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Old 07-14-2012, 12:04 AM
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A/C recharge

So my aunts cars AC blows hot air. I went ahead and filled bottle of R134 and as it was filling it started hissing and just smoked from condenser area and had a bit of nasty smell. It looks like condenser has tiny hole in it and just blew out whatever I tried putting in the system.
I went ahead and bought new condenser and vacuum pump and a/c manifold set. I think I should run some dye in the system just to see where it's leaking from. Perhaps there's more leaks. I need to pick up black light and glasses.
Anyone else service a/c themselves.
I thought it'd be quick and easy fill up but turned out otherwise

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Old 07-14-2012, 06:57 AM
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I would add some dye to the system, seeing that you have had it open, and other problems are possible.Makes finding small leaks much easier.
I have in the past charged a system with some nitrogen from a bottle,to check for any major leaks, but a slow leak may still take a few hours or days to expire the gas in the system.You can use shop air if that is what is available, just remember that shop air usually has moisture in it so a good long deep vacuum is a must after testing that way.
I have owned electronic leak detectors , like Tif, interdynamics and a few others.I have used a few yokogawa detectors and they are in my opinion hands down the best. Pricier than the others but way better.
Sounds like you found the main problem.The condenser gets hammered with debris and rocks from the road.Its no wonder it has a hole in it.
You can tie a piece of screen in front of it to help keep bugs out and ocks from damaging it. The plastic window screen is best, it doesnt rust , its easy to use and fit, and it is softer, giving a little padding to the condenser when a stone flys up to poke a hole.
Tooltopia has the yellow glasses kits for about 60 bucks. It come with dye for AC, engine, etc.good price.
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:27 AM
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You might want to replace the receiver dryer/ accumulator before you recharge it. The fact that your system has been open to outside air ( your leaking condenser) means that it is no longer doing it's job. The dissonant bag inside of it will be saturated with moisture. Stick a new one on.
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:29 PM
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I need to add oil with those 2 components replaced. Can I add it to low pressure port?
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:19 PM
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I used to add to the dryer prier to installation. Yes you can add oil through the suction side.
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Old 07-16-2012, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
I used to add to the dryer prier to installation. Yes you can add oil through the suction side.
Which oil would I use for 2001 Camry? I read in shop manual it calls for ND-OIL8 whatever that is. Local auto parts stores carry all kind of different ones.
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Old 07-16-2012, 05:17 PM
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Its most likely a PAG oil. Most OEMS, if not all went that way. Use the synthetic I was talking about.
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
I would add some dye to the system, seeing that you have had it open, and other problems are possible.Makes finding small leaks much easier.
I have in the past charged a system with some nitrogen from a bottle,to check for any major leaks, but a slow leak may still take a few hours or days to expire the gas in the system.You can use shop air if that is what is available, just remember that shop air usually has moisture in it so a good long deep vacuum is a must after testing that way.
I have owned electronic leak detectors , like Tif, interdynamics and a few others.I have used a few yokogawa detectors and they are in my opinion hands down the best. Pricier than the others but way better.
Sounds like you found the main problem.The condenser gets hammered with debris and rocks from the road.Its no wonder it has a hole in it.
You can tie a piece of screen in front of it to help keep bugs out and ocks from damaging it. The plastic window screen is best, it doesnt rust , its easy to use and fit, and it is softer, giving a little padding to the condenser when a stone flys up to poke a hole.
Tooltopia has the yellow glasses kits for about 60 bucks. It come with dye for AC, engine, etc.good price.
Went to local parts store and picked up uv light/glasses for $15 and some uv dye that you spray right into Low pressure side for $8 or so
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Old 07-16-2012, 07:15 PM
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I bought the kit, with the 50 watt halogen bulb and black filter lens, glasses and dye for AC oil trans etc.
Might be a little different than what you bought. I have seen the penlite size lights for about 15 bucks, but they arent real bright and make it hard to see anything at times.
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:46 PM
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I found out that PAG 46 is compatible for ND-OIL 8 (factory oil)
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Old 07-21-2012, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
Its most likely a PAG oil. Most OEMS, if not all went that way. Use the synthetic I was talking about.
This is the R134a I'm using. It states that it already has 1oz of "lubricant"

Should I still go ahead and add PAG oil?
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Old 07-21-2012, 07:37 PM
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I wouldnt use the oil/freon combo to charge with.
Add 3 ounces of oil to the low side then connect the hose, and charge the system.
the system calls for about 26 ounces IIRC, and if you put in 2 cans of freon with oil, your only putting in 22 ounces of freon.
12 ounce can - one ounce of freon is left out in place of the oil.
I only use oil/freon charge when I have a partially charged system that needs a shot to quiet a compressor.
You want to get as close to the proper amount of freon in the system as you can. 2 12 ounce cans woulkd be 24 ounces.
Also the can you showed says leak sealer on it. Not a good Idea. Leak stop can plug up things and kill compressors.
The camry has a pretty well built system, should be able to fix your leaks easy, and all will be good.No need for stop leak.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
I wouldnt use the oil/freon combo to charge with.
Add 3 ounces of oil to the low side then connect the hose, and charge the system.
the system calls for about 26 ounces IIRC, and if you put in 2 cans of freon with oil, your only putting in 22 ounces of freon.
12 ounce can - one ounce of freon is left out in place of the oil.
I only use oil/freon charge when I have a partially charged system that needs a shot to quiet a compressor.
You want to get as close to the proper amount of freon in the system as you can. 2 12 ounce cans woulkd be 24 ounces.
Also the can you showed says leak sealer on it. Not a good Idea. Leak stop can plug up things and kill compressors.
The camry has a pretty well built system, should be able to fix your leaks easy, and all will be good.No need for stop leak.
Thanks.
Now I have 93 Mazda that had R12 in it. I want to retrofit R134a in it. Im buying new ac dryer, new condenser was installed years ago as old one was crashed. Somewhere I read that I have replace o-rings.
Is PAG oil compatible with old o-rings. I don't want to replace all o-rings if I can find a compatible oil.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:51 AM
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No problem. O rings wont know the difference.
I would however see if there is an exspansion valve available for the R134.
Check to see if a 94 valve will fit, then use it.It is better calibrated for 134a . It will cool a little better, and more importantly keep the head pressure (high pressure side in the compressor) down so the compressor doesnt work so hard, and lives longer.
If you have O rings to replace the areas that you are dissasembling , use them. If not, as long as they are pliable, and are not deformed to the shape they are when installed under pressure, use them.When an o ring takes a set to a shape other than round, either circumferentially, or radialy they are NOT OK. Naturaly any O ring that is cut or split is a no brainer. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
No problem. O rings wont know the difference.
I would however see if there is an exspansion valve available for the R134.
Check to see if a 94 valve will fit, then use it.It is better calibrated for 134a . It will cool a little better, and more importantly keep the head pressure (high pressure side in the compressor) down so the compressor doesnt work so hard, and lives longer.
If you have O rings to replace the areas that you are dissasembling , use them. If not, as long as they are pliable, and are not deformed to the shape they are when installed under pressure, use them.When an o ring takes a set to a shape other than round, either circumferentially, or radialy they are NOT OK. Naturaly any O ring that is cut or split is a no brainer. Hope this helps.
where would I install expansion valve at? Here's how factory system looks like
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