[65 Fairlane]

I have just had my c4 rebuilt, because it would not shift in to drive or 3rd gear which is the same thing. After installing everything back in the car as it came out, it still will not shift into drive? It will shift great from first to second and into reverse also. And when you accelerate it will also kick into passing gear. I can pull out and shift manually or pull out in drive and still have the same results. I even adjusted the modulator valve counter clock wise about a turn and a half with no different results. I do not have a vacuum tester, but it seems to have plenty of vacuum on the line. It is also a new modulator valve. The guy that rebuilt it is known for doing a good job and was recommended. He was very inexpensive of only being $250 with parts included and works at a auto parts store. Can you please give me some advice, I am flustered and would like to drive this some before winter gets here. Thanks in advance for your advice.

[1965 Fairlane]

I tried several things and it still will not shift

[Irelands child]

That's great - now what do you want from the board??

[eloc431962]

Originally Posted by 1965 Fairlane

I tried several things and it still will not shift

Have you checked to see if the modulator valve is connected ?



Cole

[Irelands child]

Originally Posted by eloc431962

Have you checked to see if the modulator valve is connected ?



Cole

Cole - I'm having a problem with his OP, especially a new guy, 1st post - and I'm a died in the wool C4 person .
What did he do for diagnosis beyond saying "it doesn't work" ??


Dave W

[1965 Fairlane]

The modulator valve is in place and connected. It is new. I did adjust the modulator valve 1 1/2 turns counterclockwise to see if that would help and it didn't. Also I switched vacuum mounting on the intake, with the same results, still not shifting to drive. I even tried adjusting my linkage to line up better. Is there anything you could recommend for me to try next?

[Irelands child]

Drain and pull the pan and make sure you have a physical connection to the valve body operating that internal moveable spool that directs the fluid - it's a serrated piece that ratchets and is operated by the shift arm. LH side, about in the middle, and on the same plane as the shift arm. If the oil is new or almost new, strain it through a double paint strainer into a clean gallon jug and reuse it. If not new or it's not bright pink, pick up 5-9 quarts of F or FA (nothing else, regardless of what anyone tells you), a new filter and a good cork gasket . If it smells bad/burned - then it gets expensive. The total amount of ATF depends on whether you drain the convertor or not(you should)

I assume you do have enough ATF in there to begin with.