and neat and doesn't look like he cheaped out anywhere then it probably is pristine, and neat, and he didn't cheap out anywhere.
for the engine, you can ask all of the details, and those are nice if he remembers them (I can't always remember every detail of all the stuff i built), but at 700hp he will be able to provide a dyno sheet, chassis or engine dyno. You don't stumble upon a 700hp combination and not have the thing tuned properly. |
|
||||||
|
I'd call bull on this one. Big Al gets about 11g for 600+ hp. You are talking about a race motor on the street. Can you let it sit in gear and idle untouched for 45 min in 95 deg heat with the AC on?? A local guy does E-85 carbs and has about 700 hp in his 383. It runs very well and is as close to a daily driver as you can get. Only problem is where do you find E-85 out in the country back roads??
Next the heads are bowtie?? What you will need something aluminum that breathes very well supercharged for this kind of hp. Underdriven 9%, give me a break, maybe 6-7 # boost. Better have him run it on the dyno for you. 327nut has a good point Buyer beware |
|
||||
|
why does price matter?
|
|
|
| Recent Engine posts with photos |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| buying a new truck and need info | locomotion | Hotrodders' Lounge | 7 | 01-10-2011 03:42 PM |
| buying a truck | zcxtmi | Hotrodders' Lounge | 8 | 09-15-2006 04:21 PM |
| Buying new heads - need general info | vetteguy | Engine | 11 | 04-09-2005 03:16 PM |
| Need some advise on buying a used truck.. | 383MontecarloSS | Hotrodders' Lounge | 14 | 02-25-2004 03:52 PM |
| Buying used pistons a good idea? also buying a used cam? | LoudMalibu | Engine | 5 | 03-20-2003 01:53 PM |