No... a spring inside the lifter holds the internal piston up gently until it fills with oil which provides more solid support and automatic adjustment thereafter with the engine running...
With each cylinder being worked on having the lifters on the base circle of the cam, just gently wiggle the pushrod up and down until all free clearance disappears while tightening the nut... add a half turn more tighter... lock down the nut there if that kind of nut... Or leave nut there if friction nut...
Otherwise, it's different length pushrods... Hopefully, OP Billybuck's engine just works OK as is with stock adjustment...
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