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C6 trans setup linkage and stuff?

48K views 37 replies 5 participants last post by  lil-vulky 
#1 ·
Been searching google for ages trying to find how to setup my c6 transmission but haven't found anything.

I need pictures/ diagrams on how the c6 linkage is ment to be hooked up so i can try figure out how to hook my linkage upto my car

also i read something about the vacum hose thingy on the tranmission? any pictures/ diagrams out there on this, mine has a thing on the trans with hoses on it but there just cut and go nowhere. . . not sure what this is for or where they go

also kickdown lever, do i need this? currently mine hasn't got one can i just ignore it or do i need one on to stop gearbox problems etc? i dont really mind if it doesnt drop down a gear when i put my foot down if i want more power i can manually drop it down a gear with the shifter but i read that without a kickdown it'l ruin my trans?

transmission is the only thing left to get my car moveable :) well after driveshaft shortened but need to go for a 3hour drive to somewhere that will shorten and balance it, no1 in my town does it

would prefer to do everything i can myself without taking it to get done, ran out of money lol
 
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#2 ·
You need a manifold (full time) vacuum source to the modulator. The detent/kick down is not mandatory.

Use the outer vacuum port on the modulator. The inner smaller vacuum port closest to the case was used w/the EGR emissions system, so unless you are using an EGR valve, leave it alone. You can replace the two port modulator w/a one port type if you wanted to. IIRC the modulator you have is the push in type, not the threaded type but look first if you swap it out. The push in type has a clamp and bolt holding it in, real easy to see.

For the shift linkage, are you using a stock column shifter, or a floor mounted shifter? Is it aftermarket or stock?
 
#3 ·
c6


cobalt is corect. You do need the kickdown,with out you will ruen the trans.when your throttle is wide open the kickdown should be on the stop. i used a throttle lever with a spring built in so you have a cushion in adjustements.i would sujest a vacume modulator that is adjustable(tiney screw inside vacume tube.do this and you will have a trans that shifts crisp and will take big power
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)

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Most of the older stuff that I had used a bell-crank and rod system like this (above).
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I believe that some of the newer models may have had cable-operated shift linkage as well. This pic (above) is from a 1993 F150 2WD with a 5.0L and an E4OD trans. I'm resonably sure that the same year with a 460 would use similar linkage with possibly different brackets. Try the wreckers?
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NAPA ATP 1-7243

The early C6's also used a single-line mudulator like this one, which is adjustable. This one had a green stripe on it, which was the most popular one.

There was usually a 90° rubber elbow that attached the modulator to a steel line, which was clipped to one of the bellhousing bolts to keep it stationary and secured. another peice of rubber vacuum hose from the steel tube to intake manifold direct vacuum.
 
#6 ·
thanks for the pictures and help very usefull, will get under there today and have a look around, its a factory floor shift c6 from a mustang.

Does anyone know where i can get a kickdown lever ? these engines and tranmissions ain't very common in NZ and the normal buy sell websites etc have no parts or anything for them
 
#7 ·
having a look at my linkage there is no kickdown thing? have attached a photo not the best was taken with my phone can get one with camera if to hard to see but this is my linkage on trans.

also which of these hoses are ment to be on the manifold vacum? number 1 or 2? and is the one not need ok left as it is or should i block it with a screw or something?



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#9 · (Edited)
which of these hoses are ment to be on the manifold vacum? number 1 or 2? and is the one not need ok left as it is or should i block it with a screw or something?
#2 gets the manifold vacuum. Leave #1 open to the air. You can use a piece of vacuum hose on it routed so nothing will get in it. Be sure it will hold vacuum. And that there is no ATF inside the vacuum hose or modulator port. If there is, it could be from the diaphragm leaking.

FWIW I am seeing elsewhere where people run w/o the kick down w/o problems, so I don't know what's up w/that. One way to get most of the needed parts is to get a Lokar kit, but it's pricy. It includes the bracket arm that goes to the tranny. I didn't look to see if there were other kits from the different vendors. The carb needs a bracket, too unless it's already on the carb. Holley sells them IIRC.

I don't think the shift arm you have is for the floor shifter. I seem to remember mine looking a lot like yours, and my Torino came w/a column shifter. At least until I changed it for a B&M floor shifter.
 
#10 ·
Based on the picture I posted ealier, I believe that what you have there is the SHIFT lever.

I would say that you are missing the kickdown lever, which attaches to the inner shaft.

I have also read, and tend to believe that you won't HURT the trans by not having the kickdown hooked up.

That being said though, it's much more convenient to have it hooked up and operating as it was designed to. Let the throttle position decide the appropriate time to downshift instead of having to manually shift into 2nd when you want to get around somebody on the highway, or even pull up a steep grade. And then there is having to remember to shift back into 3rd.

Bottom line:
It's an automatic, not a manually shifted automatic.
 
