Originally Posted by joe_padavano
I applaud you for not giving in to the booooooring SBC swap. I'm working on a Northstar into an E30 BMW. What are you doing for the water pump? That seems to be the biggest problem with using the FWD N* in a RWD application. The water pump ends up right where the master cylinder wants to be.
I'm not gonna lie...the N* scares the crap outta me. LOTS of stuff to break...twice as much as an LSx...not to mention the 2-piece block
and the softer, more pourous cast of the pre-00 northstars. (I have a '95 4.0L) There's a reason people use 350's a lot...they're like a big boy's erector set. They're stupid-simple to work on, you can do a LOT with them, and they're vastly more forgiving for someone that might not know as much as they should (like me. haha)
But for cooling, I'm already planning on a remote electric setup. Although they don't have them on their site, CHRFab either has a conversion kit, or is working on one. I dunno if they have it for sale yet, but I'll be doing a remote setup either way as the Z's engine bay will be at a premium for space at the firewall with the northstar.
You can get a remote electric pump from Jegs, Dedenbear, CSR and others. Another advantage of using a remote electric pump is that you can wire it through an attenuator or voltage controller, put that sucker in the dash, and control your cooling from the drivers seat.
Running a little hotter than you'd like at idle or in heavy traffic? Just bump the knob up a bit and increase flow.
Also, potentially cooler temps for those 1/4 passes....and maybe even a couple more mpg's.
Of course, you'd need the requisite temp gauge as well as a pressure gauge...but you could eliminate the thermostat in the coolant passage and get the above effects.
...of course, not TOO low or the ECM will be in a perpetual warm up mode in these motors.
I'm still waiting for my service manuals to arrive before I know what I can and can't do yet. I've got a LOT of learning to do.