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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2012, 12:14 PM
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Pages G 67 and G 68 should show the expansion valve. On jap cars they are in the evaporator case. And the japs did it right, the evap case is a breeze to get in and out. US cars... not so much.

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Old 07-23-2012, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
No problem. O rings wont know the difference.
I would however see if there is an exspansion valve available for the R134.
Check to see if a 94 valve will fit, then use it.It is better calibrated for 134a . It will cool a little better, and more importantly keep the head pressure (high pressure side in the compressor) down so the compressor doesnt work so hard, and lives longer.
If you have O rings to replace the areas that you are dissasembling , use them. If not, as long as they are pliable, and are not deformed to the shape they are when installed under pressure, use them.When an o ring takes a set to a shape other than round, either circumferentially, or radialy they are NOT OK. Naturaly any O ring that is cut or split is a no brainer. Hope this helps.
I believe there is already an expansion valve installed from factory.
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:36 PM
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There is. What I was saying is the valve in the 93 would be clibrated for R 12 and the 94 would be calibrated for R134a.
A retrofit would work either way, but the system would cool a little better, be more stable, and have a head pressure that would help keep the compressor alive longer if you changed the R 12 calibrated expansion valve to a R 134a calibrated unit. Thats all. just saying.
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:43 PM
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Just looked up expansion valve for 94. While its different part # it looks same
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:39 PM
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As far as o-rings, do they have to be special A/C rings (made out of special rubber) or regular rubber ones from hardware store would work?
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:21 PM
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You need to get O rings made for AC systems. Freon is real tough on generic butyl.

Most new components you buy, like driers and evaps and stuff come with the O rings needed.
A good parts store like NAPA will have an assortment you can buy or maybe they have some small packs you can buy, or a pack you can pick and choose from. Shop around. If you need a specific size , the dealer usually has them, they might be a couple bucks, but its better than having a leak when you are done.
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Old 07-25-2012, 05:19 PM
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What's the purpose of putting oil on o-rings during install? Are they supposed to swell up a bit from oil and seal better?
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Old 07-25-2012, 05:24 PM
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It allows them to slide into the coupling without getting pinched or cut.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:46 PM
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I've been reading factory repair manuals and it states when charging I should open high-pressure side of manifold and charge until low-pressure side reading is at 10psi. Then you check for leaks and it there's no leaks you're supposed to charge with the half of regular amount of refrigerant. This is supposed to be with engine off.
I've always though you only charge on low side but factory service manuals state otherwise.
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:52 PM
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Not sure why, maybe to help redistribute oil, dunno.
Everyone charges through the low side , except maybe the factory where they have the equiptment to dump a liquid charge in the high side on the assembly line. Its fast that way, and the charge is accurate, but I am sure it aint cheap.
Charge through the low side .
I allways turn a compressor after I install one, to make sure the oil redistributes itself, to keep the compressor from hydrolocking and breaking it. Usually I rotate it 12 -15 revolutions , with a socket on the clutch nut. If there is no nut , i turn it by its face. just as long as you turn it, you'll be sure the compressor doesnt get damaged.
You better watch out, you'll be an old AC pro before you know it,
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:16 PM
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What I did with oil is I've dumped 1/2 in the dryer and then dumped some in the yellow hose/recharge hose. Opened can and bled it to make sure there was no air and then I've opened low pressure side and charged it that way.
It didn't want to cool off much (thermometer in the vent) stayed at ~60-65F and then I drove it around and I guess it stabilized and now its ~45F like its supposed to.
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:53 PM
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:01 PM
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Now just waiting for a/c dryer for my mazda. Should be here this weekend. I haven't had working A/C on it since I've owned it. I just hope compressor will work and PAG oil won't mess it up.
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:24 PM
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Took my gauges to work today to check co-workers truck. He was complaining that it takes forever to cool off air inside. First thing I've noticed is his recirculate wasn't on. Turned it on and temp went to ~40 like it should
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:28 PM
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You would be suprised how many people dont know about running the HVAC on Recirc. If only they would read the owners manual...
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