#14 ·
thanks alot thats great, was going to try use the jag shift and cable to hook up but no idea how so was thinking about just buying a whole shifter kit with everything that will be easy enough to install, will take the modulator off tomorrow if weather is still fine and check its ok but depends how much they are might just buy a new one anyways, will keep my eye out for a kickdown lever as well.

just finished putting my dash back in with all new gauges starting to look good. sucks not having anyone near that will shorten my driveshaft, 3hour drive to get it done and have't got any money for petrol grr lol cant wait for it to be going
 
#15 ·
c6



the center shaft is the kikdown(corect name is throtle presure)simple to get a lever frome wrecker or trans shop.if you do not use the kik down you wil have a poor shifting trans with a short life with any power in front.re the drive shaft dont skimp do it corectly,some of your help hear ar verry knowledgeable,others are useing hearsay .if you go to a trans shop they will help you get the strt goods
 
#20 · (Edited)
have just noticed a bolt missing just above the modulator, in the black circle that is where the modulator thingy goes and in the red circle is a threaded hole not sure what its for? it doesnt leak trans fluid or anything and has clean thread

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sorry about the angle of the picture, if you tilt your head to the right its the right way
 
#22 ·
have just noticed a bolt missing just above the modulator, in the black circle that is where the modulator thingy goes and in the red circle is a threaded hole not sure what its for? it doesnt leak trans fluid or anything and has clean thread

sorry about the angle of the picture, if you tilt your head to the right its the right way

red circle is return line from cooler for trans oil,

Modulator with dual vacuum lines: one line(center) is main manifold vacuum... outer vacuum line would be hooked to ported vacuum source.

The two lines work together for controlling shifts. Ported vacuum would help the trans to down shift sooner in a situation like turns the vehicle did not stop fully at.
 
#21 ·
so when i took my modulator out it was bent like it got hit on something so went to town to every mechanics or auto parts shop there was asking if they sold them, no1s ever heard of them, even there computer has nothing for c6 trans or ford 429/460 v8s grr why can't we have lots of these engines and stuff in the country. will have to try find one online from a big city or something, well thats my plans for the day gone... going to try look into making up a kickdown lever
 
#23 ·
ohhh i see, sooo ummm about this return line for the cooler, do i need it? if so where do i get and put a trans cooler . . . ahh :( can i just put a bolt in the hole and forget about a trans cooler? will try get a 1 hose modulator but if i can only get a 2 one, where abouts is a ported vacum? i know where to stick the main manifold vacum hose but not sure where a ported one is ?

also the trans is hooked upto the engine and iv had the engine going abit because had to get that all sorted . . . is the trans stuffed seen i had the engine running with all this stuff missing not attached etc. just woundering might be easier looking for a whole new trans :( not that i have money lol if there is still a chance my trans is fine ill try get all the bits sorted will be a hell of alot cheaper its like $1500+ NZD for a 2nd hand trans in good knows what condition.
 
#30 ·
Trans oil cooler is required. Return of oil from cooler into the open port in red circle... that return oil lubricates the transmission gears, bushings , thrust washers.... It would be same as running engine with no oil.

If you ran the engine with the trans attached and NO OIL in transmission .. you possibly burned up the transmission pump. Same as running an engine with NO OIL.

best of luck to you
 
#25 · (Edited)
probably such a stupid question but what is the bolt with pipe coming out of it called? the bolt that goes in the trans cooler hole. im trying to look for 2 bolts with the trans fluid line coming out so i can sort out that but i have no idea what its called to find out where i can get them

sort of thought a way about the kick down lever too, but this is what i was thinking, getting a bit of metal making it a circle with a groove on the outside for a cable to wrap around then hooking the cable upto the carby so when i put my foot down it will pull the cable which pulls the circle which will turn the kickdown thingy, sort of how throttle bodies work on efi cars. good or bad idea, easy or hard?



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#27 ·
probably such a stupid question but what is the bolt with pipe coming out of it called? the bolt that goes in the trans cooler hole. im trying to look for 2 bolts with the trans fluid line coming out so i can sort out that but i have no idea what its called to find out where i can get them

sort of thought a way about the kick down lever too, but this is what i was thinking, getting a bit of metal making it a circle with a groove on the outside for a cable to wrap around then hooking the cable upto the carby so when i put my foot down it will pull the cable which pulls the circle which will turn the kickdown thingy, sort of how throttle bodies work on efi cars. good or bad idea, easy or hard?



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I believe that "bolt with a pipe coming out of it" is a transmission cooler line.

NAPA # BKP 8131235 are 5/16" x 60" long. I actually prefer the armored version, but I'm having trouble finding them in the on-line catalog. These are also known as steel hydraulic brake lines.

You will also need 2 brass inverted flare fittings that screw into those holes on the side of the transmission case. I'm pretty sure that the size you will need will be 1/4" male (perhaps 1/8"?) pipe thread by 5/16" female inverted tube thread.

Weatherhead #202x5x4

As far as the kickdown rod goes, I suppose you could manufacture your own using some very light tubing ... something like 1/2" OD electrical conduit. pound it flat at the ends and drill a 5/16" dia hole. (That's pretty much what Ford used to do.) It's designed to push downward on the kickdown lever, not pull it up.

