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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2003, 05:32 PM
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Calling all tri carb experts

I've got a 327 that came with a tri carb set up. I had a miss I was trying to find and discovered #1 plug was black(rich),all others were normal except for #7 was a little dark. I replaced plug wires,plugs,checked compression, and same thing. I had a 4 barrel set up laying around so I took off the tri carb and went with the 4 barrel. Guess what, everythings ok now. So the problem is with the tri carb set up. I've heard there are little aluminum plugs under the body of the carbs that can leak. Any ideas? Thanks!

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Old 07-14-2003, 06:44 PM
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You did`t say what kind of carbs. they were. The only carb that I know of with that problem is the Q-jet, they have two soft plugs in the bottom of the bowl that are prone to leak.

There are a lot of diff. 3-2 setups.

Troy
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Old 07-14-2003, 07:05 PM
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These are rochester 2 barrel,no tags on carbs,looks like 60's gm 2 barrel carbs. I did pull the top off and they are clean inside. I also have new fuel filters and am running a mech. fuel pump with about 5 lbs of pressure.
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Old 07-14-2003, 10:32 PM
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Is`t it set up to idle only on the center carb>
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Old 07-15-2003, 12:16 AM
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The 60's style tri carb set up used the center carb as the primary with air/idle screws and the front and back as the secondary with no air/idle screws. I talked to the guy who put this setup together and he said this is built like a 50's tri carb setup where all the carbs have air/idle screws but the center carb is the primary just like the 60's setup. I have adjusted the idle screws till i'm blue in the face with no luck. It seems as if one of the carbs is leaking internally but this is just a guess.
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Old 07-15-2003, 07:21 AM
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Did you run it that way? Did you try to adjust idle on all three carbs.If you did thats probably whats wrong.

HTH,
Good Luck,
Troy,
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Old 07-15-2003, 07:34 AM
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That's your problem. You can adjust those screws all you want and you will never get it to run right. Not only is there an internal idle circuit in those carbs, which you can't adjust out but the butterflies aren't designed to completely seal. The correct end carbs for a Rochester 2G setup will have no internal idle circuits, the base plate will not have adjustment screws, and the carb will have thicker butterflies that seal completely.

Correct tri-power Rochester 2G's are expensive when and if you can find them. I bought a matched set (all three) off a factory tri-power equipped 348 Chevy on e-bay about a year ago and they weren't cheap. What you can do is have your end carbs converted. There are a couple places that will do it for you, but IMHO it would be easier and cheaper if you just order the correct base plates and butterflies, plug the internal air passages, and go from there. These aren't really complex carbs and it shouldn't be that hard to do.


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Old 07-15-2003, 07:40 AM
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Centerline is right, those base plats will never work right.
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Old 07-15-2003, 08:19 AM
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This link will point you in the right direction for the parts you need to convert you're end carbs correctly.

http://www.vintagespeed.com/carbs.htm

Page down till you get to the Rochester 2G section and the conversion kits are outlined there.


Good luck.


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Old 07-15-2003, 10:47 AM
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Hey thanks for all the help.
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Old 07-15-2003, 10:59 AM
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Hey thanks for all the help.
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