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Old 09-01-2006, 08:34 PM
72NOVA454
 
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C-Clip Eliminator Kit Help

I'm planning on redoing the backend of my 72 nova this winter. I plan on keeping the stock GM 8.5" 10-bolt housing but having it welded up. I will get new ring/pinion and rebuild kit and new axles. I will add some type of traction control - either Caltracs or Slapper bars.

Question: do I need the C-Clip eliminator kit and associated matching axles or is it not required for what I am doing? If it's not required I don't want to do the work and pay the money for it.

My car is a "street car" that will run 11's in the quarter. It is not a "drag" racing car.

Your opinions please. This stuff is new to me.

Also, will the stock axle housings have to be cut if I need the C-Clip eliminator kits.

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Old 09-01-2006, 09:03 PM
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have you gotten into the rear yet? if you havnt, when you do you will realize how bad of a design that really is.
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Old 09-01-2006, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njbloodline666
have you gotten into the rear yet? if you havnt, when you do you will realize how bad of a design that really is.
No. I'm still driving the car through October. November 1st is goes into the garage and under the knife. That's when I'll have a look at it. I would like to have a plan of attack before I do the surgery. Right now I still don't have a plan.
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Old 09-01-2006, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leejoy
No. I'm still driving the car through October. November 1st is goes into the garage and under the knife. That's when I'll have a look at it. I would like to have a plan of attack before I do the surgery. Right now I still don't have a plan.
ok i google imaged c clip and this is what i came up with. you see how thin the area of the axle is where the clip slides in, also look at the clip itself. i would think that on the street in an 11 second car, a little throttle around a curve or doing a donut maybe and you could crack that and have your inside axle slide right out. if you can afford it, go with the eliminator its cheap insurance. then again, when you add up all the "cheap insurance" that would be required by the end of the build. its a pretty heafty price
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Old 09-01-2006, 09:29 PM
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oh yeah, and be prepared to smell like gear oil for a week
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Old 09-01-2006, 10:06 PM
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I talked to a Moser rep a couple of years ago at the track, and he said C-clip eliminators will leak a little. He recommended keeping the C-clips for street use and using their heavy-duty stock-type axles, or going whole-hog and replacing the entire axle tube ends.
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Old 09-02-2006, 06:57 AM
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I know what it takes to go 11 seconds, so I know what you spent on your engine. And now you are doing everything you can to save $ on the rear end. How much peace of mind are you spending. Put a 9 inch in it.
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Old 09-02-2006, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njbloodline666
ok i google imaged c clip and this is what i came up with. you see how thin the area of the axle is where the clip slides in, also look at the clip itself. i would think that on the street in an 11 second car, a little throttle around a curve or doing a donut maybe and you could crack that and have your inside axle slide right out. if you can afford it, go with the eliminator its cheap insurance. then again, when you add up all the "cheap insurance" that would be required by the end of the build. its a pretty heafty price
excellent photo dude. thanks for the help.

Lee
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Old 09-02-2006, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redsdad
I know what it takes to go 11 seconds, so I know what you spent on your engine. And now you are doing everything you can to save $ on the rear end. How much peace of mind are you spending. Put a 9 inch in it.
actually I havent put much into the motor to get the 550 HP out of it. Didnt cost much at all. Anyway, the 8.5" 10-bolt is pretty strong from what I have read. Cars run 9 seconds in the quarter with a spool using that setup. I would love to go with a Ford 9 inch but trying to convince myself that the cost would be worth it. I've got a guy who will sell me the entire housing, plus the 3rd member, cut the axle tubes to fit my car, give me new axles, brakes, new bearings all arounds, etc for about $2200. Sounds fair. but if I can keep my existing 8.5" 10-bolt housing and beef it up, get new axles, new ring/pinion, C-clip eliminators, I can probably do all that for under $1000. I found a guy that will weld the axle tubes and setup the entire carrier and ring pinion for me plus a rebuild kit for $400. I'm still thinking what I should do. I will make a decision in October.
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Old 09-03-2006, 10:55 PM
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Ford 9's might be stronger then a 8.5" 10-bolt but they are also heavier and less efficient. Hard to put all that work into a nice chevy and then put in a ford part that makes you slower

I am not a big fan of c-clip eliminators, so I guess I am with the Moser rep. Either go with stronger stock replacement axles or weld new ends onto the housing.

C-clips only fail if they are poorly maintained for many many years. In fact they are STRONGER when it comes to side loads then the ford type bearings! They will however let the axle come out if your axle shaft breaks.

If however you use disc brakes in the rear (money well spent for a street car!) the caliper will not let the axle fall out. Toss in some quality 30-spline c-clip axles, diff of your choice, disc brakes, and have a strong, light, all chevy car

YMMV

Edit: If you run a spool you have to get rid of the c-clips right ...otherwise you don't have to ditch them to 10.90 right ...I forgot about the spool part when I was posting the above

Last edited by Triaged; 09-03-2006 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 09-04-2006, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triaged
Ford 9's might be stronger then a 8.5" 10-bolt but they are also heavier and less efficient. Hard to put all that work into a nice chevy and then put in a ford part that makes you slower

I am not a big fan of c-clip eliminators, so I guess I am with the Moser rep. Either go with stronger stock replacement axles or weld new ends onto the housing.

C-clips only fail if they are poorly maintained for many many years. In fact they are STRONGER when it comes to side loads then the ford type bearings! They will however let the axle come out if your axle shaft breaks.

If however you use disc brakes in the rear (money well spent for a street car!) the caliper will not let the axle fall out. Toss in some quality 30-spline c-clip axles, diff of your choice, disc brakes, and have a strong, light, all chevy car

YMMV

Edit: If you run a spool you have to get rid of the c-clips right ...otherwise you don't have to ditch them to 10.90 right ...I forgot about the spool part when I was posting the above
Hmmm......Interesting. I like what you had to say. One thing about the rear disc brakes, though. I still have drum in the front. Is it ok to have rear disc and front drum?
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Old 09-04-2006, 09:58 PM
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Ditch those front drums too. I hate drum brakes. They are even more unforgivable on the front then they are on the rear. I have always been one to worry about the woe with the go (heck right now I have an S10 with 12" disc up front and 30-spline 8.5" 10-bolt out back with disc brakes and still have a 2.8L under the hood ). No use making a run in the 11's and being scared that you are not going to be able to stop it.
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