I can certainly sympathize with you in regards to finding parts for North-American built Fords in NZ. There probably isn't a NAPA store in every small town like there is here.

Do you have Pantera's there?
They had a Ford drive train (351C and a C6, IIRC) Still not likely to find dozens of those in the auto wreckers either.

If you CAN locate a NAPA store, even in Australia, I can supply you with most of the part numbers for things you will need.

Exego?
 
#26 ·
sorry for everyone who must be annoyed by my millions of questions by now :(.

But i have another. Lets say my trans might be stuffed but not sure because linkage not hooked up and driveshaft not put in yet, but i dont want to go out and buy/get all these parts i need for mine if i need a whole new trans, so when i get my driveshaft put in and linkage hooked up, will i be able to just put 2 normal bolts in the transmission cooler holes to stop fluid from leaking out and drive it? by drive it i mean check that it moves forward reverse and all the gears making sure my trans isnt stuffed. Just want to do the minimal amount needed for it to be test driven to make sure its not stuffed, because if i buy a new trans it would come with them parts anyways so would save me money buying the parts now to find i need a whole gearbox.

I wil be buying a new 1 port modulator regardless because even if i get a new trans id want a new 1 port one on it.

sorry if i dont make sence
 
#32 ·
also forgot to mention once i found there was no trans oil i put about 4litres in and put it in park, iv only had the engine running for short burst just to try get everything working on it. but the guy that had it before me had it running heaps before hand with no oil and stuck in drive so if its broken its his dam fault!
 
#33 ·
These are what i first had, A honda cbr250rr fully worked top speed over 250kmh chameleon paint job made it into a hell fast 250cc show bike. that i done all myself on a low budget.

i also owned a 120hp half cabin sea boat which looked a tad rough but was just the paint was a perfect boat loved it and loved going out fishing.

and my beloved 300zx non turbo manual. this was my first and only car i owned from factory for over 6 years i done everything myself, i retrimed the interior installed chrome dash and everything done the seats done the bonnet painted the outside 2 toned black and blue, it was making around 270hp at the wheels for a non turbo i owned it from 220,000kms untill over 300,000kms and it was the same engine not rebuilt or anything just chipped ecu intake and exhaust mods.

i sold all 3 of these to buy this limo which is the 2nd one in nz so hell rare no1 ever sees lincolns in NZ the limo was all my dreams of what i wanted i worked so hard coming up with the money selling everything using my savings because he said it was mint. I would upload photos of what the rust actually looked like but youz will have a heart attack it was honest so bad there was no floor ur feet would just sink straight threw the rust when u tried to hop in it, yes the engine ran nice and amazing which is why i liked the look of this jaguar i brought because same engine and thought it was going to be amazing but nope.



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#36 ·
so iv tested my radiator etc i think its just the cap holding to much pressure, redone my timing moved my ignition leads around changed spark plugs to eliminate faulty leads or plug for my miss, tomorrow im doing a full leak down test to check my heads fingers crossed everyone that my engine is fine because i have no money for new heads.

i also took my modulator into every mechanic and shop they jst kept redirecting me to other people ended up visting everyone and no1 can get them and no1 has those dam trans cooler fittings either not even hose and hydrulic shop. they only have big one none the right size. looks like ill buying the parts from overseas myself from the websites yous have suguested. but first off is test why it has a miss and if i have a cracked head.

Only reason im dissapointed is the guy that sold me this said it only needed driveshaft and it was mint, if it was lets say $5,000 cheaper then what i paid yeah i wouldn't mind fixing but i paid $9000 NZD for this and it cant even be legal because the plates and tags are fake dont match up and probably stolen. grrr
 
#38 ·
all i can really do is take him to court and get my money back, have spent lots since iv got it so would have to take my parts off etc, like when i took the guy with the limo to court i won but he said he can't pay me he has no money he spent it so the courts were like well you can pay him off $20 a week im like your joking right i get 10grand back at 20$ a week no thanks! they said i can settle for 2grand cash and keep the limo so i chose that option but then they gave him a date he had to pay . . . been 9months later havnt seen my money been back to the courts they said debt collectors wil go get my money . . . 3 months later still nothing. the justice system and courts over here are pathetic.

so yes i can take him to court but its not worth it. plates are tags i dont mind about i'll just turn it into a skid car or a fun toy, but jaguar cars are cheap so i could buy a whole car the same for about $1000 that i can take the plates and tags off but then ill just have to take it for certification for the engine and trans.

for now i just want it running mint then ill sort out the trans then drive shaft then it will at least be driveable and going and i can see what it goes like then decide its future. was thinking if i get stuck with it ill move houses and towns and get away from all these people and start a new life and have this sitting in a garage and it can be my toy to work on, i love working on it so far its great so much better then trying to deal with a stupid turbo efi thing these days. im just annoyed because i have no vehicle that drives so stuck at home all the time i want to at least be able to get out and about
 
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